Stock air filter is fine even with a full system. If you still want an aftermarket filter BMC or Pipercross > K&N.

A custom dyno tune is superior to any mail-in ECU flash tune.

I would definitely set the suspension before anything else though. But that's just me.

 

Thanks for the advice. I've looked around and have found a couple recommended suspension settings for my weight, so I'll be giving those a try in an attempt to dial it in.

As far as the dyno tune, is it a similar idea though? Complete all of my mods, get a custom dyno tune, then pick up the Power Commander setup to auto-tune as I ride? Also, does a custom dyno tune typically "unlock" the ECU, and address the rev-limiter and speed limiter, like I've read some of the other services do? If so, I guess my next step will be trying to find recommended tuners local to me.

BMC is good, i've got an K&N and its 'okay'; picked it up on a jam readying for a trip. Its re-usable & convenient.

I had BMC on the R6, it was good :thumbup

I'm all about convenience. And I do like having the ability to wash it and go. As long as it flows more air than stock, it'll work for me. If both of you recommend BMC though, I may look in to it.

 

BMC is good, i've got an K&N and its 'okay'; picked it up on a jam readying for a trip. Its re-usable & convenient.

I had BMC on the R6, it was good :thumbup

 

Ive had good outcomes from flashing ECU to remove restrictions, and change a few settings, then getting a custom dyno tune as well.

as with above, custom tune is going to be better for your engine than jut a flash, but a tune cant do some of the things a flash can.

If you arent racing, your best bang for buck is probably just getting power commander and autotune IMO.

 

I do plan on running a handful of track days a year, but I won't be racing competitively. With that being said, I'm not opposed to going all out as far as tuning goes, if it optimizes how the engine runs and increases longevity. It sounds like the first gen crossplane is fairly bulletproof as is, but a bit extra couldn't hurt.

I currently have a BMC filter on my R1. I think that i’ve heard that sprint filters are the best, but you WILL pay for it. The Graves exhaust is a very nice system, but are you getting it for function, or looks?

Just asking because it’s a ton of money. You could by a M4 3/4 system for a lot less (or equivalent) and put the extra money into something else.

If your going to replace the air filter, you might as well do the block off plates, and airbox mod.

Do the 520 chain conversion also (if your not worried about losing top end speed).

I've never heard of the sprint filters. I'll do some research on those.

I'm getting it mostly for the function, and let's be honest, the sound. I fell in love with the crossplane sound the first time I heard it, so I want the engine to breathe as freely as possible. Having said that, I have a lead on a mint condition used system for around $1,100 off MSRP, so that mitigates the cost a bit. The bike I'm picking up also has a mint slip-on system on it that I can sell to offset the cost a bit more. Along with that, I did plan on block off plates. I'm not familiar with the airbox mod though? If you care to touch on what that entails, I'm all ears, otherwise I'm sure I can track it down with the search function!

I'll also research the chain conversion. The bike will live on the street 95% of the time, and will eat up a lot of highway miles.

i've just had some headwork done & Graves Camshafts will be installed, I will be switching to BMC to compliment the work :yesnod

BMC - FM553/04RACE

Good deal! I just realized that the BMC race filter is washable/reusable as well (if I read the description correctly), so I may just go that route to start with. I tend to default to K&N for all of my filtration needs, as I've personally never had any issues, but if another brand comes recommended highly I'm certainly willing to give it a try.

:beerchug:

 

I currently have a BMC filter on my R1. I think that i’ve heard that sprint filters are the best, but you WILL pay for it. The Graves exhaust is a very nice system, but are you getting it for function, or looks?

Just asking because it’s a ton of money. You could by a M4 3/4 system for a lot less (or equivalent) and put the extra money into something else.

If your going to replace the air filter, you might as well do the block off plates, and airbox mod.

Do the 520 chain conversion also (if your not worried about losing top end speed).

 

Here's the airbox mod:

 

Sprint race filter is a great filter.
No washing or oiling needed.

Take it out every few months and blow it out backways with an airline.
Pop it back in,job done.

 

...would a PC V, Secondary Fuel Module, and AutoTune combo be the best way to go? Will all of those products interface properly and not override each other? Would I need to modify the Graves system at all, or is it ready to accept the Power Commander setup?...

I have a few lingering questions from the last part of my original post that I don't think were touched on. From the answers so far, it sounds like an ECU flash followed by a custom dyno tune is the best way to go, so that's a great place to start. With that being said:

-For the custom dyno tune, do I need a PC in order to make that happen, or do they plug in to and tune the ECU directly?
-If I do need the PC, are the secondary fuel module and the autotune recommended to keep the new dyno tune dialed in?
-Would the dyno tune interfere with any of the "unlocked" features of the flashed ECU?

Sorry again for the ignorance. I appreciate all of the advice so far!

 

partly answering your questions.

In order to tune you have two options.
1) buy power commander and tune with that
2) Buy the flash tune kit, remove / add / edit the functions you want, then go to a dyno tuner who is familiar with flashtune and have them make your custom map.

Powercommander cheaper for 2 reasons - lower initial cost, and PC allows you to make adjustments on the fly, flashtune you do a run, read the graphs, turn bike off, plug in, make change, run again - so takes a little longer on the dyno.

additionally - Flashtune also offers autotune add-ons, so you can buy a powercommander and powercommander autotune, or you can buy a flashtune harness kit and a flashtune autotune.

autotune of either variety has some benefits, but it depends on your use. you can eternally be using autotune, but its designed to optimise based on input - which means that if you ride slowly on monday, autotune will encourage canges based on that riding style, and then you ride hard on wednesday, so autontune encourages changes based on wednesdays riding style, then you ride conservatively on friday and the autotune takes you back again because youre riding like you were on monday.

Getting the 'perfect' or 'ultimate' tune with autotune requires riding consistently.

In my opinion (just my opinion!) if you did say, some road riding, and some track riding, you could just get a good tune and ride the bike anywhere (either on flashtune or on powercommander products)

OR

you could go to a tuner (again, either with powercommander OR flashtune type products) and get them to give you two different tunes, a road tune and a race tune, and just use your laptop to upload whichever you require at a given time.

dunno if Ive helped or confused it more but thats my thoughts

forgive the spelling, I've been drinking

 

Haha, no worries. Thanks for the response! All of that was very helpful.

Sorry for all of the questions:

-I wasn't able to find an auto-tune option for Flash Tune for the pre-2015 R1s. Any idea if the one Yamaha auto-tune kit that they do have on their site is compatible with the '09-'14? (This may be a question for the company itself)
-Will the flash tune setup work with all 8 injectors? I know with the power commander, the dynojet secondary fuel module is required in order to connect to and tune the upper injector rail.

Thanks again for the advice!

 

id ask those questions directly of FT.
Ive only used kits on an '08 R1 and a '13 R6, so id check directly for model specifics