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Can R1's drag race?

23K views 96 replies 28 participants last post by  TINY 03 R1  
#1 ·
I'm a huge motorcycle drag racing fan and can't help but notice the absence of the R1. What's the issue? Are the performance upgrades too expensive or do they even make the proper upgrades for the R1 to compete with the Suz's and Kaw's?
 
#2 ·
The aftermarket isn't close to as big for us Yamaha guys. Really the only modern liter bike with a lot of drag racing support is the GSXR, then of course the busa and zx14 have tons of aftermarket stuff available. The R1 is really designed to turn, doesn't have the heartiest powerplant (regardless of the year), especially compared to Suzuki bikes, and that's really why you don't see many guys drag racing them.

Parts are expensive, harder to find, and you still aren't likely to go as fast as a Suk or Kawi for the same price invested.
 
#3 ·
I disagree. Yamaha's aren't made for drag racing but they can do just as well as GSXR or Kaw. I've beaten both. It's really about the rider. My times are just as good as their on motor. Parts are hard to come by. You don't really need much though.
 
#4 ·
Uhm, that's exactly what I said! They aren't made for it, but can be - but the reason you don't see as many is because A) parts are harder to come by/more expensive, B) they don't respond as well to power mods, C) Suz/Kawi do have/have had factory support for professional drag race programs for decades, Yamaha has not.
 
#7 ·
I race my R1 just about every week. To be completely honest the only part I have a problem with is the clutch. I have to replace it at least once a year if not more. R1's have more than enough power to compete with GSXR's and Kawi's. The absence of Yamaha's on the drag strip is exactly why I race one. Everybody see's a Yamaha and thinks it won't do much, but I'm here to tell you I've turned heads with mine....
 
#8 ·
In addition to what I previously posted. I'll be headed to Virginia Motorsports Park in Dinwiddie Va this Saturday 4-3-10 to see what numbers I can put down in the 1/4. If anyone else is in the area you should come by and check it out.
 
#49 ·
thinking about taking mine to the track this year...Ive got a 50 tooth sprocket in the back and a 200 series tire...maybe get some straps and see what happens.... I m not a light weight ....think a weigh about 210....maybe eliminate cat and remove exup valve as well ....all oem and and never been to the track...
 
#21 · (Edited)
My 1/4 time over the weekend was a 9.754 @139.84 with a 1.60 60'. I was happy with what it ran considering what little I have done to it, I weigh 230, and it was coming up off the line. I'll try to post a video of one of my runs as soon as I can get my hands on it...
 
#22 ·
Buddy



My buddy was down there this past weekend and ran the 9.58 on the 04 R1.He said you should soften your rear shock.
 
#26 ·
front



Lowering or strapping the front end works.
 
#34 ·
I change my launch depending on how well the track is hooking up. We have an 1/8 track close by that doesn't hook all that well and I launch between 9-9500. The 1/4 I went to over the weekend was hooking hella good and I was leaving between 7-8000. Only launch at what you're comfortable with. What wheel base are you at?
 
#36 ·
If you don't have the money for a extended swing arm you should look at getting a set of swing arm extensions. I ran with a set most of the season last year. I just got an actual extended swing arm last week. You're biggest cost is gonna be a chain. You'll need bolt on swing arm extensions, a chain, extended brake line, and a lowering link.
 
#38 ·
Most lowering links have 3 holes for adjustments from 1 1/2 - 3 inches. I have an adjustable lowering link (much easier to adjust)
 
#40 ·
extensions... I bought cheap ebay ones a couple years ago. many hundreds of passes later and they're still going strong. I heli-coiled them, and every so often I retorque the bolts. I do a visual inspection as part of my routine every time to the track.

I think most failures occur when bolts back out or steel bolts screw up aluminum threads. I've only ever seen pictures online of failed bolt on extensions, I've never seen anyone at my track have a problem.
 
#46 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what a normal 60 ft for someone there is, but here an average 60 ft is in the 1.60's. People that have an awesome 60 ft here have 60 ft times of 1.30-1.50.
 
#48 ·
+1 1.6's are pretty standard, nothing too special. On a stock wheelbase R1 they might be a bit harder to achieve, but not impossible. I cut 1.70's flat on my bike stock wheel base, and 1.60-1.62's stretched, never got it any lower until I demodded it but with a bit more outa the hole I coulda put it in the low 1.50's
 
#53 ·
Ok so I'm trying to get my video on here that my buddies wife posted on my facebook. Anyone know how I can do it?
 
#60 ·
scratch that idea.. found out that you don't just get to show up for test and tune night.. you first have to get a competition i.d. number, which is $50, then you have to pay a membership fee (1 year minimum).. and then you STILL have to pay $25 every time you go up there.. It's kinda b.s. I just want to go and run one time there.. oh well, going to Lakeland I guess
 
#70 ·
I drag raced mine for the first time at the weekend, I had mine well set up there is also a lot of money after going into mine its probably one of the quickest N/A 07/08 r1s out there. I lowered it also for the event.
I made absolute bits of 3 busa's, and one 175bhp k1 and I raced a k7 but I got a shite start but I realed in the 20ft he pulled on me from my bad start.
So yes R1s can be quicker but it depends on how much you want to spend.
 
#72 ·
Buddy



Sounds like you and my buddy dialing in almost identicle.Same year and mostly stock like yours.