Any links to a useful article would also be appreciated.

 

If I bought the 07, this is what I would do. Since this is your bike, you decide. Here is the info for your review:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

If I bought the 07, this is what I would do. Since this is your bike, you decide. Here is the info for your review:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

:stpd: This is the way to go...

 

The dealer as well as the manual says to just vary the rpm throughout the gears not exceeding 7k for too long for the first 600 miles then to 8200 (I think) till you get to 1000 miles.

 

..they say you can exceed 7K but not for too long...your perfect opportunity to get the engine set in right..read above. Did this and have no complaint, except from my friends who go :scared, and wonder why my bike is so much faster than theirs with same mods and rider weight.

The key is heat cycling and engine rev up and engine rev down.

 

so much info on this its not funny. do search and you will find 1000's of answers. alot do mototune method. do search and you will find it as well. here is most important thing. new motor has lots sharp little things in tranny and so on. book says change oil at 600 miles. best bet is to ride it 40-50 miles and change it. get that cheap breakin oil out of it, along with all metal stuff quickly. most will say take it easy first 100 miles. you can get it over 7k rpms, but not substained rpms. you can roll up to 8,9, or 10k or higher..just do it for quick bit. also worse thing for motor is same RPM substained. so dont go down highway at 70 mph for 60 miles. ride around town or vary speed and RPMS for first 50-60 miles. change oil...please... you will be happier in long run. and those little bits dont have chance to float around in your motor for 600 miles.

 

so much info on this its not funny. do search and you will find 1000's of answers. alot do mototune method. do search and you will find it as well. here is most important thing. new motor has lots sharp little things in tranny and so on. book says change oil at 600 miles. best bet is to ride it 40-50 miles and change it. get that cheap breakin oil out of it, along with all metal stuff quickly. most will say take it easy first 100 miles. you can get it over 7k rpms, but not substained rpms. you can roll up to 8,9, or 10k or higher..just do it for quick bit. also worse thing for motor is same RPM substained. so dont go down highway at 70 mph for 60 miles. ride around town or vary speed and RPMS for first 50-60 miles. change oil...please... you will be happier in long run. and those little bits dont have chance to float around in your motor for 600 miles.

I think your idea of changing the oil after 50 miles is a very good one. I was told that they do not use break in oil any more. Do you know for a fact that they still do.

 

I ride mine moderate till 400 miles, taking it to the limit for very short amounts of time. Mainly keeping it under or around 7k. The key to a Break-in is Heat cycles, Change the oil at 400 miles. After that after that My bike is Broke-in.

 

balls to the wall from the start.

 

Shake and Bake!
Floor it from the get-go. It's under warranty. Better for it to brake now then later when your warranty is up.

 

take the bike straight to a trackday, if it breaks it breaks, thats what the warranty is for

 

on my 04, i rode it around after letting it get 2 heat cycles and cooling completely off overnight. then i put 42 miles on it, dumped oil, changed oil and filter. took it straight to dyno for 3 pulls. it made 148.97 with 42 miles on it( at high elevation). then sent swingarm off for 6 weeks getting done and put nitrous kit on. then had 100 miles or so on it and took it back to dyno to test nitrous.. it made 217 with controller set at 60%. bike picked up some power after 1200 miles and i am assuming finally broke in. and it will be back on dyno shortly. pretty much used mototune method(xcept nitrous) and bike has been so solid for 3 years.

 

Well my dealer told me to take it easy for the first 80 - 100 miles and stay below 6000rpm, then gradually work up from there. I did get a reply on the oil used which the dealer says to service the bike at 600 miles. Well here is what I was emailed and see what you think.

-Alright, I'll try to keep this short but effective. First, you haven't screwed anything up. The basics: When an engine is assembled, it is put together with a pre-lube, which is like a grease (very thick). The oil that is initially used in the bike is a very light weight oil known as 'breakin oil'. One of main jobs of the breakin oil is to help clear all the pre-lube out of the engine. While all this is taking place, the first 10 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles whatever are the most important in determining how well things are going to work (power, oil consumption, etc.) and how long it will last (longevity). What break-in really is: the process by which all the newly machined parts get used to each other and 'learn' to work together. It is like all the parts in the engine are sanding themselves against eachother. In the first few miles a tremendous (and I mean more than will take place in the rest of the lifetime of the bike) amount of wear takes place. That is why the 'hows' of break-in are so important. All the 'sanded' particles end up circulating in the oil in this most important period of break-in.
I have a very nice '04. When I purchased it, I bought oil and filter at the ame time. I heat cycled the engine at the dealer a couple of times. I rode it home the 'proper' way (if you read Mototune then you know what I am talking about) and changed the oil at 42 miles.
The oil during the first oil change will come out looking like a metal-flake paint job.
The bottom line is: Change the oil as soon as possible. The sooner the better. Tell the guy at the dealer that you understand that the recommended change is at 600 miles, but you would like to do it sooner (now). Tell them you will bring it back for the 600 service too (and do). The second oil change is the second most important as a high level of wear will contine for about a thousand miles.
Make sure that Yamalube 10-40 is used with a Yamaha filter.
After the initial break-in we can talk more about service intervals and other hop up goodies.
Remember: No Synthetic yet! only dino oil. -

 

Well my dealer told me to take it easy for the first 80 - 100 miles and stay below 6000rpm, then gradually work up from there. I did get a reply on the oil used which the dealer says to service the bike at 600 miles. Well here is what I was emailed and see what you think.

-Alright, I'll try to keep this short but effective. First, you haven't screwed anything up. The basics: When an engine is assembled, it is put together with a pre-lube, which is like a grease (very thick). The oil that is initially used in the bike is a very light weight oil known as 'breakin oil'. One of main jobs of the breakin oil is to help clear all the pre-lube out of the engine. While all this is taking place, the first 10 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles whatever are the most important in determining how well things are going to work (power, oil consumption, etc.) and how long it will last (longevity). What break-in really is: the process by which all the newly machined parts get used to each other and 'learn' to work together. It is like all the parts in the engine are sanding themselves against eachother. In the first few miles a tremendous (and I mean more than will take place in the rest of the lifetime of the bike) amount of wear takes place. That is why the 'hows' of break-in are so important. All the 'sanded' particles end up circulating in the oil in this most important period of break-in.
I have a very nice '04. When I purchased it, I bought oil and filter at the ame time. I heat cycled the engine at the dealer a couple of times. I rode it home the 'proper' way (if you read Mototune then you know what I am talking about) and changed the oil at 42 miles.
The oil during the first oil change will come out looking like a metal-flake paint job.
The bottom line is: Change the oil as soon as possible. The sooner the better. Tell the guy at the dealer that you understand that the recommended change is at 600 miles, but you would like to do it sooner (now). Tell them you will bring it back for the 600 service too (and do). The second oil change is the second most important as a high level of wear will contine for about a thousand miles.
Make sure that Yamalube 10-40 is used with a Yamaha filter.
After the initial break-in we can talk more about service intervals and other hop up goodies.
Remember: No Synthetic yet! only dino oil. -

Hey John, that's me...:crash

 

I decided to break in my '06 R6 the Mototune method. I changed to oil at 25 miles and did some high rpm runs and cooling off {lower rpm's} during that 25mile ride. I even use the same oil he says to. I feel I got a very good seat on the piston rings. From what he says you only have a very small window of time to do that. I'm not a mechanic, but the bike pulls like crazy. I've got 1800 miles on the it now.

 

Hey Skeet! Ya did good man.

Oh, and I am a mechanic... haha, just had to say that.
Hence, my outrageous screen name.

 

I did a search for threads on breaking in a new bike but didnt find much.

:lol



:dundun:

 

put it on a rear stand and front stand and go through all the gears

lol

never tried that method

 

That wont put enough load on the engine.

 

Break it in the way you want it to run later....I usually give a bike 50 miles and they I ride it pretty hard...I don't redline the piss out of it, but i'm all over the rev ranges.

 

rev it to redline to see if the auto shutoff works....if not then its broken

 

Followed the advice on this thread and just had my oil changed this morning at the 198mile mark

 

Well you can break it in the mototuneway and try to squeeze ONE extra HP out of it and sacrifice the integrity of your engine. Or you can break it in by the book. For some reason, lots of people think the mototune way is GOD. Well its not. Infact I don't know any club racers who have ever broken their bike in that way.

 

Well you can break it in the mototuneway and try to squeeze ONE extra HP out of it and sacrifice the integrity of your engine. Or you can break it in by the book. For some reason, lots of people think the mototune way is GOD. Well its not. Infact I don't know any club racers who have ever broken their bike in that way.

I guess everyone will have their opinion...

 

to each their own. I have seen numerous bike broken in differently with no hp differences favoring beat the crap of it. Everyone has their own way. its all theory. All the bikes i have bought, which is 4 liter bikes brand new, I have broken in by the book, fairly close anyway, and dynoed them at around 3k miles when i mod it up and before touching the engine. my 04 r1 pulled 160 at the rear aside a gixxer 051k who pulled 159. Both bone stock.

Again to each their own, but if I were to drop 11 grand on a bike, i think i would break it in easy. Motorcyclist did a great write up on how to break a bike in i think early last year. Read the issue, its pretty good.

 

I have broken in by the book, fairly close anyway, and dynoed them at around 3k miles when i mod it up and before touching the engine. my 04 r1 pulled 160 at the rear aside a gixxer 051k who pulled 159. Both bone stock.

ok so post up dyno sheet of bone stock R1 putting out 160. i would say that is happy dyno. but i would still like to see sheet. How do you think race teams break in motors? you think they ride them for 600 miles nice and easy, change oil, then ride another 1500 or so before hammering on it? but please share your dyno sheet with us.

 

God this again... :lol

I'm tired of arguing
You know this is pure statistical probability in action. No matter how correct or incorrect the information, people will swear to their dying breath on what they think is correct.

BTW- I also subscribe to the mototune method though my problem is I buy my bikes used. I'm going to build a 2001 motor with a new crankcase and head though the internals are a hodge podge from Flebay. Will see how it goes... :thumbup

 

next comes the argument, well race teams have the luxury to rebuil their engines after every race... :lol

 

Why would they need to, i am sure the engines will last years by beating the crap out of it to break it in......

 

Someone should take this one to Myth Busters...

 

:stpd:



you know I hate that show but this would actually be pretty cool..mototune method vs. manual

 

you're using logical deduction without any first hand evidence. If you notice, all of these guys that put major load on the bikes from the beginning are either racers or mechanics. Placing faith in the owners manual without questioning the premise is dumb faith. Unless you yourself have broken in the engine the factory way and then take apart the crankcase to examine the outcome and again compare. Please do so before being an avid proponent.

 

you're using logical deduction without any first hand evidence. If you notice, all of these guys that put major load on the bikes from the beginning are either racers or mechanics. Placing faith in the owners manual without questioning the premise is dumb faith. Unless you yourself have broken in the engine the factory way and then take apart the crankcase to examine the outcome and again compare. Please do so before being an avid proponent.

Yeah I am sure the owners manual way of breaking in a bike is to destroy the engine and give the bike less power. I mean shoot, the faster the engine blows up, the faster you buy a new bike right? Now that seems a little DUMB to believe that.

I don't beleive in breaking the bike in strictly by the book. But on the dyno is a little extreme. Somewhere in the middle with varying loads, speeds, and heat cycles is the best in my mind. You don't have to like it, I don't care. Just my two cents.

Should we continue to beat the dead horse, or should just do a cut and past from previous discussions from the begining of time.

 

i would really like to see your dyno sheet making 160 using your method.

 

I got on mine hard a few times, accelerated, decelerated, ect, ect. I had the oil changed at 300 miles. Everyone has there own way of doing it. I don't think that anyway is wrong or anyway is right. Now if you redline it or something like that then that's crazy. Try not to get stuck on dyno #'s. If your bike makes 155 and someone elses makes 160 is that really a big deal? A 5, 10, even 15 hp difference isn't something a good rider couldn't overcome IMHO. You could have all the hp in world but if you dont know what to do with it you will lose.

 

Everyone has there own way of doing it. I don't think that anyway is wrong or anyway is right.

This comment doesn't make sense either. We are looking for 2 identifiable facts. Power and wear which are the result of ring seal. The 2 breakin methods are diametrically opposite to each other. So by pure logic either one is right and the other wrong OR both are wrong and something in between is right. It seems like then Ironman157's method is somewhere in between as well as yours. Then if your method is right you should have the most gain and the best seal. This is the fundamental question we are trying to answer. What brings the best seal of piston rings... going hard or going easy. The only problem is that it takes a lot of money, time and labor to find a true answer. But until you crack your engine in a years time to do a rebuild and find it to be in almost new condition that mototune says his method does. Your method is far more in doubt as you lack the engineering facilities that the factory method is based on or the hard evidence of pistons after cracking a cylinder head the mototune way.

 

Break it in like its stollen!!!!!!!!!!! 9000 miles on my 05 R1 and no problems. Road it hard from about 200 miles on!!!!!!!

 

Ok, I was going to stay out of these 'break-in' threads just because you can never convice people one way or the other. I'm not going to give an opinion but will only state what I've experienced. Just a little background note: I've been wrenchin' on bikes since I was 8 and have a BS in Mechanical Engineering.

I used to break in bikes by the book (the most recent was the '97YZF1000) but when I bought my '02 I didn't get the chance to take it easy for the first 600miles. I live 40 miles from the dealer and a friend on a Kawi ZX followed me and the g/f to the dealership to pick up the bike so we could ride together on the way home. Bought oil and a filter for the first change, put it in the car and sent the g/f on her way. My buddy was of the break-it-in-like-your-going-to-ride-it school of break ins. Well I couldn't let him romp me on the ride back so I was gettin' on it over the back roads almost all the way home. I was really damn worried about the motor too. I changed the oil with 45 miles on the clock as soon as I got home.

Race season was about to start and the weather was crappy so I only got a couple short rides in before the first race (drag). The bike only had 110 miles on it when I made the first pass. Basically I was cycling the engine, a hard run, two-hour cooldown between runs.

Due to the weather I didn't get 600 miles on the bike until almost mid season and had about 40 passes on the strip. At the end of the season I pulled the head off the motor because I was really worried that I didn't break it in right and wanted a look-see. I was really suprised to find that it looked way better than the '97 did (I took that motor apart to clean up and polish the heads), I mean I was freakin' shocked at how good it looked. I didn't find the mototune method site until almost a year later but I had broken it in basically how it was suggested on the site.

So, no opinion from me but fact is, I will be breaking in the '07 the same way I broke in the '02. Ya'll go with whatever method you feel comfortable with.