Bigger is better for longevity.

Id rather go up in the rear because its harder on a chain to wrap around a smaller front sprocket

 

I did the -1 front. Works great. Wouldn't change it back for the street that's for sure.

 

What happens to the mileage when you go -1 in the front?

 

Lastly, safety and longevity is more important to me than speed and power....and my 2nd question is in regards to chain pitch choice.

"Is it worth it to go to a 520 conversion vs. stock 525 pitch" I love to put a lot of mileage on my bikes and take long nationwide trips. And that is why durability is very important for me.

Stick with 525. Unless you're racing or have a dedicated track bike, it's not an "upgrade" for you.

A friend of mine just had his 520 rip on a 600. Thankfully it didn't hurt him or anyone else, just put a nice hole through the crank case cover and leaked oil.

Given your set of priorities, stick with 525 and steel sprockets.

 

Poor maintenance? Improper install? Cheap chain? Rain rider? Old chain?

I need more details. I've seen 530's break on rider's.

Most people on here with 14 and below R1's are using 520. I use nothing but WD-40 and replace it once a year. Street and track use. Mostly street.

 

Instead of focusing on tooth count, you need to decide what gear ratio you're trying to accomplish.

With the old bike, compare the stock gear ratio to the -1 you did and it's ratio.

With the new bike, look at the chart and try to accomplish that same gear ratio increase.

The bigger the number, the more low end.

https://www.motomummy.com/Final_Drive_Ratio.html

More in depth: http://www.gearingcommander.com

 

Instead of focusing on tooth count, you need to decide what gear ratio you're trying to accomplish.

With the old bike, compare the stock gear ratio to the -1 you did and it's ratio.

With the new bike, look at the chart and try to accomplish that same gear ratio increase.

The bigger the number, the more low end.

https://www.motomummy.com/Final_Drive_Ratio.html

More in depth: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

Excellent info....THANK YOU.....ONE2

 

I did a -1/+2 520 conversion(AFAM 15T/43T Steel sprockets) on my M, works great.

 

I went -1/+2 on mine and love it. I stayed with the stock 525p chain.

-John

 

My tenative plan is to:
Go down 1 to a 15 tooth in front
and up 4 to a 45 tooth in the rear.

Staying with the stock pitch of 525.

Stock gearing ratio is 2.563
It will now change to the above set up as 3.0

I am interested to see how well this would work on the streets.
I counting on the fact there's a 6th gear for the Interstate travels would be sufficient.

Please share your thoughts to this set-up.
Is it a little too much ?

Thanks R1 Team

 

My tenative plan is to:
Go down 1 to a 15 tooth in front
and up 4 to a 45 tooth in the rear.

Seems a bit extreme to me, but I suppose it depends on what you want. I did-1/+2 for a while on my 2003 R1 but thought it was just crazy.
Also I would not go with the 15/45 ratio because the ratio divides equally 15/44 or 15/46 would be better for chain and sprocket life.

 

I ran a 3.0 ratio on my 09 15/45 versus the stock 2.71 ratio(17-47) and loved it. only time I disliked it was longer highway trips. but I never bothered changing it. My brother owns it now and is running a 41 or 42 rear which puts it in the 2.76 range.

 

3.0 ratio from your experience seams kind of high for cruising at 80 or 90 on the interstate.

Thank you, I may decide to lower it little bit to around 2.8 ratio since I do travel a lot from state to state.

My issue is not having that long 1st and 2nd for in town use. I love being able to use all the gears in their power band.

Maybe a 15 in the front and 43 in the rear?

Please share your thoughts and experiences.

Thank you R1 Team

 

The 2.8 ratio would have been perfect on the street. 3.0 was perfect for track and around town.

 

I didn't notice any gas mileage difference. The change is subtle and since 5th and 6th are still too tall for legal road speeds I don't think I'm ever in them unless doing a long hwy cruise which is almost never in my case.


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Same as I've done on all of the gearing threads, I'd point you toward Gearing Commander. The '15 R1 is already loaded in their list, but the redline is a little low. Move redline to 14,200, input your tire size, and away you go. It'll tell you everything you need to know about what speed you'll go in what gear, what it'll do to your wheelbase, and the effect it'll have on chain wear.

 

There's a lot of gearing threads so I'll post my question here for my 2009 R1.

The fastest speed limit in Hawaii is 55 mph. Right now I'm geared at -2/-1 3.07

Will -2/0 3.1 be too aggressive?

Edit: I just want the pointing and squirting fun. I'm always in B mode on the twisty stuff.

 

What island are you on?

 

Once again, I can't tell you how much I like I the -1/+2 - stock 525p chain for street! It's PERFECT IMO!

-John

 

You can't go bigger than a 47 tooth sprocket for Marchesini wheels. They are hard to find.

-2/-1 3.07 is nearly equivalent to -1/+2 3.06

You all should really speak gear ratio rather than tooth count.

Saying minus this and plus that can be anything from 2.7 to 3.9 gear ratio.

 

What brand -1 countershaft sprockets are available in 525? Part #s?

 

SUPERLITE (#21607R) 525 Pitch Chromoly-Steel Front Sprocket - YAMAHA - 525 Pitch Sprockets - YZF-R1 / YZF-R1M 2015-2016 - Yamaha - STREET

-John

 

Try the -1 in the front. It will make the bike more driveable around the city for sure. Going two up in the rear will make it even easier to leave a stop light for example but remember that as you go in that direction you make all the gears shorter. You go too far and you're shifting all the time. I think the gearbox is closely spaced between gears as it is so you might not like them being any shorter. I think 3,4,5,6 are closer spaced than 1,2. Makes sense when you have tons of power through a small motorcycle tire. You don't want the bike spinning up constantly thats for sure.

For the street its probably not going to matter much but on the track you might not want to be shifting constantly either.

The bike has tons of power and once you're rolling you will be into the power pretty quick. You dont want first and second too short as you're going to be power wheeling like crazy. For me I want to balance acceleration with drivablity. On the street its not a huge issue but on the track I like to be able to roll the throttle to the stop with the best forward drive and the least amount of wheelie. The computer helps here with the LIFT control so you can be a bit lazier but on other bikes I've geared up depending on the track as the shorter gears gave worse lap times for me as I might be in between gears at different parts of the lap or had issues like wheeling.

 

I went to a 15 (-1)front with a 42 (+1) rear 525 pitch to keep the chain length pretty the same as stock. I haven't ridden it with that gearing yet but I think 1st gear was a bit tall for my tastes so this should be a good compromise.

 

Exactly. People neglect to take into account wheelbase when changing sprockets. If you're looking for a long or shorter wheelbase, might not be a big deal swapping sprockets in the direction you're looking for.

15/42 is pretty spot-on for stock wheelbase, and it's a sweet gearing for my local track. I also tried 15/44, which is also basically stock wheelbase*, but topped out slightly early at the track. Otherwise felt great, and made parking lot riding a lot more civilized.

Edit: I didn't try 15/44, it was 15/45, going to super short gearing for better low speed throttle control. It worked, but was just way too short. Have to remove two links from the chain with this to get the wheelbase right. 15/44 would not work for stock wheelbase, as you can't remove an odd number of links.

 

Just ordered Renthal 525 sprockets: 15T front and 43T rear. Optimistic about the outcome based on everything I've read about -1+2 and the 2015 feeling like it's geared for 200mph in stock fashion.

 

Awesome, please let us know how the new set up turns out.
Hoping for the best !

 

I went down 1 on the front when the dealer had my bike. I just got a chance to sort of ride today (still only 40 degrees). Long and the short of it is that it is a huge improvement and makes leaving a stop light way better in every way. i dont feel like i'm abusing my clutch nearly as much.

 

anyone having to install a speedo healer or does the new r1 adjust with the speed sensor

 

The wheel sensors run the speedo, healer isn't needed.