Thanks for the info that's great to know.

 

You're welcome! Glad to share.

Also, to be more specific the weight savings were 2.5lbs on the front wheel and 4.5lbs on the rear wheel swap.

 

Good stuff, now if there was some way to get the MOI of wheels.

 

Here's some information regarding MOI, from both manufacturer's. Not a direct comparison to the R1, but it gives an idea. I'm not sure how much a machine to test MOI would cost, but I will investigate.

BST - http://www.blackstonetek.com/pdfs/effects-of-inertia.pdf
Rotobox - ROTOBOX:*Truly the lightest and strongest carbon fiber wheels

 

Very nice. I've always said this is probably the single best modification you can make for most aspects of performance.

 

I can confirm this. I have BST's and it was best mod of many through the years. It feels like a totally different bike.

 

Yes indeed. A new bike feeling and having to relearn bar pressure for turn in. Its feather light now. !!! Carbon for the win


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actually, you don't change bar pressure ..your entry speeds and ability to brake while leaned over just increased to race like ability with street skills or your 1000 just became a 600 chassis with a liter motor in the frame

 

And it dosen't have to be stupid expensive.
I've changed to PVM alu wheels, lightweight discs, total saving was 3,7kg.

 

Hah, decent price for those wheels in Europe, but when I see how much they cost in the US it's insane. I like them.

Can someone tell me if getting wheels, how much other stuff do you have to get to make them work? Do stock rotors bolt up? What's the difference in cush drives? How about the sensors for electronics and so on?

I just always feel like it's involved and it's one price for the wheels, but by the time you're done it's XXX more.

 

I agree


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Well maybe i was putting to much on the bars and the wheels made me notice. ?


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is that a bare rim to bare rim comparison?

lots of the weight comparisons Ive seen for carbon vs stock rims has often had the stock rim with bits still on it, and the carbon rim completely bare, so hasnt been a true comparison of weight loss when everything is installed

 

The weights are compared with identical setups. The front wheel weights for both are with bearings installed and applicable spacers.

The rear weights are with bearings installed, all spacers, and sprocket carrier.

Thanks

 

I was surprised to feel how heavy the stock magnesium rims were. it may of saved 1 or 2 lbs at most. but it's not worth the added issues that come with magnesium. it has to stay chip free or it will start to corrode and the paint will bubble off.
if you got the money get forged alum or the CF rims

 

:corn for Rotobox comparison.

 

It will just be the equivalent of comparing a head shot of Rosie O'Donnell versus Jennifer Aniston....:fact

 

We currently have a set of the Rotobox on the shelf. The BSTs are currently out of stock but are on the way so we should have them shortly. If you ever want to know what we have in stock, our website is real-time inventory so you can always check and see.

Here is a link to the Rotobox on our site.
https://www.brocksperformance.com/YZFR1+C530.aspx

Here is a link to the BSTs.
https://www.brocksperformance.com/R1+C116.aspx

 

I put Carrozzeria forged wheels on my Triumph Sport/Touring bike for a weight savings of 7 pound front and 3 pounds rear including new front Carrozzeria brake rotors. It TRANSFORMED the bike.

Now when I go back and forth between the "Triumph" and the R1M, the R1M feels like a truck. Really, it reacts so slowly in comparison, it's hard to comprehend. Our bikes really need different wheels. Magnesium is exotic, sure, but damn are these heavy!

 

BST's

I just put the BST Carbon's on my bike this year after not riding for over 1 1/2 years because of a dislocated shoulder but wanted to install them going from stock to the BST within a week or two because I thought it would be much easier to feel the difference. I decided to put the BST's on before my 1st ride in over a year and couldn't believe the difference. Best mod since I've owned the bike. The only thing is: you definitely need to reset your suspension.

 

Best mod since I've owned the bike. The only thing is: you definitely need to reset your suspension.

Seems to be a very popular opinion...I didn't feel the need to adjust my suspension, everything seems to work perfectly, I didn't touch the rebound...and I put some cmc rotors on at the same time...

Maybe my senses aren't as acute as others...

 

saving up for new wheels myself.. the only problem I see on shaving so much weight on rotating mass is that it usually represents shaving a huge chunk from my bank account! :smilies26:

 

For you guys who have carbon wheels AND suspension on the current R1, which do you feel made more improvement? I have neither but was planning to get cartridges for the forks first but if the wheels make such a dramatic difference maybe I'll get them first.

 

On my Ducati 1098S I had the suspension upgraded to Ohlins superbike specs and it improved on the street as well as the track but not even close to the effect of lighter wheels. The difference is stunning, no exaggeration. If you think about it, the whole 2-wheeled experience is based upon gyroscope physics and nothing can change that more than lighter wheels.

 

Thanks for the reply and I've had a couple others say the same thing. Looks like wheels may have to be my first real upgrade to the bike.

 

Actually there is something that makes more difference than lighter wheels - lighter tires, due to their location on the "gyro". Michelin Power Pure tires claimed to be a kilogram (2.2 lbs) lighter per pair than any competitor's tire by using polyaramide fibers. Michelin claimed it to be equivalent to losing 6 pounds of wheel weight (for a set of 2). I read reports of a few coming apart, so perhaps that's why they don't sell them anymore. I had a set mounted on forged Carrozzeria wheels and they really did feel lighter but damn did they wear out fast.

 

Marchesini Genisi M7R wheel fitment for 2015~ R1/R1m weigh 17.15 lbs for the set complete.

Almost the same weight as the BST Carbon Wheels. Price is generally $4300 to $4500 depending on where one buys them. For racers who cannot use Carbon wheels this is an option, for the rest of us Carbon wheels are less expensive.

In this case Forged Magnesium is more expensive than the Carbon wheels. Does anyone out there have a set of these Moto GP style wheels on their new R1?

For my money, the RBX2's are they way to go. I'll be ordering a set soon!

 

but the Rotobox wheels are ugly as hell ..

 

I started hating the looks.. then it has started to grow more and more on me. Specially on those YART prepped R1s.

 

Rumor on IG is they are going to unvail a new "style" wheel soon.

 

Has anyone did everything possible to a set of Yamaha OEM magnesium wheels? Alloy spacers, Titanium hardware, ceramic bearings, lighter rotors and sprocket to see where that ends up? I'm putting carbon wheels on my race bike, but will try to make the stock wheel set as light as they can be - that wheel set will carry rains on them most of the time, still they shouldn't be boat anchors.

Anyone went down this path yet? Cheers

 

Had BST wheels on my Panigale and she sure was transformed to be more agile...was a dramatic improvement.

I own a 60th anniversary and would love to keep the gold wheels look on her...

I will order either Gold colored forged Marchesini of Forged carrozzeria's for my bike...

Wheels are the most noticeable improvement your money can buy...

 

I'm installing the new RBX2 BOOST wheels on my R1. They are engineered to be stronger than the standard RBX2 wheels and they "look" lighter - more like BST's with the new smaller spoke design. I'll post up when they are installed and I've track tested them.

As for suspension changes, I have RBX or BST's on all my bikes.

For me in general - your results could be different than mine - The wheels are so much lighter that the compression damping is usually a click or two even faster and the rebound is usually one click slower than with the magnesium wheels. Again that is what I have to do to the suspension make the bike feel correct to me.

I've learned this over the years. This is something that has to be adjusted out every time we fit the rain wheels up - They are usually a heavier aluminum or magnesium wheel and the rains weight a bit more than the slicks too. Please consider you may have to adjust your suspension differently than I do with slicks and TTX/KTech pressurized suspension systems used on my race bikes. Thought I'd share what I've learned about using Carbon wheels since no one else has shared what they had to adjust for the way the very light wheels affect their bikes suspension and handling. Cheers all.