[sss r1]

first check for servo motor connections .
it might be faulty fuel sender also.

 

[rick71]

first check for servo motor connections .
it might be faulty fuel sender also.

OK... I'll check that out. I actually have the gas tank not attached right now and perhaps that is the issue. I'm going to try and build your circuit board anyways because I have an aftermarket 4-2-1 pipe and the servo is completely useless. So thanks for the post on how to do it.

 

[marcaztls]

I actually have the gas tank not attached right now and perhaps that is the issue.

:fact

 

[rick71]

:fact

Can you be more specific in what you are trying to say to me? Are you saying the gas tank has to be attached or I will get an ECU fault code which would result in the tach jumping to 7K every 10 seconds?

 

[marcaztls]

Can you be more specific in what you are trying to say to me? Are you saying the gas tank has to be attached or I will get an ECU fault code which would result in the tach jumping to 7K every 10 seconds?

Yes mate, that's exactly it

 

[rick71]

Yes mate, that's exactly it

OK thanks... cause I just built the bike from a bunch of parts and was trying to just get the starter to turn over and didn't think the gas tank would have to be connected in order to do an ignition/start test.

I'm off to buy these parts for this setup... thanks again for posting this info. The servo really irritated me how it just sat there doing nothing. The bike has to be as minimal and as clean as possible and this is one more part I can toss out.

 

[pacolops]

Has anybody tested the circuit with any simulation program??

p.d. sorry for my english!!:saw:

 

[josecampos47]

ive just made the 3rd method looks exactly as the one lion made and tested it and it dosent work being studying this damn thing for a while and still no luck do they make a after market on for the 99 r1 cause getting tired of the damn tach jumping any way if someones got the info that would be awesome:saw:

 

[sss r1]

ive just made the 3rd method looks exactly as the one lion made and tested it and it dosent work being studying this damn thing for a while and still no luck do they make a after market on for the 99 r1 cause getting tired of the damn tach jumping any way if someones got the info that would be awesome:saw:

did u check that the transistor is connected the right way ?

yes , ther is an aftermarket unit for 99 .it called "sams servo sub" , i think graves makes one too.

 

[R1_Demon]

subscribed

 

[josecampos47]

transistor

yeah followed the diagram and everything still nothing has anyone hooked a mulitimeter to the finished product and see what the readings should be ?:saw:

 

[Ryans79]

Use post 7 & 8, I've done same on my 99 R1 and it's working great since I put it.

 

[josecampos47]

ex up

ive done 7 and 8 to the exact diagram and made it like they said and wrote is there something else that needs to be done do i need to disconnect the battery or remove a fuse to erase the faluts first or is just connect it and it goes away cause i have done it all :saw:

 

[sss r1]

ive done 7 and 8 to the exact diagram and made it like they said and wrote is there something else that needs to be done do i need to disconnect the battery or remove a fuse to erase the faluts first or is just connect it and it goes away cause i have done it all :saw:

read posts 31 and 32 to see if the diode polarity and the transistor are connected the right way .
maybe the transistor or diode are defective, try to change them.

show a pic of the circuit u made , this will make things easier.

 

[Ryans79]

ive done 7 and 8 to the exact diagram and made it like they said and wrote is there something else that needs to be done do i need to disconnect the battery or remove a fuse to erase the faluts first or is just connect it and it goes away cause i have done it all :saw:

SSR1 is right just check the Doide and the transistor if they are not defective or soldered in the right way. Not need remove to remove the battery or any fuse. another thing you can check, see wether the exup wiring part is not cut elsewhere. Your RPM jumps on what number ?

 

[HKr1]

the next circuit is more complicated ,but it works just fine . no error codes or dancing needle.

as u can see , it uses 5 components , which makes it a bit hard to assemble without any PCB (printed circuit board) , but its duable.
the parts dont cost much (less then 10$ ) and u can find all of them in your local electronic shop (or order from digkey , farnell , ebay etc...)

Dont know if I asked before, or seen it posted yet. Whats does this one read in Diag for open and closed points, does it cycle quick and smooth between both?
Just wondering

 

[sss r1]

Dont know if I asked before, or seen it posted yet. Whats does this one read in Diag for open and closed points, does it cycle quick and smooth between both?
Just wondering

the circuit is designed to cycle between the open and close points for approx 2.5 sec .
is a bit too fast for the newer r1s , so , for newer bikes its better to change both 1.5k resistors to 2k .
i dont have new gen r1 , so i cant tell u how it reads in the diagnostics (if it actually works as it should).

 

[iamnotamonkey]

hi, i'm curious about this one (apparently, it works...?):

http://ocmoto.com/index.php?topic=15636.0

as far as i can figure:

black wire- power to motor 0v/10v
red wire- power to motor (opposite direction) 0v/10v
orange wire- +5v (pot power)
green wire- GND (pot power)
white wire- out (from pot... this value should be the one that affects how the ecu decides to position the servo motor?)

i have an r6 (don't hate me please) and, after a lot of messing around, it seems the wires on the harness are the same as the r1. are the wires inside the exup unit the same too?

it seems that the white wire should never be able to receive more than 5v, but in this setup, it will always receive 10v (when black wire is powered). no?

i also don't understand why the orange wire is used if it is supplying power to the pot. this means that both ends of the capacitor are receiving power...
it's been a long time since i have studied or used any of this crap... so i could just be missing something...

am i misunderstanding/mislabelling the wires to the pot?

i have made the version in this thread (this thread, not the one i posted for review) and hope to use it, but i really want to have a bit better understanding before i plug it in...

also, is the last post saying i should switch the 1.5k resistors to 2k for an 07?
i just saw that post after i finished...
thanks a lot.

 

[sss r1]

hi, i'm curious about this one (apparently, it works...?):

http://ocmoto.com/index.php?topic=15636.0

as far as i can figure:

black wire- power to motor 0v/10v
red wire- power to motor (opposite direction) 0v/10v
orange wire- +5v (pot power)
green wire- GND (pot power)
white wire- out (from pot... this value should be the one that affects how the ecu decides to position the servo motor?)

i have an r6 (don't hate me please) and, after a lot of messing around, it seems the wires on the harness are the same as the r1. are the wires inside the exup unit the same too?

it seems that the white wire should never be able to receive more than 5v, but in this setup, it will always receive 10v (when black wire is powered). no?

i also don't understand why the orange wire is used if it is supplying power to the pot. this means that both ends of the capacitor are receiving power...
it's been a long time since i have studied or used any of this crap... so i could just be missing something...

am i misunderstanding/mislabelling the wires to the pot?

i have made the version in this thread (this thread, not the one i posted for review) and hope to use it, but i really want to have a bit better understanding before i plug it in...

also, is the last post saying i should switch the 1.5k resistors to 2k for an 07?
i just saw that post after i finished...
thanks a lot.

the motor power wires can be +10v or 0v , the voltage is changed , depends in what direction the ecu wants to turn the motor . once it reaches that point , both wires will be 0v (to stop the motor)
in my circuit the orange wire is not used , because the output recieves voltage fron the motor wires . in regular exup motor , the potentiometer is separated from the motor , so it needs independant supply (the orange wiresupplies power for all other pots on the bike , like the tps etc) .

i cant tell much about that circuit in r6 forum , as the resistor got 3 wires connected to it , are the white and black wires are shorted or what ? - bad diagram.

 

[iamnotamonkey]

sss r1, thanks for replying. i have come back to this thread again and again for many months (since i got my bike and began thinking about a full system), i really appreciate your input and i'm sure many others do too.

yes. in that r6 circuit, the white (out) and black (motor power 1) wires are shorted. they connect via a 4.7k resistor to the positive side of a 470uf capacitor and the orange wire (+5v) is connected directly to the negative side of the capacitor.

also, i wonder about your circuit, the 2 resistors and capacitor function as a voltage divider for the white/out wire and protect it from receiving more than 5v, right? and the green/ground wire - am i right to assume voltage to ground is not important?
what voltages should reach the 'ground' and 'out' wires?

sorry for all the questions.