Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

Is this the Typical Yamaha Tick?

19K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  RavenR1FL  
#1 ·
Hi all, I've been going through the threads and it seems a lot of people have had issues with valves and rods and bearings. This got me wondering about my baby.
I took some vidoe with my phone...can someone please tell me if this sound is the normal tick or if I should be saving some money to have my mechanic start looking around.



Thanks.

-House
 
#3 ·
Thanks 06. Hopefully someone can help us :) I just got her 2 weeks ago and she has 18K on her.
 
#5 ·
well it doesn't get louder when the rpms increase. the exhaust drown out the ticking. I've had my 06 with 6K miles and the tick has been there since purchase. Its not loud, and with 21K on her now its still the same tick. so i'm thinking its OK. I plan on doing the valve adjustment and replacing the cct so maybe that will fix it. I plan on doing that in a few months.
 
#6 ·
My 05 has the same noise.

It doesn't happen every time and seems to go away once the engine is warmed up.
The bike still runs strong and doesn't have any issues so I assumed it was a normal tick.

Next spring it will go on a dyno so I figured I'd catch any issues with it then.

I had an 06 cbr1000rr and it had a noise too when it first started - but was completely normal.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks Guys. It doesn't seem to increase with the throttle...but I'll have to start it up again to make sure...I did it in one of the videos...I can't hear it increase. I can actually hear the ticking over my exhaust while riding the Boz Brothers exhaust is really low sounding...but it seems to be the same rate of tapping. I don't get to ride in high RPMs to drown out the sound.
 
#8 ·
Sounds like its time to adjust the valve cleareance. Yamaha calls for it at about 25K. However, this can occur earlier for a number of reasons. Excessive valve train tolerence is most likely the cause. This is something only your dealer/mech can do unless your really froggy. There are "valve pads" that wear over time and eventually must be replaced. These pads are different in thickness for each valve and ride between the cam and the valve itself. Since there are no rocker arms or hyd lifters to adjust for play, (high rpm engines use solid valve trains) you have these wearable "pad" componets. My bet is this is the sound your hearing.
 
#9 ·
Thanks Manara101, any idea how soon this should be done? Listening to other posts this really doesn't sound bad...
 
#10 ·
owners manual calls for 25K But I imagine it could be done anytime.
 
#11 ·
"Tick" much much louder

Updated video of ticking. Much much lounder on right hand side of the bike. My mechanic agrees it's lounder than "normal" gonna have the valves checked and timing chain replaced.

 
#12 ·
Incase anyone has followed this. My mechanic called today, not good. 10 out of 20 intake valves were out of spec...and a few were waaaaayyy out of spec. The ones way out of spec were between .25mm-.30mm compared to the factory .11mm-.20mm, had to do a compression test to ensure none were bent...at least I passed that. All the exhaust valves were fine.

What would make my valves get that far out? As soon as I get her back, I'll post all the details and a video.
 
#13 ·
What kind of fuel you normally run? Detonation or bad gas could rattle the valves enough to damage them but it would have to be prolonged usage. It may or may not help you find the cause but it's a thought.
 
#16 ·
I can't speak for the previous owner, but Oil changes have always been aroun 3K running a semi synthetic. As for fuel, for the last 2 years I was running top of the line, the last 4 months I've been running mid grade. When I bought the bike, they said not to ride it unill the oil temp hits 115 F. Religiously I wait for her to warm up to 115 F before I go anywhere. Thanks for the responses...hoping this isn't going to lead to other issues.

The mechanic said everything was fine, which surprised him. It was just the intake valves. The mechanic said someone may have been in there previously and F*@#ed up the measurements. Unfortunately, I have no records of previous work to the bike. I read the factory recomends one valve check before the 25K...so I guess it's possible.
 
#18 ·
I am supposed to be picking up the bike today. I'll double check with the mechanic regaring valve wear. Once I have all the details regarding all the valves and their specs, I'll post those as well. I'll be talking to the company I purchased it from as well.
 
#19 ·
So, two days later and still don't have my bike back. Got a call today saying two valves are stuck, wtf!

If anyone is still checking this, how or what causes a valve to get stuck? The mechanic said it could be from the last shim could've been the slightly too big and over time the heat and pressure caused this.

Could this cause me any further issues?
 
#21 ·
I'm still thinking valve guides man, I may be way out of line but it all leads me back to that.
 
#20 ·
I'm going throught the valve guide/valve problem right now and i found out both times sofar on mine that if a cyl. Is having the problem you can unplug the coil for each cyl. One at a time. If one has the problem that cyl. When unpluged will run fine for 2 sec and the another cyl. Will shut down for safety reason and then the motor will die out. The other cyls. Will cause the motor to run rough right when u unplug it.
 
#22 ·
I'm really hoping it's not. I'll be speaking with the mechanic face to face tomorrow and I'll ask him if he tripple checked everything. At least the valves weren't bent, I suppose that's a silver lining.

Why do you think it's the guides? What would cause the guides to go, thus causing only the intake measurements to get out of whack?
 
#25 ·
So, 3 weeks later I finally have her back and she sounds sweet!!

Here's a video update.



Here's the before.



There were a ton of issues the previous mechanic screwed up! Which took my mechanic 4 attempts to shim the valves, 2 leak down tests and pulling out the camshafts.

What he found was a bit disturbing. One camshaft sprocket was 180 degrees off and the camshaft intake caps were reversed (left on right, right on left). This is why he had to shim the valves 4 times and pulled out a bit of his hair!
 
#26 ·
lol i cant really tell the difference in the videos

my 04 is at 20,000 miles, and i hear ticking, only at idle, at startup. when riding u sure cant hear it,and seems to go away after riding and then come to a stop when you're in neutral

guess its time to get the valves adjusted :(

but my money is tight and i know this type of job is expensive right?
 
#27 ·
A valve job isn't that much work.its kinda tight but it shouldn't be to hard. When my bike had its problems.the noise was always there.the higher the rpm's went the faster the tick was.does your bike only do it when its cold? Mine was worse when cold but it was still bad when it was warm.