Need all sizes really . There are a lot of different spec bolts on these here scooters.

But you could probably get away with a 3/8 and a 1/2 inch variety.

 

:fact

If you dont tourqe'em to spec your asking for trouble.

 

I would go with a 3/8 in lb and a 1/2 ft lb. That will handle most maint. I would get a halfway decent quality one as some of the real cheap ones sacrifice accuracy

 

im looking a 1/4 torque wrench that goes from 20-200 ft/lbs and a 3/8 torque wrench that goes from 5-80 ft/lbs. I guess ill buy both just to be on the save side.Thanks!

 

I take it you mean a 1/2 that does from 20-200 but yeah that will cover most anything you need :thumbup

 

NO, actually its a 1/4" torque wrench that gives 20-200 ft-lbs

 

A 1/4 torque wrench that does 3x what the 3/8 wrench does? Fill me in. :dunno

you must be thinking 20-200 in-lbs.

 

I'm with you, I don't think the 1/4 drive would take that rating :dunno

 

LOl, just checked the values and it is actually 20-200 in-lbs. :hammer:

 

Better rethink that one :lol

 

Honestly, for our bikes, your better off with a low range 1/4 torque wrench. Most of the bolts range from 5-20 ft-lbs. The low torque specs are where you can get into trouble and over/under torque the bolts. Higher torque specs are easier to guess. The highest torque you will need to use multiple times is the rear axle, and I've always just guessed it. Torque wrenches are not as accurate at their limits, ie don't use a 5-80 ft-lb torque wrench to tighten a 5 ft-lb bolt.

 

:banghead: Well im glad I posted if not i would be buying a 1/4 torque wrench thinking it would cover 20-200 ft-lbs LOL, thanks guys, this is why i LOVE the forum.:boobies

 

I have 3
An in lb one that I need to replace for higher quality. A 10-100lb one and an 80-200lb one. That covers everything

The rear axle is 110ftlbs. That's the only spec over 100 I've run into.

 

I use 3 as well with a dial torque wrench for 0-50 applications.

Remember to educate yourself about how torque numbers should be adjusted depending on how the thread of the bolt is dressed. For example, bolts with anit-seize applied use far less than the recommended torque suggestion. Loc-Tite and oiled threads change the value that should be applied as well.

If you really want to get into it, check out the how many times the bolt can be safely torqued before it should be replaced. It all has to do with the material of the bolt and how much force is being applied. Interesting reads out there if you dig a bit.



Careful with using the factory Yamaha torque specs. They are notoriously high in some cases (the rear spindle nut and sprocket bolts being 2 examples). Harris Performance calls for 60ft lbs on the rear spindle nut to avoid putting to much force on the wheel bearings :thumbup

 

I use a Snap-on 3/8" 75 ft/lbs which covers everything on the bike except for the rear nut. I use my calibrated arm and a breaker bar for that one but not everyone is as talented as me

Mark
99 R1

 

I've had a 3/8" 5-80 ft/lb and 1/2" 25-250 ft/lb for years when messing with snowmobiles. I just recently added a 1/4" 0-60 in/lbs for gun stuff but it would have some uses elsewhere.

Hey, it beats the tighten to you hear a snap then back off a 1/4 turn method.

 

TBH IMO unless you're rebuilding the engine you don't need any torque wrench..

Just tighten bolts snug...snugger if it's something like the axle nut.