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Changing lower triple clamp: Necessary? Suggestions?

1.8K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  Wheat  
#1 ·
You guys may have remembered my posts about what I thought was a bent right clipon. Basically, the right-hand clipon seems to be much closer to the tank than the left one when everything is centered up while riding.

Well, I finally started the winter bike work :cry and decided to change the clipon first. However, I now think the clipon is not the problem. Here's why...

Exhibit A:
After removing it and comparing it to the new one I have, I can't tell ANY difference between the two. They are identical in every respect.

Exhibit B:
Getting everything back together, I simply can NOT get the upper triple clamp back on. I can get one side started, but it will take considerable "work" to get the other side over the top of the fork. I could beat it on with a rubber mallet, but I'm very afraid that it will mess up the threads of the center nut tube (not sure what you call this thing). Yes, it does appear that it is not centered correctly.

Exhibit C:
The forks appear to be straight, work properly, and do not appear to have been shifted in the lower clamp. They are mounted in the exact same location in the lower clamp. I'm not sure if I can compare if they are parallel or not. This is really what I need to know.


So, I think my lower triple clamp is bent, forcing the forks to be "out of parallel" at the top.

First of all, does this sound like what is going on?

Second, is there a good way to support the bike for this other than a "center post" stand?

Third, any pointers for if/when I go through with this?



Thanks in advance as always...
 
#5 ·
No - fork tubes are still very tight in the lower clamps. The upper clamp was at least spec torque, and both tubes were at the same "elevation" in teh clamp.

If I loosened up the lower clamps, the tubes would slide through them, and that wouldn't be good at this point since I don't have the front of the bike (body) supported.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, I'm gonna be removing the front wheel anyway soon, new rubber. It's ok to lift the bike by the headers? Or, would it be better to rig up a 2x4 and lift it by the pan? or maybe a chain from the ceiling (attached to the fairing stay mount holes)?


Also, going to be changing oil, new frame sliders (current one's are trashed from wreck two years ago), maybe other mods... who knows.
 
#10 ·
skanky,
you need to loosen both the upper and lower triples. the forks will not slide out on their own. make sure the bike is supported by either hanging or jacking up at the headers.

the reason it is tight at the top is probably because you have them tight in the bottom triple. to check if the forks are straight you can run them up and down in the triples (once loose) or get them indicated.

what could have happened (assuming the forks are straight still) is that they shifted in the triples themselves. again, loosen everything, straighten them by sitting on the bike and making sure the clip-ons are in a correct position.

then bang the upper triple on with a mallet (don't be afraid) and finally adjust the height of the forks to be equal from a consistent measuring point on the triple once it's seated.

finally tighten upper/lower triples and clipons. then put the tire back on, drop the bike and bounce on the front end up and down before tightening the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork legs.
 
#11 ·
My biggest reason for not loosening the lower triple was to prevent the forks from sliding out of their position, hence, changing the bike geometry. I think I'll at least mark where it's at now so I can return to it again.

A visual inspection indicates that the forks are both evenly positioned in the lower triple, which leads me to believe that it's bent.

I didn't want to bang the upper triple with anything, not because of the triple itself, but becaus the center hole was rubbing against the threads of the steering bearing post. Banging on the triple would have surely marred the threads, and I'm not too keen on fixing THAT problem. hehe.
 
#12 ·
My biggest reason for not loosening the lower triple was to prevent the forks from sliding out of their position, hence, changing the bike geometry. I think I'll at least mark where it's at now so I can return to it again.

A visual inspection indicates that the forks are both evenly positioned in the lower triple, which leads me to believe that it's bent.

I didn't want to bang the upper triple with anything, not because of the triple itself, but becaus the center hole was rubbing against the threads of the steering bearing post. Banging on the triple would have surely marred the threads, and I'm not too keen on fixing THAT problem. hehe.
that's kind of my point. before buying a new lower triple which is highly unlikely to bend before the forks do, try loosening the forks in the triples and the alignment of the upper triple should be much easier.
 
#16 ·
Skanky, I do have one but really dont want to sell it.
Worse case scenario its yours. PM if so.

I suggest to take a step back.... Something if it is likely bent if IT IS. Meaning I tend to believe it would be obvious.
If you are doing a remount, pull your forks and a visually inspect.

FYI, my stock triple tree top didnt mount flush....

Good luck homey
 
#17 ·
Skanky,

Mine was bent/tweaked after a crash this summer. Ended up installing a new one.
First off, your bike came from Yamaha with the forks flush with the top of the upper triple so you can always go back to that when you're done.


jack the bike up until there is no weight on the front wheel.
loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and the steering stem nut so everything can settle, twist the tubes back and forth to make sure nothing is in a bind.

Barely snug the lower triple pinch bolts until you can't twist the fork tubes by hand.
Now check for parallel forks:
I had my upper/front fairing off for this job.
Get two straight edges, I used two straight rods. lay one across the fork tubes near the bottom and one near the top. Make sure they are level. You can then sight down them to see if the forks are parallel. Just line your eyes up above the steering stem and look down across both rods.

You can now gently snug up the upper triple pinch bolts and stem nut.

Use a rubber mallet and try to get the forks parallel if you can. It should be easy.

AFter you get them parallel, tighten the lower triple pinch clamps to spec and recheck for parallel.

If the forks are not parallel then the lower is warped. If they stay parallel afer tightening the lower pinch clamps then you are good to go. Tighten the upper triple and stem nut.

Hope this helps, PM me for cell # if you need to.

Eddie
 
#18 ·
GREAT NEWS!!!

I rigged (literally) my bike so that it hung from the ceiling with a nylon tie-down strap, worked GREAT. With all the weight off of the front end, the top triple clamp went on like a breeze. I carefully reassembled everything, trying to make sure all was centered, and when I finally had the bike on the ground, NO MORE SKEWED CLIP-ONS!!!


So why was it GREAT news and not just GOOD news? Well, while I had everything disassembled, I got her all cleaned up, changed the oil, AND fixed the wiring problem for my front hugger LED's!!! This has been something that I've been meaning to do all summer. Turns out it was a broken wire at the hugger where I installed a 1/16" jack so I could remove the hugger easily without having to disconnect wires and such.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

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