wow thats interesting! Don't have an answer for you but hopefully somebody will.

 

did you turn all the tc stuff off when you did the dyno runs?

 

04 will produce more power being a i4 screamer but you would think the r1m would beat it in torque.

 

Since it being an unrestricted bike unlike over here in the US, you should definitely be up around 175-180 rwhp

 

Ummmmm, I agree, strange. Here in the UK most standard 2015/2016 R1's seem to manage around 185bhp on the dyno.

 

This is my opinion. I had both of these bikes. The R1M is way more restricted than the 04 r1. The cat on the bottom of the R1M is the size of a small garbage can.

 

well other guys have posted dyno sheets that have 175-180 removing the noise restrictions and leaving the stock can and map in place. the stock map doesn't even open the throttle 100% for a good portion of the power band in some areas. you can see this with the FTECU software.

my buddy that owns a 04 R1 rode mine and said it for sure has more power it seems to him. then again his has a lot of miles and not very well taken care of.

if the OP ran it with the TC on that could be the reason it was down on power. or...he has a bum engine and need to get the compression checked.

 

The figures are true Rear wheel HP... Not calculated or Crank Calculated

TC was off... But i do believe Lift and Slide were still on..
I can't find my Dyno run with the AFR on it... Its not a pretty picture.
Looking back on FB this is what i wrote straight after doing it..

The AFR started at 17 at idle. Then operator does his thing and tries to start the run when AFR is near the 13.1 mark. It immediately goes lean (around 16-17) till about 7,500 RPM after that it sits between 14-15 then around 12,500rpm it starts to run rich dropping from 14 right down to 12.5 till rev limiter.
When he just did a run through the gears accelerating (as if on road) at 60, 80 and 100kmh AFR was a lot better sitting at around 13.5-14.5. Then when at those speeds backing off it would run richer, accelerating it would lean out.

Dyno operator actually said he could feel it wasn't giving its all, said TPS wasn't true and that as he put more throttle on he could feel the bike pulling it back. He seemed to think that the AFR sensor is out of callibration... In fact he felt certain..
It also had a RS10R on it at low PSI...34.. :eek5:
Here are videos of the two power runs.
https://www.facebook.com/256944304332898/videos/1294987520528566/

https://www.facebook.com/256944304332898/videos/1294987503861901/

 

well unless you installed smog block offs you're not going to get an accurate a/f reading.
plus the bike stock uses the 02 sensor and goes into closed loop. which means it adjusts the A/F ratio. unless bikes are wildly different than a car this is how the systems work.

 

The O2 sensors are narrow band.. The way i understand it they arnt
adjusting anything over 10% throttle...
Please correct me if im wrong as id love to know for sure

 

Usually the stock sensors are narrowband and only adjust idle. It sounds like he is reffering to the wideband that's attached to the dyno since it was showing on his other dyno charts. The sensor must be out of calibration 17afr wouldn't idle and the other numbers are too lean so something would be very wrong with your bike if those were accurate although still having the block off plates installed would affect afr reading I dont know which way. Slide control and lift control won't affect dyno only traction control. I dont know how many kilometers are on your 15 but it will increase power as the engine breaks in and feel stronger. It almost looks like the rpms were calibrated slightly off on the dyno like the graph should be shifted slightly I know my 15 feels stronger everywhere then older models, I can't imagine the 15 does less everywhere then an 04 with such a short mod list. I guess you won't know till you start opening her up and get some proper tuning going on.*

 

I know its not fair to compare a fairly modded bike to a stock one but i would've bet anything the M wouldve annihilated the 04 even with all those mods.

 

Either something is seriously wrong with your bike or your dyno operator is doing something seriously wrong. Your Aussie spec bike is the same spec as any European bike. It should produce MINIMUM 185 rwhp - any day in any dyno.

 

Yeah, only that the bike ignores feedback after 5500 rpm. This is what causes the choppy throttle that everyone feels when coasting between 5000 and 6000 rpm. The ecu going from feedback to no feedback. Disabling this smooths out the throttle a bit.

The reason why auto makers don't put wide bands in their vehicles are one of two reasons.

1 - cost... They are slightly more expensive than their narrowband cousins

2. Reliability. After about one years use and oxidation, the catalyst being used to change the resistance oxidizes to the point that it begins reading out of range. Therefore no manufacturer wants to spend more money on something that won't last as long. That's a liability for them, and they would rather not risk a recall. Recalls to a manufacturer is lost money revenue and profits.

If you purchase any wideband, the manufacturer will recommend that you change the O2 sensor every 1-2 years.

You don't have to take my word for it. Google will tell you what I already have ?️


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Wait i am pretty sure they use wideband sensors. I have a live data scan tool and can see my truck adjust the fuel trims in % as i drive. Also i can see the reading of all 3 sensors. They all jump around feom 100 to 900 or so rapidly. They also use a heater type which i am told is only wideband sensors use.
That would not be a wideband?

 

Ok it looks like most cars are using the narrow band sensor. But my truck for sure is adjusting fuel trims as i drive. I can upload a video of it.

 

Regular driving still uses narrow band sensors. It's under heavy/WOT that it uses the stored fuel trims. There are a couple forced induction performance vehicles that use widebands now, but I'd bet a large sum your pickup truck does not.

 

Nothing wrong with it at all. Dyno numbers are subjective and mean nothing really. The figures are reading true numbers. I can only assume it is not a dynojet duno? Dyno dynamics or mainline Dyno?

mine made 157rwhp stock and 167rwhp tuned
But on a dynojet makes 196 estimated crank

 

Tapatalk on my phone lol.

Also I believe the map sensor on this bike is a combo unit that also senses air temp.


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There is an air intake temp sensor on the airbox.
I do believe. Been a while since i had my tank off.
Map sensors work off of engine vacuum

 

My graph

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You HAVE to turn everything off.
All electronics.

Needs to be in A mode with power in 1.

 

And also need to strap the rear of the bike down and maybe sit on top of it also.
These bikes will spin the tire on the dyno, if ur spinning, ur not working the dyno.

 

161....ouch!

 

Oh wow! The amount ive learnt since this post...
Three things,..
Its a very very low reading dyno..
My R1M ended up hitting high 180s.. At a dyno shot out day i got done by .6 of a HP... Damn Ninja H2.. yeh!
Both my bikes the 04 and R1m are freaks.. the 04 probably more so when comparing it to other bikes from the same years on that dyno nothing comes close.
I ended up buy a 2016 as well and that bike would only get to within 11 HP of the R1m.. i spent twice the time tuning that..