You are correct you wouldn't be able to turn over without the safety switches being done correctly. Do you have power to the coils at all when cranking? If not check your ignition fuse. if that checks out check for power to the ignition unit (red/white wire). Let me know what you get and we can go from there.

 

coil primary resistance is perfect, but the secondary resistance (HT leads) is nil, there seems to be nothing transmitted down the leads.

So the spark could be stopping at the coil as leads may not be transmitting the signal..? ? ? Sound right?

They are weird these dynatek leads, you had a thin fibre based wire core that you crimp against the body and onto the terminals.

Ignition fuse is good...

Do I just check for power at coils the same as I would the battery voltage..?

 

I have power to the ignition unit...

 

And double checking the circuit diagram, the orange and grey wires run to the ignition unit. The 2 red wires (red/black sourced to the relay assembley, red/white sourced to the ignition fuse) go to the start/stop switch.

Again, daft question, but the red wires could not be back to front at the switch could they causing the issue...

 

If your secondary coil is showing nil it's probably open which would definitely cause no spark. Your secondary is responsible for sending the spark down the wire. When you checked the resistance did you by chance just see if there was continuity?

 

Ive only gone from what the haynes manual states for the standard coils...
However the UK Haynes manuals are not always that clear in what they want you to do..!

 

When you checked continuity on your secondary coils you made sure to measure only using the coil itself with the wpark plug wire off right? did you get an OL reading on your multimeter indicating an open circuit? If you still have it out just check for continuity on the secondary coils.

 

Right, I have power to the coils....

Leading me to think, If I am right, that there is an issue with the leads..?

Ill recheck lead resistance on all 4 leads and secondary resistance, dynatek state 14k ohms for secondary resistance with these coils

 

I have only checked resistance with the coils disconnected from the wiring...

then for the secondary resistance I took reading at the spark plug connector end, pos probe on one lead, neg on the other, with leads plugged into coils...

Would it matter if the 2 red wires were back to front..?

 

my bike is in my living room so im sat right by it ;-)

 

However, I cant seem to pick up a voltage reading from the coils (they are connected up, lol).....! just switched ignition on, and did same test you would do on a battery when checking voltage.

As I said, no 'auto electrician' me, hahahaaa

 

Individual lead resistances are as follows:-

7.6k ohms
7.4k ohms
8.2k ohms
8.0k ohms

Secondary resistance figures are 28.4k & 28.7k (coils detatched from terminals, leads attatched to coils and one probe on each end of lead at sparl pug connection).

 

When you measure resistance on the secondaries you have to do it without the wires attached as in just the coil packs. Just so I'm not getting confused when you say leads you are referring to the spark plug wires and not the multimeter leads correct?

 

Yes the individual spark plug wires, sorry we call them HT leads over in the UK...

Ok Ill recheck the secondary resistance now.

 

dynatek utilises ring connectors for the 4 points and then the ignition leads push into the posts.
Inside the posts is the exposed metal conductive surface.

I don't appear to have any secondary resistance checking as you described.

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WCDmfmN+L._SL300_.jpg

The ignition leads are simple to build up.
They come as a pair with the spark plug caps already connected.
You just chop the wires in the middle, expose the central core and fold it over. Then crimp the attachment on.
They are just push fit into the coil....

Bringing us now back to probably having an issue with the coil rather than the leads.

I have emailed Dynatek 'Tech Support' as they in the States so I can not phone them :-(
Awaiting a reply

Have also double checked all wiring in the harness and there are no issues, an issue with the starter switch I assume would not cause 'no spark' because if it is wired incorrectly we would get no turnover..?

 

To check the secondary resistance on those just stick positive prode into spark plug post 1 and the negative probe into spark plug post 2 so a probe for each spark plug post where the plug wires would plug into.

 

secondary resistance is 12.9 & 13k ohms which is perfect I think for them coils

 

The way it's wired is the power to the coils (red/black wire) is given from the kill switch/run switch not the starter button. Power to your ECU/Ignition box is given from the red/white wire which is through the ignition fuse. The ECU is responsible for grounding the coils and firing them. your bike is turning over so I see no issues with your starting circuit. When you said you had no spark at all you did check all 4 plugs for spark right?

 

Yes 12-18k is spec from the manual of course these are aftermarket I assume these are fine. So we have power to coils and ECU lets check the ground now.

 

the Dynateks are 12>14k secondary after a quick search... so thats good

 

so testing with ,mutimeter shows coils n leads to be good.

yes, using the earth test not 1 plug had spark!

Here's one for you then, would pos and neg on regrect cause this if they were connected back to front, or maybe bad earth...

As regrect 'pos' goes to the ecu, start/stop switch, starter relay and main fuse
I have a new regrect fitted due to bad connection burning last one out but the pos/neg terminals are not marked.

 

Replied to your PM with the next thing to check let me know what you get.

 

0.28 resistance at the pick up coil, or 286 ohms which is within spec

 

Earth resistance from battery to main earth point is 0.2ohms, low resistance sounds good to me...

 

hi
sorrry , i deleted few of your previous pm's as my box is getting full , i cant remember if you have cyclelock or not ...

first thing , check if theres +12v on red/black wire connected to the coils (check between red/black and ground) , when ignition on of course .

 

Sorry we have been PM'ing back and forth. He has power to the coils to the ECU and fuses check out, as well as resistance within spec on the coil primary and secondary and the pick up coil is within spec as well. Checking ground circuits now to see if he has a bad ground o the ECU side as I know the ignition or main switch is used to ground the ECU I imagine there is an issue somewhere on a ground.

 

what about cyclelock , does he have it ?