The best advice I can give you is to follow the procedure outlined in the service manual for the machine. When I check the gap, I roll the cams until the lobes I'm checking look like Micky mouse ears from the side of the motor (intake at 10 o'clock, exhaust at 2 o'clock). Also be sure to use the correct assembly lube. Good luck.

 

Yes i do know that. Im using service manual but still cant get gap i will do it again today and i will let know Thanks SO much

 

Generally, when I do valve jobs, I always get a set of the smallest shims possible. I install all of them, reassemble, and check my clearances for each valve. This tells me just exactly what size shim I will need to replace it with, based on whatever the largest size feeler I'm able to clear it with. You take the size you get from the feeler, subtract the middle of the range that you're trying to hit from it (for your case, 0.16mm intake, 0.25mm exhaust), and add the difference to the size of the shim you have already in. Find a shim around that value that won't cause you to be out of clearance specs.
If you cannot clear any feelers with the smallest shim, you're looking at needing to rebuild the head OR your marks aren't lined up correctly due to user error or one of the cams jumping a tooth. If your K mark is lined up on the bottom, check up top that your sprocket punch marks, c and e, are facing outwards (page 3-6). If they're facing inwards, rotate the crank another 360. If they STILL don't line up, you jumped a tooth on one of your cams. Refer to page 5-19 on how to install the cams correctly.
To answer your question, the crankshaft rotates 720 degrees to complete a camshaft rotation of 360 degrees.

 

Did you put everything back in how it came out? Meaning:

1) Did you put the same cam cap back where it came out (the exact same location).

2) Did you put each cam cover back where the came from?

3) Did you put each shim back where they can from)

4) Did you measure shims correctly? (This can be tricky)

If you did not pay attention to any one of the topics above, this could cause your adjustments to be way off.

 

Hello there im off to my garage now and in couple of hours i let know...

Question
1 YES
2 YES
3 i change almost all shims, or swapped places
4 i hope so... I mean only 1st and 2nd valve needed on 1st cylinder adjusting rest was ok but i wanted to make biger gap i dont know what gone wrong i did valve clearance few Times but this crossplane makes me crazy

 

Hello there im off to my garage now and in couple of hours i let know...

Question
1 YES
2 YES
3 i change almost all shims, or swapped places
4 i hope so... I mean only 1st and 2nd valve needed on 1st cylinder adjusting rest was ok but i wanted to make biger gap i dont know what gone wrong i did valve clearance few Times but this crossplane makes me crazy

The crossplane is no different from any other inline 4. The only difference is timing.

Are you sure you measured gap at TDC?

One trick to find TDC is stick something inside on top of the piston and watch it rise and fall. TDC will be the transition between rise and fall from the highest point.

Not measuring at TDC will throw you off too; by a lot.

 

Hi, i did everything once again and there is some gap, but very small now what im gona do is put back all shims back to oryginal if i find my valve plan, now my Question is do i put camshafts in right way? I mean i start from exhaust, stretching chain and count 30 pins then i put intake, then i tighten all bolts but im not too sure if its ok

 

Usually for the step you're talking about, I mark a line across the camshaft and the chain before any disassembly, so during reassembly I just line everything up.
But from what you're saying, it sounds like it's an acceptable way to reassemble. Just remember to work your way up when you're tightening down the camshaft caps. Step your way up, Tighten all the bolts in the order listed in the service manual, but start like 5 Nm less than what the torque spec is. Once they're all tightened, step up to 2.5 Nm less than spec and go through tightening in the order listed. Then repeat with the actual torque spec. This way you don't overly stress any of the components. It's probably not necessary to do these extra steps, but I always do them just to keep the stresses lower and not risk deforming anything. Takes only a minute or two longer.

Looking at your profile picture, I raise you this in response.

 

Usually for the step you're talking about, I mark a line across the camshaft and the chain before any disassembly, so during reassembly I just line everything up.
But from what you're saying, it sounds like it's an acceptable way to reassemble. Just remember to work your way up when you're tightening down the camshaft retainers. Step your way up, Tighten all the bolts in the order listed in the service manual, but start like 20 lb ft less than what the torque spec is. Once they're all tightened, step up to 15 less than spec and go through tightening in the order listed. Then repeat for 10, 5, and the actual torque spec. This way you don't overly stress any of the components. It's probably not necessary to do these extra steps, but I always do them just to keep the stresses lower and not risk deforming anything.

The cam caps call for 10nm don't they? So, 7.2'#.

 

I found this

Timing marks

Hello, My name is Eddid, I am new to this group this is my first post. I'm so thrilled to be a part of this group. I've always been an r1 fan and always dreamed of owning an R1. I recently I bought a 2009 R1 and I've been having nothing but problems. I know Yamahas are not like that cause I've...

www.r1-forum.com

Bacchus40 i dont understand what Is he saying about dead on

 

I found this

Timing marks

Hello, My name is Eddid, I am new to this group this is my first post. I'm so thrilled to be a part of this group. I've always been an r1 fan and always dreamed of owning an R1. I recently I bought a 2009 R1 and I've been having nothing but problems. I know Yamahas are not like that cause I've...

www.r1-forum.com

Bacchus40 i dont understand what Is he saying about dead on

‘Dead on‘ is him referring to the dots/punch marks ‘perfectly’ aligning with the gasket surface Of the head. If you were to get down on your knee and align your eyesight looking along the plane of the gasket surface of the head, you will be able to see that these ‘dots’ are ‘dead on’ in alignment with that surface.
I believe the exhaust cam dot would be positioned perfectly at 9 ‘o’clock while the intake cam dot would be positioned perfectly at the 3 o’clock position

 

@bacchus40 figured I'd tag you since I don't see a post by you here.

 

Good news iv found my old valve plan example i had 1.92 mm shim on 1st intake and replaced with 1.85 because 0.07 only went it where should be 0.11-0.21mm so i guess i did measurings ok. So my problem is timing...? Mine are Just below head i dont see diff way to fit them once they are sitting on Marks. Ill try put old shims back and well see

 

Ok i surrender today i did again and nope...

I cant get this ex right

Ill give a try tomorow again

 

I'd have installed the cct and spun that through by hand. I don't think that is off by a tooth. More like the chain needs some tension. A trip around and she'd straighten up. That's just me though.

 

I think so too, but I am not an expert. Defo not a Whole tooth off.

 

AFAIK pics are correct, as long as you can button it all up that way..

the marks are barely visible when looking at the head from it side, at plain level. They're not 'underneath' the horizon of the head surface.

Unfortunately because of the pandemic and restrictions up here we pretty much boxed everything up till this coming winter. i cant be much help on finer detail till we get to it ourselves.

 

Noo good i think i may take bike to proper garage, my bad that i didnt Mark the chain, i only Got time on weekends so yesterday another fail and after i put everythink back together still no clearance gap.. Could my chain be streched? Once i master this cams i would like to make a video tutorial as cant find non on the web

 

my bad that i didnt Mark the chain

Marking the chain isn't necessary. It's just a lazy/clever man's way of making sure he lines everything up without having to check up on anything else. It's entirely possible to defeat this trick if someone were to rotate the crankshaft between your camshaft removal and reinstallation. If your bottom K mark is correct and your top cap marks are correct, you should be okay for reassembly, unless the marks are completely off. Your bike was running before your attempt at the valve adjustment, so I doubt this is the case.

Could my chain be streched?

Maybe, but if it was stretched, the chain tensioner would catch most of it and you'd be a slight alignment off. You wouldn't be registering 0 clearances on everything. The timing chain check can be found on Page 5-18 and 5-19. You can probably make an evaluation based on the information presented there, but if you want to no-brain it, just replace the chain. The GSX-R I worked on for its first valve adjustment had almost 100k miles (my favorite 3 words: not. my. bike.) We didn't bother with replacing the chain and it was fine. YMMV.

Quick sanity checks:

1. Did you disconnect any of the gears from the shafts during this entire operation that would destroy your frame of reference as to where exactly the piston/camshaft position is?
2. For the picture you uploaded last week with the camshafts and the chain, was the chain front of the bike (exhaust side of the cams) tight and the back of the bike (intake side) loose? The exhaust side is supposed to be tight, so if it wasn't, that could be why the cam marking rotated below the surface.
3. The no clearance gap, is that on all cylinders? If you're in alignment (K mark and punch marks), have you done the actual rotation of 105 degrees before checking #1? Page 3-7

 

i wont be re-using the stock chain.. doing a full refresh so anything that has wear / tear of any
substantial form, its a gonner. Yes, depending on mileage, the chain most likely has some
stretching from when it was brand new. Hence why i'm replacing mine

 

If you have no valve clearance, your measurements were wrong. The cam chain has nothing to do with the valve clearance. If the lobes are at 10 and 2 you can check valve clearance on that cylinder. If you are on the acceleration ramp or in the valve duration, you won't have valve clearance because the cam lobe is engaged with the bucket. If you are at 10 and 2 and have 0 clearance, you have the wrong shim installed.

After you measure your valve lash and replace your shims, when you reinstall everything, after you get your marks lined up, spin the motor through a few revolutions by hand. This insures proper piston to valve clearance and you can verify the timing marks with tension on the cam chain.

Or, take it to a garage. That seems to be where this is going anyhow.

Again, good luck.

 

If you have no valve clearance, your measurements were wrong. The cam chain has nothing to do with the valve clearance. If the lobes are at 10 and 2 you can check valve clearance on that cylinder. If you are on the acceleration ramp or in the valve duration, you won't have valve clearance because the cam lobe is engaged with the bucket. If you are at 10 and 2 and have 0 clearance, you have the wrong shim installed.

After you measure your valve lash and replace your shims, when you reinstall everything, after you get your marks lined up, spin the motor through a few revolutions by hand. This insures proper piston to valve clearance and you can verify the timing marks with tension on the cam chain.

Or, take it to a garage. That seems to be where this is going anyhow.

Again, good luck.

Respect man, ill try without chain

 

i just caught up to what the actual discussion is.. valve clearance check-ups can be cone
w/out the chain in place, you can manually rotate the cams with a tool. Thats how we
checked mine. if you're getting no clearance at all that sounds very odd, it would mean
they're all stupid tight and you'd likely not even be able to start the bike in the 1st place.

whatever method you use to test for valve clearance, it sounds like you're doing it wrong.

on 1st glance of the thread, thought you were having a hard time with timing marks, etc.

 

Ok back with some update im so confused so i better ask

Let Me show you how i do

Step one
Mark K with surface -

Camshaft on mark EX (dot) but its not siting well

And Mark EX looks like this when i hold and let go camshaft

Caps on

Starting from midle 4 bolts

Now the more i tight down the more ex Mark Goes below head and chain be comes slack

Now can i rotate this Camshaft anticlockwise so it will match head surface and stretch chain and then do intake?

 

Install both cams. Line up your marks. Install cam caps. Install cct. Spin through a couple of revs by hand. Verify timing marks. Button her up. Ride happy.