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Discussion starter · #1,941 ·
can someone tell me what ohlins shock this is, S46PR1C2LS and if its the better of the two for the 04-06 ?
Worse thing in the world. I'll send you shipping info and $50 via paypal. Just PM me the email address. :secret:

Actually, it's the shock on my 04 R1, and I love it. Of that type of shock I prefer the Graves spec version because they called for a screw for the rebound adjustment rather than the forsaken knob that people with hands like mine can never adjust :rant

But yeah, can't say enough good things about it. I think that was the benchmark shock for all others to emulate. In the years since that model there have been several to match overall performance, but can't go wrong with the original.
 
Worse thing in the world. I'll send you shipping info and $50 via paypal. Just PM me the email address. :secret:

Actually, it's the shock on my 04 R1, and I love it. Of that type of shock I prefer the Graves spec version because they called for a screw for the rebound adjustment rather than the forsaken knob that people with hands like mine can never adjust :rant

But yeah, can't say enough good things about it. I think that was the benchmark shock for all others to emulate. In the years since that model there have been several to match overall performance, but can't go wrong with the original.
:lol

i was hoping youd say that. i know there are two versions but ive heard one is better than the other. pm on the way
 
Well I've read almost every page on here about setting up suspension. Can't find anything about this on the 09 R1. One of Dave's video's said the 09+ R1 has very progressive front springs. So how do you set sag for this?

I've always set my suspension to basically what DanQ quoted from about 3 years ago. Set my sag to 35mm front and rear. That meant full stiff on front preload and stock setting on rear preload. I'm 185lb's without gear.

The other thing I can't find a clear answer on. With my sag settings, I use 3-5 clicks out from full stif on rebound. Some people say this is fine and others say it's dangerous being this far in.

I do like the feel with these settings, but I did try some other settings. One of them was the settings someone posted up in the 09-13 performance group. I do think I liked mine better though.
 
Discussion starter · #1,945 ·
Well I've read almost every page on here about setting up suspension. Can't find anything about this on the 09 R1. One of Dave's video's said the 09+ R1 has very progressive front springs. So how do you set sag for this?

I've always set my suspension to basically what DanQ quoted from about 3 years ago. Set my sag to 35mm front and rear. That meant full stiff on front preload and stock setting on rear preload. I'm 185lb's without gear.

The other thing I can't find a clear answer on. With my sag settings, I use 3-5 clicks out from full stif on rebound. Some people say this is fine and others say it's dangerous being this far in.

I do like the feel with these settings, but I did try some other settings. One of them was the settings someone posted up in the 09-13 performance group. I do think I liked mine better though.
Sorry I didn't catch this sooner. I don't know how no one has answered your question.

To answer part of it, Dave and I discussed this a bit, and they did in fact find the springs to be extremely progressive in the first 1.5 inch of travel, and then became pretty linear. This required a fair amount of preload to avoid the initial brake dive.

I think (because of the overall progressive nature of forks) this makes proper spring choice and accurate oil level even more important. As far as staring sag number; I would still start in the range recommended for the type of use. Future changes will be made from rider feedback, tire wear, lap times etc. Honestly, once I get the geometry where the rider is satisfied, I seldom make changes to sag/preload. The exception being some of the faster guys I work with have come to the realization that they like a little more preload (one or two turns) on banked tracks vice flat tracks with no elevation changes or serious camber.

As far as the damping: I personally don't like to be within the last 3 clicks in either direction (full in, or full out). It doesn't mean throw the forks in the trash and order up some aftermarket, though. If the handling is good at that point, keep note of it. At some point after about a year or so, the oil in your forks will be trashed, or a seal will start to leak, or there will be some reason to have the forks serviced. At this point, strongly consider springs if need be, and having a re-valve performed, to get the sag/preload/and damping to a range where you have a decent amount of clicks in both directions. I like to be close to mid-point in the adjustment range, but it doesn't always happen. So the answers you are getting are correct, in varying degrees. It's not optimal, but if it's working perfectly, then it's acceptable.

Hope this helps.
 
Discussion starter · #1,946 ·
Coming soon... web casts with a reputable tuner

Some of you know that I've been talking to a well known tuner about organizing some motorcycle specific web casts, about once a month starting in November, to discuss things he's learned about our model bike. After about 30-40 minutes of presentation, he will have an "Ask ----" session for 20 minutes or so to allow us to ask any questions we may have on bike setup, from ergonomics to chassis geometry to damping considerations, and anything else control related.

This is really a great opportunity to have dedicated attention of a true suspension genius, and I am looking forward to post more detail very soon. I'll link it in this thread.
 
Sorry I didn't catch this sooner. I don't know how no one has answered your question.

To answer part of it, Dave and I discussed this a bit, and they did in fact find the springs to be extremely progressive in the first 1.5 inch of travel, and then became pretty linear. This required a fair amount of preload to avoid the initial brake dive.

I think (because of the overall progressive nature of forks) this makes proper spring choice and accurate oil level even more important. As far as staring sag number; I would still start in the range recommended for the type of use. Future changes will be made from rider feedback, tire wear, lap times etc. Honestly, once I get the geometry where the rider is satisfied, I seldom make changes to sag/preload. The exception being some of the faster guys I work with have come to the realization that they like a little more preload (one or two turns) on banked tracks vice flat tracks with no elevation changes or serious camber.

As far as the damping: I personally don't like to be within the last 3 clicks in either direction (full in, or full out). It doesn't mean throw the forks in the trash and order up some aftermarket, though. If the handling is good at that point, keep note of it. At some point after about a year or so, the oil in your forks will be trashed, or a seal will start to leak, or there will be some reason to have the forks serviced. At this point, strongly consider springs if need be, and having a re-valve performed, to get the sag/preload/and damping to a range where you have a decent amount of clicks in both directions. I like to be close to mid-point in the adjustment range, but it doesn't always happen. So the answers you are getting are correct, in varying degrees. It's not optimal, but if it's working perfectly, then it's acceptable.

Hope this helps.
Interesting to know about how progressive it is. So really when I'm riding it might be mostly in the "linear" portion of the spring when riding hard.

So I did talk to Dave and he gave me some interesting recommendations for my weight. Seems like he likes to keep the sag in the rear at about 29mm, and front sag little more (maybe 36mm).

That would make sense to me if people are lowering the front of the bike, I would think those sag numbers might kind of give the same effect?

Anyways, thanks for the help!
 
Discussion starter · #1,948 ·
Interesting to know about how progressive it is. So really when I'm riding it might be mostly in the "linear" portion of the spring when riding hard.

So I did talk to Dave and he gave me some interesting recommendations for my weight. Seems like he likes to keep the sag in the rear at about 29mm, and front sag little more (maybe 36mm).

That would make sense to me if people are lowering the front of the bike, I would think those sag numbers might kind of give the same effect?

Anyways, thanks for the help!
Correct on the linearity after the initial progression. Mind you, as you go further in the travel range you will experience more progression due to air pressure build up.

Those numbers are pretty much along the lines I run for some riders, depending on tire size. We run a lot of bikes at 30 rear and 38 front, depending on corning and braking habits. But I've got one we keep at around 30 rear 34 front because he's such a late and hard braker.

The affect would be similar to lowering, although I don't know many folks that are lowering the front on the 09+ bikes. Actually I've seen folks putting on fork extenders so they can raise the front and rear to accommodate the bigger slicks that are available.
 
The suspension on my 05 R1 that I use for track days is really sloppy. Yes it is stock and I am 250-255 with gear. I know the OEm suspesnion can't support that weight. My riding skill on the track is novice/intermediate and last time I went to barber I just didn't feel comfortable with the stock suspension under breaking and entering corners. I wish it would be more stiffer.

Should I avoid paying to adjust the stock suspension and just go with a budget set up like Race Tech and this is what they quoted me. Do I really need all this or just the springs ?

Fork springs $114.99

Fork GV $169.99

Fork seal $18.38

Oil $10.99 per qt x 2

Rear spring $114.99

Rear spring adp. collar $19.99

Rear GV $169.99

Oil $29.99 per qt 1

It all adds up to $606.00
 
The suspension on my 05 R1 that I use for track days is really sloppy. Yes it is stock and I am 250-255 with gear. I know the OEm suspesnion can't support that weight. My riding skill on the track is novice/intermediate and last time I went to barber I just didn't feel comfortable with the stock suspension under breaking and entering corners. I wish it would be more stiffer.

Should I avoid paying to adjust the stock suspension and just go with a budget set up like Race Tech and this is what they quoted me. Do I really need all this or just the springs ?

Fork springs $114.99

Fork GV $169.99

Fork seal $18.38

Oil $10.99 per qt x 2

Rear spring $114.99

Rear spring adp. collar $19.99

Rear GV $169.99

Oil $29.99 per qt 1

It all adds up to $606.00
And they're going to provide the labor?
Sounds like a deal to me.
 
Discussion starter · #1,951 ·
The suspension on my 05 R1 that I use for track days is really sloppy. Yes it is stock and I am 250-255 with gear. I know the OEm suspesnion can't support that weight. My riding skill on the track is novice/intermediate and last time I went to barber I just didn't feel comfortable with the stock suspension under breaking and entering corners. I wish it would be more stiffer.

Should I avoid paying to adjust the stock suspension and just go with a budget set up like Race Tech and this is what they quoted me. Do I really need all this or just the springs ?

Fork springs $114.99
Fork GV $169.99
Fork seal $18.38
Oil $10.99 per qt x 2
Rear spring $114.99
Rear spring adp. collar $19.99
Rear GV $169.99
Oil $29.99 per qt 1
It all adds up to $606.00
I'd jump on that. I get their stuff at dealer discount and I couldn't touch that quote.

Couple of things to consider:

  • there are two sets of valves in your forks: add about $169
  • for the jump in spring, your shock absorber should be revalved
  • since the bike is 7 years old, you should probably get new seals and bushings all around
  • labor on those jobs is about $150 each end
If you'd like to talk to a good Race Tech rep, I can put you in contact with them. But if someone is saying they can do it all for $600, check it out.
 
I heard something interesting the other day...

Tech mentioned to me that while Traxxion is decent, for us heavier riders they tend to have problems in comparison to other brands. Any thoughts on this?

Dan?
 
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I heard something interesting the other day...

Tech mentioned to me that while Traxxion is decent, for us heavier riders they tend to have problems in comparison to other brands. Any thoughts on this?

Dan?
It's partially true, it can be dealt with but for the most part, the smaller orifice of the traxxion system can be detrimental to a heavier rider if the springs aren't exactly right. Been there, done that. Had to mix oil to make the forks work properly.
 
It's partially true, it can be dealt with but for the most part, the smaller orifice of the traxxion system can be detrimental to a heavier rider if the springs aren't exactly right. Been there, done that. Had to mix oil to make the forks work properly.
Interesting. I think that is what he was referring to was the valve/porting sizes and such. Don't recall, was in a bit of a hurry and focusing on another issue. Looks like I have another reason to bust my arse and drop more weight. :cool:
 
Save
Interesting. I think that is what he was referring to was the valve/porting sizes and such. Don't recall, was in a bit of a hurry and focusing on another issue. Looks like I have another reason to bust my arse and drop more weight. :cool:
TRaxxion cart's are 20mm, The previous Ohlins were 25mm, the newer Nix kit is 30mm. In reality, if the shims are set right and stacked for proper flow, there should be little difference. The 25 and 30's will allow a greater amount of adjustment and flow capacity is shimmed and stacked the same as the 20mm.

Max used to have a 20 v 25mm report on his site but took it down a couple months after posting it. His gas charged 20mm kits are still pretty damn slick. I'd go with them over the Ohlins R&T forks.
 
Yeah, don't really plan to get away from Traxxion AK-20's. Just curious to hear it from a source where I'd not heard anything like it before IIRC.
 
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Yeah, don't really plan to get away from Traxxion AK-20's. Just curious to hear it from a source where I'd not heard anything like it before IIRC.
They are better than stock, and the stock 07 forks are pretty darn good. Better than the best kit forks from the 90's. I've been rolling them a while now and they are plenty good enough for an old slow guy like me.
 
I'd jump on that. I get their stuff at dealer discount and I couldn't touch that quote.

Couple of things to consider:

  • there are two sets of valves in your forks: add about $169
  • for the jump in spring, your shock absorber should be revalved
  • since the bike is 7 years old, you should probably get new seals and bushings all around
  • labor on those jobs is about $150 each end
If you'd like to talk to a good Race Tech rep, I can put you in contact with them. But if someone is saying they can do it all for $600, check it out.

Sorry for the confusion, this is for parts only.
 
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