OEM should be fine, thay have done an upgraded Stator I believe

 

I don't know if the 04 has a MOSFET reg/rec, but that would be a worthwhile upgrade. Search for FH020AA.

I'd avoid the aftermarket stuff. It's nearly all Made in China and could be fine or junk.

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I've checked OEM parts and the R/R (part# 5VY-81960-00-00) is priced at $243.47 (yikes!): 2004 Yamaha YZF-R1 (YZFR1S) Electrical 2 | CyclePartsNation Yamaha Parts Nation

I've had no luck finding a name brand MOSFET R/R. Everything I've found is a knock off. Do you know where a no kidding MOSFET can be purchased?

 

Now if you'd searched as I suggested this should have been the first link: Roadstercycle $99.95 The crossplane R1s have these as standard.

It should be plug and play on your bike.

 

The FH020AA is a MOSFET regulator with shunt operation, meaning the stator is always producing full power to the regulator and what is not used for bike operation is shunted to ground. I've used the older FH012 Mosfet on my 99 R1 with good results. But i've been reading about the new series operation regulator, SH847, that can limit the stator output to only what the regulator amperage demand is. Thus the stator is only producing the power that the bike needs, not max power. This will reduce the operation temp of the stator and should increase its life. I've found some good info on line and will probably change to the series regulator this winter. Roadstercycle sell this regulator also.

 

Good info, do you have a link to the 847?

 

I just did a Yahoo search for 'regulator series SH847'. Roadstercycle.com sells the regulator and will answer questions, very helpful.

 

The SH847 is twice the price of the FH0020AA from Roadstercycle. Definitely a better regulator, but the MOSFET one does the job well, certainly better than the OE.

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The shunt MOSFET regulators may have good performance over a factory regulator, but they do not reduce the current draw from the stator. The stator is running full power all the time and this produces a heat load that can cause issues including insulation breakdown and shorts. I believe the benefit of the series regulator is the reduced demand on the stator and therefore a cooler running stator. Replacing a stator can get challenging.
Triumphrat.net has some great info to read. In particular look at 'speed triple forum/ charging system diagnostics - rectifier/regulator upgrade. There are thermal images of a stator showing temperature reduction.

 

NZ R1, I cant find an APE forum, I'd like to read the info there. Do you have a link?

 

Sorry mate, Ape is an abbreviation for Aprilia where I live. This is the link: Facts about shunt-based regulators

The first post is a shocker - half of it is an attempt to illustrate what he's trying to say by using hydraulic rams as an example! But basically, when you short the + side of the coil to ground like a shunt regulator does, then you get varying eddy currents in the coil as the stator rotates, not the full generator output.

These eddy currents will still cause heating in the stator, but not as much as you would expect.

 

Thanks for the technical info, very good reading. It's a lot to digest!

 

After reading the Aprilia post 'Facts about shunt-based regulators', i realize the subject is more complex than I originally thought. I have doubts about the series SH847 being the best solution for prolonging stator life on my 99 R1. I'm going to keep the FH012AA shunt regulator installed for now and watch for new info on the subject.

 

Has the stator in your bike failed? Mine survived a RR problem, and I even removed the engine cover to look for any burnt coils.

My thinking is if the stator survived the OE RR for so many years, it should last forever with a MOSFET one.

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No stator failure yet, just trying to prevent it from happening. I've read the stator removal is difficult.

 

Here's some interesting info from another forum. Given that the bike is a Magna, the OE RR is almost certain to be a SCR shunt type. I would expect the current through a MOSFET shunt RR to be lower because they switch faster and have much lower resistance in shunt mode, so probably somewhere in between the readings below.

Link: Oem R/R (shunt) vs SH847 (serial) - V4MuscleBike.com

This weekend I finally got around to installing the Shindengen SH847 Suzuki RECTIFIER ASSY (32800-31J00).
This is the serial or open R/R used on 2014 and later V-Strom 1000.
It is 50 amp version versus the 35 amp SH775 and the 30 amp oem Magna R/R.
In order to compare the SH847 to the oem R/R, I used an True RMS clamp style meter on one of the stator wires for both R/Rs.


Oem R/R
Idle 7 amp AC
2k 15 amp AC
3k 18 amp AC
4k 18 amp AC
5k 19 amp AC
6k 20 amp AC

SH847 R/R
Idle 9 amp AC
2k 10 amp AC
3k 11 amp AC
4k 12 amp AC
5k 12 amp AC
6k 12 amp AC​