If you want the CCU & active ohlins suspension, then its the one to get. Go calculate the price of the base + the CCU + gps cowling(if you can get it) + active ohlins + SCU(if you can get it and needed to work with the ohlins SD043 steering damper) + installation time. The carbon bits and brushed tank and swing arms becomes a bonus, not to mention a liiiiittle bit extra pride of ownership and exclusivity.

 

Honestly, you can build a "better" setup by buying an R1 base, and using the money difference to buy aftermarket goods(gas charged forks, upgraded rear shock, forged al or CF wheels, etc)

 

I dont think you can buy the forks and shock for less than what the m would cost. The shock is a ttx. Thats basically 2k. I cant recall what the forks are. But theyll be at least 2500-3000.

The question is can you ride a bike well enough to justify needing the suspension.
The rest of the bike is bling.

 

if you can get the m. get it.

 

Dont forget, your only getting one color option on the M.... Im fond of the new Yellow 60th, and I don't care if no one else is lol

 

Thats a good thing, one less decision. Do not have to decide between the matt grey or bumblebee. The MATT is my fav now.

 

Man, that would be a tough one for me. I own an M and love it but if I was buying a bike for track days only I would go with the standard model and then give Justin a call at SBU...

 

I got me an M and love it. It all depends on your intended use. If I were to track the bike. Id go with the base and use the remainder on aftermarket goods.

 

Thanks..

Interesting comments regarding base model and upgrades for the track. I thought the M was supposed to be track orientated??
I guess my use would be general road with odd track day...
I like the idea of the M being a little different, a little exclusive at present, depends on numbers released I guess...

Q: Do you get the GPS cowl and rear seat with the M?

Thanks,

 

Yes, both

 

You want the M .. But budget for at least a 3/4 exhaust and a ecu flash...

If the M eliminates your ability to do the exhaust, go for the base model.. Imho

 

:wink2on't forget sprockets and a tablet to program it with.

 

It's all about your intended use of the bike. If the bike is going to be your everyday bike used for commuting, anything but the base model is overkill. If you intend to do more inspired road riding and occasional track days, the M model is without doubt a better package. If you intend to build a track only bike, the M model might be overkill since you are likely to remove the carbon fairings and replace the OEM suspension.


As usual, this forum puts a lot of emphasis in exhausts and bling parts. However, if you want to go fast it's all about tyres, suspension, brakes and track time.

 

I think this debate building one or buying an M can go forever, depending on the person and their taste. If you don't see yourself "building" an R1M of your own, just get the R1M.

I would go with the R1M just thinking about the resale. If you do mods on a standard R1, when the time comes to sell the bike, you won't get much in return from the mods which you have done. As for if you were to buy an R1M, and ride it as is, it'll retain the value better just because of the exclusivity of it.

That is just my own opinion though.

 

$2k for BITUBO gas charged fork inserts(ECH29) and rear shock(XXF11) + $2.2k forged OZ Gass-RSA wheels and you still got some cash left for that CCU if you reallyyyyyy want it.

Plus the way things are looking.. seems the 60th anniversary model will be more exclusive(color scheme for 2016 year only).

 

Ohlins FGRT219 forks are $2,399 and the TTX GP YA-416 shock is $1,459 so that's over $3,800 alone and they're not electronic. The Carbon Fiber body work is double the price of standard R1 bodywork, the CF cowl, GPS and CCU is another $1,500+ not to mention the sweet brushed tank and swing arm plus the exclusivity that comes with owning an R1M. I think it's well worth the $5K extra but, I guess it depends on what you want and are willing to spend.

 

Someone who did the math. On the street is where the adaptive suspension shines, also, without the scu, the ohlins sd043 cannot be used adaptively, and that is another plus on the street. On the track,
you can set it to manual once you dial it in and load up different setups for different wheel set combinations easily, like cf wheels (without counting clicks). For what you are intending to use it for, this is it.

 

Track it and don't look back...street riding has become so boring, the track ruined it...:lol

https://youtu.be/OLllqmjMuyk?list=PLKRf_4rKHQEqcNeg0VNIfrMcxNSlK9Uru

 

I sure hope that guy was on a 600. or did he let you pass?

 

^sounds sick

 

I would not say the OEM R1M suspension is adaptive. When talking suspension and suspension control, the term adaptive is normally used for suspension that learns or re-calibrates from history. The R1M does not. The R1M changes the compression and rebound damping depending on the mode of the motorcycle (if it accelerates, brakes, turns or travels at constant speed).

There is really no aftemarket suspension that is comparable to the OEM R1M suspension because none of the aftermarket alternatives keep the electronic control. On the other hand, all recent Ohlins aftermarket cartridges, front forks and shock absorbers have got hardwares at a higher state of tune. The hardware found in the OEM R1M suspension is comparable to Ohlins 2011-2012 aftemarket suspension (because that is the time frame in any OEM motorcycle) and there has been development since.

Then again, it all comes down to the intended use of the motorcycle.

As an everyday commuter - get the base model or even the cheaper S model.

If you do more inspired road riding and occasional track days - get the M model. It's without doubt a better performing package and you do get some good stuff without having to invest time.

If you are a trackday junkie - hard choice. You are going to get rid of the OEM fairings and you are likely to add loads of aftermarket parts, but do you need the electronically controlled suspension...? Can you use the advantages of aftermarket suspension at a higher state of tune...?

If you are building a Superstock legal race bike - get the R1M simply because the mechanical part of the front fork (that you have to keep) seems to work slightly better than the base model. Get the race fairings, the Superstock engine / electronic kit, disable the electronic suspension control and add the cartridge kit and the shock absorber of your choice.

If you are building the ultimate Superbike - get the base model and strip the bike completely. While sending the engine away for tuning, get the front fork, shock absorber, wheels, brakes, electronics and data acquisition system you really want.

Get the M model as a collectors bike...? Forget it. This is not an italian exotica and certainly not a race bike like the R7 or any of the "R" Ducatis. This is a mass produced japanese streetbike. There was some initial talk about only five hundred samples, but I doubt it. We are talking about thousands. It came back for one more year and I would be very surprised if it's not available for 2017 too.

 

2016 GSXR 1000 is the only bike to consider for next year



























Just joking. Has this debate not been done a million times yet?
The M is a SICK SICK bike so that gets my vote. The M was so full of myth at the start so people were frantic about ordering but there are still brand new M's for sale in Canyada. With the continuation of the M in 2016 i cant see it being the same feeding frenzy so i dont think you need to go and rush a deposit unless you're sure. Hell, id look for a leftover M and if you're lucky you could get one a a discount.

 

Go for M, dude! Hi from Italy...

 

Hi
R1M ordered... Deposit done? Can't wait.
Not sure when it comes... But hoping March 16