Very nice write up!!!

 

A++++++++nice!!!

 

Have to agree nice write up. They look sick. I've got the same bike, love it and it looks like I'll be purchasing Gilles rear sets as well. On another note how do you like the Corbin seat?

 

very nice write up and the rearsets look great I'm sure you'll like the adjustability of them...most adjustable out there.

 

Corbin seat is very nice, HOWEVER, if I could do it again, I would have purchased the Yamaha Gel seat, it's cheaper and provides more grip on the cheeks. I like it though, cost a little too much IMO. I rode about 140 miles today with the sets, I like them very much, takes some getting used to the different feel as these are my first aftermarket sets but I've got them at the total neutral setting and I'll be playing with them next time out. Far as I could tell, it felt like I had more grip on the tank, but that may have just been my imagination, I think as they are in their neutral setting the are a bit higher than the stock setup in their upper mounts.

It's all good!

Eye candy...

BEFORE>>>

AFTER>>>

 

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!

That is very good presentation you did :bow and they look amazing:jump

I think i am going to buy the same (in black-gold), because during turning i can't support my outside knee on the fuel tank properly, so i think they will help with some adjustment.

How did you see them on the road? Had to go out many times to bring them at your liking? Do they have good traction with the boots?

 

They do have excellent traction compared to the stock pegs, honestly I set them at their neutral setting and I have not adjusted them yet! They give me plenty of height over the stockers, but they do take some getting used to, they feel a little shorter, the brake peg is definitely a lot shorter so that takes some getting used to, and the shifter with its roller bearing is a unique feel that you'll also get used to after a weekend of rides.

I think they're outstanding, I did my first track day over the 3/4 July weekend, here's a vid!

http://www.vimeo.com/13218616

 

Very Nice. Are you clutching on your upshifts? It looked a bit unrefined. Maybe just a result of the getting accustomed to the the linkage?

 

Yes I am clutching all upshifts (and downshifts), I think I need to adjust the linkage a little to bring the shifter down some because I feel I'm having to push up quite a bit to get it into gear. Very easily done with these sets though! I was also trying to decided whether or not to go GP shift, eventually I will get the Dynojet speed shifting system but for now I'm just staying conventional.

Here's another vid from the 16th at VIR FULL with NESBA, great time, and again, these sets were great.

http://www.vimeo.com/13443895

 

So how easy is to adjust the rearsets. You need tools, or you can do it by hand?

 

Your next track day you may want to try not using the clutch on your up-shifts. Apply some pressure to the shifter, then slightly roll off the throttle, the next gear will engage real nice and smooth and you can get right back into the throttle. I think that you will find that the bike doesn't unsettle quite as much as it provides for a quicker shift, reducing the weight shift that is caused by the larger reduction in torque applied to the drive-train when using the clutch.

The technique is very similar to the ignition cut used in racing technologies for fast shifts.

 

4->2, well I have heard of this but I thought it'd be tough on the gearbox, I've also heard of people clutchless downshifting but I'm not trying to tear up my bike or fear of a very expensive gearbox replacement just for a .01 second. I don't generally shift in turns with my current setup so I didn't think it was a big deal, is there any other benefit in doing this clutchless shift?

Jimis - VERY easy to adjust, one allen wrench on top, you loosen the pivot bolt, adjust, tighten bolt, DONE, would probably take 5 seconds per rear set.

 

The technique is not hard on the gearbox. In fact, properly executed it reduces wear on the clutch and clutch basket. Lets do a quick run down of how a constant mesh gear box works:

1. All gears are constantly engaged
2. There are two shafts (main shaft and lay shaft) each holding a gear, the difference between the gears gives the drive ratio.
3. Gears are engaged by a dog. A dog is located on the main shaft and is moved by the shifting mechanism. The dog selects the gear by mating into slots or grooves on the gear, locking that gear to the main shaft.
4. When you shift between gears, disengaging (pulling the clutch lever) the clutch removes the load from the transmission by separating the engine from the gear box. This enables the gear and the dog to synchronize their RPM's.
5. When the clutch is re-engaged (letting out the clutch lever) the friction material must then absorb the difference in energy between the engine and the drive train. This energy is converted to heat and wears out the clutch.

With a motorcycles sequential ratchet shifting mechanism, when you preload the shift linkage you are preparing the dogs to mate and synchronize with the next gear. When you slightly roll off the throttle you reduce the load on the engine and drive train. That slight reduction in load allows the dog and gear to fully synchronize and mate. Now there is no transfer of energy to the clutch and no additional wear to the entire clutch assembly. The dogs and gears are intended to synchronize so when properly executed, there is also no additional wear to the area of the gears and dogs that engage. The teeth of the gears will never see any additional wear as they are always meshed.

Here is a really simple diagram:

 

Awesome write up, just put mine in yesterday. Had Gilles on the 06 and again on the 09. Wanted to try something different, but most other brands don't have the capability of mounting the Graves low mount bracket. I'm glad I got these, making adjustments are f*ckin' cake. :thumbup

**If you've got the Graves Low Mount, you might have to bore the holes out some on the bracket for it to be able to mount up to the Gilles rearset.**

 

Nice toy, I had Gilles on my ex R1'07, 09 looks pretty the same except hangers. Be sure to set up rear master cylinder adapter (I didn't do that in fact when installed them on 07 and overheated my rear disc..) As for the GYTR gel seat it's awesome. I put it on my 09 - thicker, more comfortable and my a** seems to be cooler too Cheers, M.

 

doesnt the gear shift rod connect from the left than the right ?

 

That's if you want standard shift.

 

Definitely an A+ write up. I have a set on my 08 R1!! I love the Gilles. Only thing is I didn't pay $500+ for them. I paid mid $400s. Check around and you can get them for a good price. Just a fyi!!

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys, I know prices have come down since I did this write up but even still, the install is the same! Great rearsets though, can't complain about anything (except the price), but I have a 2006 R1 now and I'm aiming to get a set for this one to!

I'm glad you all like the write up!

 

Wondering if you guys can help....

I have these rearsets on my 09 Gixxer, and installed no problem. I just got a set for my 09 R1, but i'm stuck figuring out the gear lever attachment.

The instructions are somewhat vague; which normally isnt a problem, but the pics accompanying the instructions dont appear to be an 09-12R1 so i'm looking at the pics and saying "my bike dont look like that"

The wording with the instruction doesnt help 'that' much either when looking at pics that dont seem to be the same model of bike.

Anyway, the instruction says:
-"loosen lower back motor attachment, fit in screw from right hand side"

Which one of these bolts (above) is the 'back motor attachment'?

'A' - is where the current (Woodcraft) gearshift/lever was attached, but the gilles has an adapter (see next pic) that wont fit in the same spot using the same bolt from the woodcraft's. Also i cant take the bolt off and feed it from the right side (motor side point out), cus there's not enough clearance

here's the lever with the adapter:

The rest of the rearset kit is perfect (like Gilles stuff usually is), i just cant figure out the lever.

(Oh if you notice some stuff missing, its cus my bike was a racebike and was stripped)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

That's strange, mine is bolted to "A" in your picture, but it seems you have a different design, and with that spacer, it looks to fit into position "C". I'd look into this with the manufacturer or try Googling this for a better tutorial.

 

Strange, my 09 Gilles gear lever looks different. Exactly the same as you pictured I had on my ex 07 R1..

See yourself:

http://www.gillestooling.com/uploads/manual/VCR_Y02_manual.pdf

:beer

 

I encountered a couple of issues with my vcr38gt rearsets.

First one which was a huge surprise is that one of the collars that sits between the brake cylinder holder and the cylinder itself doesn't actually fit inside the drilled hole of the rearset. Precision engineering? Not in my case...

The second is not so much an issue but a difference to OPs install. For me it was not possible to attach the top bolt of the heat shield to the right rearset and also attach the rearsets' top mount to the frame. The plastic heat shield does not allow this but according to the instruction manual you are only supposed to attach the lower bolt to the rearset.

 

The collars for the rear master are an interference fit, mine were the same. As you torque them down they will slide in there no probs. :thumbup

Not sure about the heat shield, I ditched that ASAP :lol