Well i barely got my new (to me) 02 R1 home. I started the bike up, drove about an hour on the highway, saw the lights dimming a bit when i Rev'd it. So i pulled off the highway. By the end of the off-ramp the lights, gauges, etc..were dead then the bike died. Threw the bike in the back of a truck, got it home. Put the battery on a charge, took a charge fine, put it in the bike, put a volt meter on it and could NOT get it higher then 11.5 or so. Then a pulled the plug to the voltage regulator (rectifier) from the stator to try to get a reading in OHM's from the stator, I could not get a accurate reading so I plugged it back in. Started the bike up put the meter on once again, it then read 13.6. Im like WTF? So i took it for a ride up the street and back. Pulled it into the garage and it was then stuck at 11.5 again. I am not sure what this bike needs. Money is very tight right now and I dont want to buy a stator, the tool to remove the flywheel, gasket, new oil etc. if its just the voltage regulator. Any one have any ideas? I feel as though I am going to end up replacing both, it would just be nice to know if I could get away with just one....Thanks guys
BlowinDonuts
Stator or Voltage regulator (rectifier)??
How long did you charge the battery for? Put it on a battery tender or bike charger overnight, after 24 hours test volts before you do anything else. If it's not at least in the mid 12 range you've got a problem with it.
Bike batteries are just like ones in cars. They don't last more than a few years in most cases.
Bike batteries are just like ones in cars. They don't last more than a few years in most cases.
if your battery will not charge above 12v and hold the charge its buggered. You got lucky strting her with 11.5v and with the engine running your voltage went up, which is a good sign, the problme is your battery is not holding any charge.
Change it and then worry if the problme persists, but i doubt it will
Change it and then worry if the problme persists, but i doubt it will
like waxer said,try charging the battery a bit longuer and check voltage!
start by changing the battery!
start by changing the battery!
Ok so this is wierd. I bring the bike to my friends shop. I CANNOT get it to act up. The other day it was stuck at 11.5. Now I turn it on, I get mid 12's just sitting there, hit the start button and it drops down obviously for one second to high 10's. The bike fires right up and it climbs to mid 13's. As i rev it up to between 4k-5k RPM It slowly climbs up to almost 13.8. (I know most would like to see 14.0) So i take the bike for a long ride, about an hour, all variation of speed and RPM levels on the bike trying to trigger anything. Bring it back into the shop to try to get another reading thinking that it may be acting up after riding for a while, and Nothing. Actually read a little higher at 13.9 when reving to 4-5k rpm this time. I guess ill just ride it until it really acts up? Idk, im not a mental case, there was a problem for sure and the volt meter was stuck at 11.5. Idk....
Please help
So i had the same problem as people are talking about. I cant afford to pay to bring it in so I would like to figure out what I will need to earn to get it fixed without paying the mechanic to inspect it.
last year I was driving, stopped turned off the bike to talk to someone then tried to turn it on and it was dead. i bought a new battery, they charged it for me then it drained. I brought it in they fixed it by replacing the stator and rectifier then they told me there were metal shavings in there that were not letting it charge???
I was driving to a friends and got almost all the way there and it died a week ago. I called the same shop (which is in a different state now since i moved) and they have no record of the metal shavings and the guy who worked on my bike quit. I need to know if anyone has heard of this before or if I need to start looking at the stator again but i just dont think it would be the same two parts I replaced last summer
any advice will help thanks!
03 R1
So i had the same problem as people are talking about. I cant afford to pay to bring it in so I would like to figure out what I will need to earn to get it fixed without paying the mechanic to inspect it.
last year I was driving, stopped turned off the bike to talk to someone then tried to turn it on and it was dead. i bought a new battery, they charged it for me then it drained. I brought it in they fixed it by replacing the stator and rectifier then they told me there were metal shavings in there that were not letting it charge???
I was driving to a friends and got almost all the way there and it died a week ago. I called the same shop (which is in a different state now since i moved) and they have no record of the metal shavings and the guy who worked on my bike quit. I need to know if anyone has heard of this before or if I need to start looking at the stator again but i just dont think it would be the same two parts I replaced last summer
any advice will help thanks!
03 R1
Hi mate,
I had the same problem. Not only the Yamaha r1 2002-2003, have a poor stator.
Many others bikes have the same problem. To solve your problem, you need a Tester.
First of all,
-Check your battery. Need to be at least 12,8V. If not charge it.
(A good working charging system, your bike started, the voltage should be 14V, and when
you rev`it to 5000 RPM, should read 14,3 to 14,5) (If your bike is started, and your battery
start draining slowly, it mean you have problem. Turn it off and do the following test)
-Check all your fuses, replace burned ones if needed.
-Check all your connectors and wires for rusted or melted. Repair if needed.
If everything from above is good, now it is time to test the STATOR.
-Put the Tester to continuity.
Do the continuity test with the Tester to the stator connector to the frame.
if there`s a continuity between any of the 3 white wires to the frame (or ground) = that mean your stator need to be replace.
And If there`s is any continuity between the 3 white wires the stator is burnt and need to be replace.
If the stator is good,
Then the problems is the Regulator Rectifier!!!. If you want to test the regulator rectifier you need a good Tester. A FLUKE 179 tester or higher. The test is called Diode Test, hard to explain, you need to be electric oriented. Ill let the website explain.
Heres the link on how to verify your Regulator Rectifier.
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
And Here the link to the Service Manual Yamaha R1 - 2002 - 2003.
For your info: its stickied on top.!!!
Go to Page 8-23 for Troubleshooting Charging system.
http://www.waxer.com/r1/
The Charging system is only BATTERY, FUSES , WIRES , CONNECTORS, STATOR AND REGULATOR RECTIFIER. You can`t go wrong!!!
HOPE IT HELP:thumbup
I had the same problem. Not only the Yamaha r1 2002-2003, have a poor stator.
Many others bikes have the same problem. To solve your problem, you need a Tester.
First of all,
-Check your battery. Need to be at least 12,8V. If not charge it.
(A good working charging system, your bike started, the voltage should be 14V, and when
you rev`it to 5000 RPM, should read 14,3 to 14,5) (If your bike is started, and your battery
start draining slowly, it mean you have problem. Turn it off and do the following test)
-Check all your fuses, replace burned ones if needed.
-Check all your connectors and wires for rusted or melted. Repair if needed.
If everything from above is good, now it is time to test the STATOR.
-Put the Tester to continuity.
Do the continuity test with the Tester to the stator connector to the frame.
if there`s a continuity between any of the 3 white wires to the frame (or ground) = that mean your stator need to be replace.
And If there`s is any continuity between the 3 white wires the stator is burnt and need to be replace.
If the stator is good,
Then the problems is the Regulator Rectifier!!!. If you want to test the regulator rectifier you need a good Tester. A FLUKE 179 tester or higher. The test is called Diode Test, hard to explain, you need to be electric oriented. Ill let the website explain.
Heres the link on how to verify your Regulator Rectifier.
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
And Here the link to the Service Manual Yamaha R1 - 2002 - 2003.
For your info: its stickied on top.!!!
Go to Page 8-23 for Troubleshooting Charging system.
http://www.waxer.com/r1/
The Charging system is only BATTERY, FUSES , WIRES , CONNECTORS, STATOR AND REGULATOR RECTIFIER. You can`t go wrong!!!
HOPE IT HELP:thumbup
What are the settings you should set your tester on to check your stator
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Two ways to check it.
1. Set your meter to Ohms and check the resistance between all three wires, two at a time. Each leg should be .19 to .23 Ohms. Put the leads together and note the reading. Subtract from your stator readings. Also check each leg to ground to make sure none are shorted.
2. Start the bike and check AC Volts between each leg. Should be something like 50 Volts at 5k rpms. Going off memory so it could be a little different.
Mark
1. Set your meter to Ohms and check the resistance between all three wires, two at a time. Each leg should be .19 to .23 Ohms. Put the leads together and note the reading. Subtract from your stator readings. Also check each leg to ground to make sure none are shorted.
2. Start the bike and check AC Volts between each leg. Should be something like 50 Volts at 5k rpms. Going off memory so it could be a little different.
Mark
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