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just bought an R1 with 30K miles...what to look out for?

4.9K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  prnstar123  
#1 · (Edited)
hey guys, i'm new to the forum so i'm not entirely familiar with the site...anyways, i recently bought a 99 blue R1 for $3760 and some stuff. the only catch was that it had 30K miles, tipped over once, not while riding (no rashes)...was this a good deal? also, what should i look out for? i read the oil article on this site (which was inconclusive hehe), and i think the previous owner used regular or synthetic blend oil, which i would like to stick to...what brand would you guys recommend? i dont want to switch to full synthetic cuz the bike has been on normal oil so long, and i've read bad things about switching on older bikes not previously on full synthetic...

i will definitely be taking it in for service next season...i already bought a new rear tire for it, and she also needs the rear brakes done....anything else you guys would recommend or check?

right now she's in the garage plugged in with a trickle charger and a full tank of gas with stabil in the system (this is my 6th bike, but my first yamaha :D )

here's a pic down...i think i did it right...
any replies would be appreciated

vincehttp://xbe.xanga.com/4a7844314163119632223/b14093690.jpg
 
#3 ·
30k miles on mine....original clutch and it's been on full synthetic since 2500 miles.....just change the oil every 2-3k and you'll be alright....oil brand is only an opinion..I've run a few and currently tried Rotella T but haven't ridden with it since due to SNOW.


Good luck :)
 
#6 ·
Eyespy said:
My thought too. The price was like 1/2 the street value. Could be hot...
thats a good thought....but luckily the owner matched the title and address, and he'd owned it for over 3 years (whew!)

btw...the other items i gave up was a 40gb ipod (that i bought for $100), and a sony PSP with 7 movies and 3 games....still a good deal IMO...

btw merry christmas guys!
 
#7 ·
That one appears to be in nearly pristine condition but cosmetics aren't everything. Depending on how hard he rode will depend on your next move. I'd have them check the valves since they're first due at 22K if he hasn't had a full service done on it already. Other than that when you take it in for its service they should check all of the bearings and seals for you. Just make sure 2nd gear isn't skipping any and check for any remote signs of fork seal leakage.

Nice deal you got on that one!
 
#8 ·
The 1st valve inspection is due at 26.6K. And as incredible as it may seem, in my experience, even then, the valve clearances on the 5 valve per cylinder Genesis motors, for the vast majority of the valves, are still within spec.

How's the bike run?
 
#11 ·
GixxR1 said:
thanks for the replies everyone. the bike seems to run great and i dont see any signs of fork leakage, but i'll make sure to have the valves and bearings checked when i take her in. now what about oil? what's the best synthetic blend oil or regular oil?
Amsoil high performance synthetic. Also one of the least expensive.
 
#14 ·
Eye,

Re value checks: Is this true of your "track" R1s as well?

Mark

P.S. Also, on the oil issue, I just tried 5W40 Castrol Superbike R4....It was my impression that it was shifting a little _worse_, so I went back to Castrol GPS 10W40, which is not much better, but....


Eyespy said:
The 1st valve inspection is due at 26.6K. And as incredible as it may seem, in my experience, even then, the valve clearances on the 5 valve per cylinder Genesis motors, for the vast majority of the valves, are still within spec.

How's the bike run?
 
#15 ·
how often you change the oil is WAY more important than who's name is on the bottle.

Use a good name brand oil, and change it regularly.

as far as filter go I have used most all of them, and the only one I have ever had a problem with is Fram. Will never use them again, on my truck or bike. I try to stick with oem filters for the most part, though I have a k&n on the bike at the moment.
 
#16 ·
That is avery good price for an R1... I like that build and IMO I thing the red and white model is the seminal build of the R1 that all should be held against...
enjoy
 
#17 ·
Eyespy said:
For whatever it's worth, I've not found shifting to matter much regardless of the oil being used. YMMV.
No difference at all ? Silkolene was the best so far but then shifting got worse after 1000 miles plus thier price went up recently. I've heard many claim Rotella T is real good....so I bought some at Wally world change the oil but never rode it cause of snow and ice.....soon I'll ride it and see...if no change I'll go back to Amsoil. It just seems the other 2 02-03 R1's I rode shifted smoother than mine but at times mine is butter after an oil change with some oils....but then it fades.

:dunno
 
#21 ·
why you wanna waste money? HEll put some Honda Hp4 in there ..its dino juice..and its JASO certified( has an actual ma #) but in the end this is going to be a choice for you...I'd make sure you get a JASO cert oil as a minimum. But hey CHANGE the COOLANT!!! its probably original and worn the heck out by now.
 
#23 ·
laubin said:
why you wanna waste money? HEll put some Honda Hp4 in there ..its dino juice..and its JASO certified( has an actual ma #) but in the end this is going to be a choice for you...I'd make sure you get a JASO cert oil as a minimum. But hey CHANGE the COOLANT!!! its probably original and worn the heck out by now.
hmmm coolant change...i didnt think about that...good idea!
 
#26 ·
I use Mobil1 MX4T 10W40 (fully synthetic) and it's awesome. Shifting is great, engine temp lowered and I don't have any problems with anything at all. Price $10.99/qt

Change the oil every 4k miles and don't listen any myths that you should change it more frequently.

BTW: nice looking bike.

:beer