Removing the cams,

1. From the service manual. I've supplied pics but I learned that what you may think is intuitive is not how the disassembly should be done.
2. Check pickup coil is at TDC
3. Remove cam tensioner
4. Cam chain guide removal
5. Remove intake cam caps, using a crisscross pattern to prevent damage
6 & 7. More intake cam pics and also the exhaust cam using the same crisscross pattern to remove the caps.
8. Remove the camchain guide on the intake side.
9. Make note of where each cam cap came from.

 

Now I can flip the motor upside down. If you are planning on re-using the cylinder head be careful to not scratch the surface where it mates to the cylinder head cover.

1. Removing the clutch carrier, from the manual.
2 & 3. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the clutch spring, retainer, seat and pressure plate.
4. Then the main nut holding the carrier is exposed. Push the lock washer back and using a large socket 32mm? Not sure, will get the right size tomorrow.
5. But you need to stop the tranny from spinning. What I did was use an old chain and let it wrap around the countershaft sprocket until the 2nd layer stopped at the chain guide on the case. Then loosening became simple.
6. Here's the clutch carrier completely removed. The clutch plates and steels didn't need to be removed as the idea was to remove the entire unit.

 

coolest thread ever

 

Removing the oil pan. Ugly mofo isn't it. Remove the gazillion 5mm allen bolts that go around the periphery AND the one in the center. Some have loctite on them so those were a pain.

1. From the service manual.
2-5. Pics of the oil pan from various angles.
6-8. How the oil pan looks removed and the guts of the animal exposed...

 

Pics 1-7. Next is removing the oil/water pump
Remove the 2 metal coolant hoses by removing the 5mm allen bolt from the outside, then just pull out using your hands. The service manual pic. already assumed it was removed. I've added the pics anyway and it is tube #6 in the 1st pic and #14 in the 2nd. I show which ones I'm talking about and one pic of me pulling the tube out.
Last, I remove the oil pickup.


Pics 8-10. Now the actual pump removal...
Removed the oil delivery pipe, #9 after removing 2 5mm allen bolts
Just pulled out the long pipe #10
Removed pump cover #11 and the 10mm allen bolt that held the pump in place, don't have pics of those. The manual then says that the pump should just come out. But it didn't so I actually removed the pump sprocket to get it to come out by unscrewing the 10mm allen bolt from #1. Then it came out...
Last pic is another pic of the guts with one less organ.

 

Now being a veteran of this place for the past 3 years. I used the search function to figure out my next problem of removing the flywheel. Well what do you know... I found this...

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127403

The 16mm bolt with the proper pitch is pretty dang hard to find and autozone didn't have it. So I took the case to a salvage yard and they were able to get it off. You need to get the stator off to split the cases. There are 3 bolts to remove.

Now removing all bolts from the lower cases. The 4th pic. makes the work deceptive. The 5th shows all the nuts, 10 and 12 mm, that need removing and they need to be done carefully to avoid damage. The 6th pic. shows the bolts inside and outside.
The fourth shows with the lower case removed
The fifth shows what remains including the tranny and crankshaft.

 

Damn!! I'd never get it back together again!! :lol :lol

:bow :bow

 

why do you think I took so many pics? I remember images better than words :dundun:



:lol

 

Good job so far man. Pictures are definitely a good idea because you won't remember everything.

 

Removing the crankshaft. Unbolt 8 connecting rod bearing bolts and then gently separate the bearing joints. Keep location of each part for reassembly.

Oil cooler and oil filter removal from the lower case. 36 mm socket needed.

 

cylinder head removal. You need a 6mm allen socket to remove the 8 bolts inside. I tried using a regular L allen wrench and it broke off in there which was a beyatch to get out. Had to drill it out and then yank. The head came off rather easily and you can see how the gasket has 3 layers. Should I reuse? :dundun:


A close-up of the cylinder head and the removal of the buckets and spacers. They mostly slid off. The ones that were stubborn were gently pried loose with a needle-nose pliers. You can see the spacers inside. Gonna plan on using this as a learner to start polishing the head. Got hooked on the two head polishing threads so might as well give that a try... :rock

These were removed in a hurry so I didn't take in-action shots...

:lol

 

Gonna plan on using this as a learner to start polishing the head. Got hooked on the two head polishing threads so might as well give that a try... :rock

are you going with conventional or high velocity porting?

 

Transmission removal. When the case is split, you can just lift the main transmission gears, 1, right out. The 2nd part of the transmission needs a torx ratchet which I don't have. I'll add more pics when I can continue.

Now some pics of the devastation...


Lots of sharp edges on this... :lol

 

Jonathan your a legend... straight up. Your an inspiration. I've always wanted to split my cases for a ceramic bearing update.

By the way the last photo of you sitting next to your girl. I could of sworn you looked different. :crash

Great how too, bro!

 

neighbor bro... :chair: a little too well-done for my tastes... :sneaky :lol

 

Great post. Not enough responses for such work! I know I'm reading this late, but I have to access and replace my shift forks (at least one, I think) and possibly the dogs. Is it possible to get to them through the clutch cover, or do I have to go through the oil pan area?

Thanks again!

 

you will need to go through the oil pan, like I did to get to those parts bro.

 

what year is that motor out of? great write up by the way! hoipefully i'll never need it but i know where its at if i do!

 

The motor is from a 99. So it is pretty muh the same for models 98-03. I'll get a motor build thread soon for this and the 04-06 motor hopefully soon. :crash

 

Awsome thread man!

 

thanks fellas, more to come shortly :thumbup

 

wow

amazing, good work. That is a huge project

 

nice one roo ....... i cant wait till i have a reason to rip into my tranny :rock:rock:rock:rock

 

:thumbup thanxs fellas

 

Great write up:rock I will probably have to use it this winter. Have a problem with second gear, not fully engaged on full throttle shifts. I'm also planning to do some other mods to pick-up a few ponies( lightened and balanced crank, JE 13.1 piston kit) its an 03 r1.
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where do you put stiffer aftermarket springs in the clutch. im still a little confused on that.

 

98-03 model uses a clutch spring plate... Barnett I think uses a different mechanism.

 

Wheres the rest of the post! Now that I got my R1 all disassembled! I need to get it back together.
LOL. Well I have assembled already , then disassembled it and reassembled it and then disassembled
it then again , and again. So I think I got it down now. But any trade secrets or tech stuff
that you think would help me would be greatly appreciated. For the next time!

 

Most important thing is to take it slow and easy... My 04 has been giving me a pain for the past 2 months. Will get going on this when I can.
J.

 

great thread

 

I have a new head and a new case. I just needed some of the internals on this motor. The case on this one is banged up pretty good. As well as the head. So I won't have any before and after figures to compare to but I still remember my old 99. Will see how this one goes. I'll be using yours and marcatzls head thread for inspiration.

 

so you have a bike that this'll bolt into?
I thought you had a 04?