Pressure test the cooling system and see if there is anything obvious; guessing you won't find anything.

Then pressure test and leak down test all four cylinders; the results can differ. I'd guess that's when you'd come across your next diagnostic step.

If there is no physical impact or brittle hoses; sounds like your getting combustion pressures in your cooling system. Your head gasket would go before your cylinder head; but I have been surprised before.


There may be a more simpler step before the leak / comp tests; just wait and see what the rest of the form has experienced

 

Pressure test the cooling system and see if there is anything obvious; guessing you won't find anything.

Then pressure test and leak down test all four cylinders; the results can differ. I'd guess that's when you'd come across your next diagnostic step.

If there is no physical impact or brittle hoses; sounds like your getting combustion pressures in your cooling system. Your head gasket would go before your cylinder head; but I have been surprised before.


There may be a more simpler step before the leak / comp tests; just wait and see what the rest of the form has experienced

Thank you, but should the water/oil pump be rebuilt as well? On an old bike the seals bearings can wear out. It was sitting for a long time possibly outside in a harsh climate, Norway.

 

Depends on your budget : time ratio.

The oil pump requires removing the timing chain, very big job; very scary part to fail, symptoms would be different as there is no coolant near it.

The water pump is its own thing; just clean her up and she's probably ok. No oil flows around the water pump.

Pretty much goes from rad to pump to engine. Around cylinder walls and through head then back to rad.

No stock system I'm aware of has a oil cooler (and I know very little, just friendly)

Wish I could be more help, but glad to brainstorm with you


Edit: I'm not deleting this as I've never personally been that deep in this engine. But at the same time, everyone seems to say I'm wrong about how the internals work on this engine lol...

 

Depends on your budget : time ratio.

The oil pump requires removing the timing chain, very big job; very scary part to fail, symptoms would be different as there is no coolant near it.

The water pump is its own thing; just clean her up and she's probably ok. No oil flows around the water pump.

Pretty much goes from rad to pump to engine. Around cylinder walls and through head then back to rad.

No stock system I'm aware of has a oil cooler (and I know very little, just friendly)

Wish I could be more help, but glad to brainstorm with you

I'm a little confused on your "water pump is its own thing"? Water pump/oil pump are the same unit with a seal in between. No big deal to drop pan and remove unit. It does not require you to remove the timing chain. With that being said, I doubt your pump seal is bad . Also, your radiator is not your oil/water problem. I would think top end first but I could be wrong.

Mark

 

I will first try to locate a combustion test kit so its possible to determine if combustion gases get into the radiator, indicating a blown head gasket.

 

7 Different Ways a Head Gasket Can Fail - Haynes Manuals

Discover 7 different ways a head gasket can fail. Explore Haynes' tips and tutorials to identify, prevent, and address head gasket issues.

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3) Water to oil leak
If the head gasket fails between an oil gallery and a water passage it will allow the engine oil and coolant to mix. This will result in contaminated oil (the white milky sludge or "milk shake" associated with a blown head gasket) and a compromise the cooling system.

4) Compression leak between cylinders
If the gasket fails across the fire rings it can allow the compression to leak from one cylinder to the next. This causes a loss of compression, and sometimes allows exhaust gasses back into the intake, depending on cam timing. This sort of head gasket leak typically results in rough running, misfires, and a loss of power.

 

Iv recently put my bike back on the road same pump as yours it was stood for 11yrs and no rust inside clutch so I’d say coolants been in there a while.All my O-Rings were perished I’m betting on yours are done too the coolant pipe next to your oil filter on the front has 2 orings on it,it’s quite long and pushes into the pump inside your engine that is not on the pic also the 2 orings on ya coolant pipes on your rocker cover will have perished and need replacing not a difficult job and may not be your specific issue but that’s where your coolant could have been leaking into your oil

 

I pulled the clutch, some surface rust on the outer disc and the friction plates and steel plates were completely stuck together, so I wiped everything, put friction plates in new oil and sanded down the steel plates with a 2000 grit paper to make the surface smooth again. Other than that all looks okay. I will pull the oil and water pump next few days. I see they have used gasket cement instead of gaskets a few places, like the oil pan and right hand side panel next to the clutch. The clutch side springs are all a bit loose, only one is tight so I expect some rattle noises.

 

The bike has been inactive for at least 2.5 years, the coolant mix happened recently as this summer had visible black oil in the looking glass. I agree that replacing o rings is important, first step is to replace the oil and filter, then cylinder head gasket as problem will likely persist.
As it has been hard to cold start and now the milky mix I think head gasket has failed numerous places.

Thank you very much for your input.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread so to speak, but the only oil pumps I've seen are driven by the timing chain; but I've only seen automotive oil pumps. Is this bike specific or are oil pumps on bikes different? I'll probably slap a new oil pump in my R1 once every 5 years just as PM if it's that simple 😆

 

This r1 oil and water pump are combined and located in oil pan and connected to the timing chain behind the clutch, but I guess you know already.

 

Bought a wrecked bike and after starting it up, the dreaded coolant in oil problem has occured. The radiator was leaking in several places and also on right hand side where large tube is connected.
Cannot see that the head gasket is leaking, wonder if it can be water pump/oil pump or oil cooler.
Have emptied the oil and will replace the radiator. Is it possible that the the radiator system can suck in air creating too much pressure and it goes into the oil? Or is it a bad seal/ head gasket. I see some posts have cracked heads.
What steps should I do to first to last to resolve the issue?
Will an engine cleaner in the oil remove most of the oil/coolant mix and then put new oil in there.

Hey, good news man. i completely forgot when i got my first bike i had the same thing. apparantly sport bike oils just turn that color after a while. do an oil change and its probably fine. sorry i took so long to remember, but its been like 3 years since i got my first bike

 

Thank you. Will give it a try. Bike had been sitting for a long time.