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My 03 r1 has lost 30hp !!!

1.5K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  aar0ncee  
#1 ·
I took it to wheeler's at the gap to get it on the dyno and it was only running at 107hp. It only has an akra slip on and -1 +2 sprockets, with ext swingarm. I should be a lot more powerful than this.

Thing is that the bike runs smoothly, just not fast. 8,000miles. I checked the air box and I'm gonna buy plugs and a compression tester today, but what else could it be?

Possibly ex-up valve? The little marks are lined up
Injectors? will mechanic in a bottle help?


I'm confused. I bought it with 7,000 miles on it and noticed that I could not wheelie it, even before I stretched it.

Any advice?
 
#3 ·
yep sometiing wrong. start with simple stuff. cahrge battery fully, fresh gas, new plugs, clean air filter...if it still runs smooth just with power loss, could be many things.. compression and leakdown after you do other things..or while u have plugs out.
 
#6 ·
107 is on for a r6. plus u are at a higher elevation.
 
#9 ·
It's an 03 r1, not the r6. It's in South Carolina. I doubt it's European. It would probably have something different it was from there.

I just thought about this.....

I only get about 120mi before a fuel light and it never starts the first time I crank it. It takes minute to get it to start. Could that be from lack of spark or from lack of fuel? Should I use some sort of injector cleaner? It may have sat for a while.
 
#11 ·
I'm having the excect same problems with my UK 2002 R1, i'm getting 118BHp at the back wheel, the bike has 8k miles on the clocks, just done full service (oil, filters, iridium spark plugs) The only mod on the bike is an Akrapovic carbon slip on exhaust.. other info from the dyno: AirP(in.Hg) 29.28 AirT(F) 70.6 Maximum Rates 118.4Hp@10364rpm/67ft-ibs@8423rpm...
 
#13 ·
Get a power commander and a after market exhaust.
 
#16 ·
its a fairly common problem if it sits awhile or has really high mileage take it to a dealer and performa fuel system pressure test better than a dealer try a dyno shop generally fuel pressure reads perfect at idle put a load under the engine and if it drops off this will kill your power...i could but a gsxr750 to the throttle stop in 1st gear, that bike should of flipped over backwards, it just got light in the front; on the suzuki's the nickle plating in the fuel pump itself flakes off and clogs the uncleanable fuel screen when they get up there in mileage...some of them anyways..... if you got some bad gas or rust, debris in the tank ect it could do the same thing, remember you cannot just replace a fuel filter it has to be the pump...its not that expensive to get it dyno'd and get a fuel pressure test worse comes to worse swap tanks with a friend and dyno it...
 
#17 ·
yzf_frank02 said:
its a fairly common problem if it sits awhile or has really high mileage take it to a dealer and performa fuel system pressure test better than a dealer try a dyno shop generally fuel pressure reads perfect at idle put a load under the engine and if it drops off this will kill your power...i could but a gsxr750 to the throttle stop in 1st gear, that bike should of flipped over backwards, it just got light in the front; on the suzuki's the nickle plating in the fuel pump itself flakes off and clogs the uncleanable fuel screen when they get up there in mileage...some of them anyways..... if you got some bad gas or rust, debris in the tank ect it could do the same thing, remember you cannot just replace a fuel filter it has to be the pump...its not that expensive to get it dyno'd and get a fuel pressure test worse comes to worse swap tanks with a friend and dyno it...
Good advice, I'll give it a shot.

The only bad thing is that none of my friends ride Yamaha R1's, a few 6's, but my bike is rare in Columbia, SC.
 
#18 ·
before randomly swapping parts in hopes of hitting the correct thing, find out what the problem is first. Other wise you are just wasting time and money.

What was the a/f like on the dyno?

Could be a million different things, finding the problem and fixing it will ultimatly be cheaper than swapping out random parts hpoing it fixes it's self.

I would check the compression, and most certainly the cam timing.
 
#23 ·
it would be very useful in your trouble shooting if you could get a dyno run with an A/F graph on it.

Compression test and go from there.