[zx7marsh]

I would rotate the crank by wrench in correct direction, plugs out, and see if it spins smooth with no apparent contact or high resistance. If that works, then I would do a compression test. That will help identify any bent valves. If compression is good you could start the motor again and see if you still have noise.

 

[zx7marsh]

If its still making noise, try tightening the CCT slightly to see if the noise changes.

 

[R1-Nate]

I would rotate the crank by wrench in correct direction, plugs out, and see if it spins smooth with no apparent contact or high resistance. If that works, then I would do a compression test. That will help identify any bent valves. If compression is good you could start the motor again and see if you still have noise.

If its still making noise, try tightening the CCT slightly to see if the noise changes.

Ok I will try that here in about 30 mins when I get off. Pull tank, air box and plugs out again, I will hand crank motor a few revolutions to check for resistance at all. Should It should crank completely freely or should there be a little bit of resistance? If I do that and it checks out I will proceed to compression test (but wouldnt it have no compression if timing is out again as well ? ) because the valves would be open / close at the wrong times or no? Im retarded (no pun intended) when it comes to timing. Lol so do I need to check timing again before I do compression test? And if timing, compression and hand crank all checks out I guess I can proceed to the CCT?!??

 

[zx7marsh]

I’m assuming that the cam timing is correct, thought you had said it was? You dont want to rotate crank unles the timing is correct. Rotating crank will require some torque, you have to overcome bearing drag, piston ring drag, etc. If the drag increases and rotation stops, you have valve contact with a piston. If good, go with compression test. All 4 reading should be about the same+/- about 25 psi, check the service manual. If compression is good, it may well be a loose cam chain. Try a little tighter on the screw adjustment.

 

[R1-Nate]

Im assuming that the cam timing is correct, thought you had said it was? You dont want to rotate crank unles the timing is correct. Rotating crank will require some torque, you have to overcome bearing drag, piston ring drag, etc. If the drag increases and rotation stops, you have valve contact with a piston. If good, go with compression test. All 4 reading should be about the same+/- about 25 psi, check the service manual. If compression is good, it may well be a loose cam chain. Try a little tighter on the screw adjustment.

Okay I hand cranked motor and there was no resistance except the initial piston resistance, I attached video here below im holding it with both hands to turn it. But it?s actually quiet easy to rotate the crank by hand.
Also yes, timing SHOULD be accurate it was 100% accurate last night when we set it. But if the CCT is throwing something off it could of jumped timing again.

I guess Im going to go ahead and pull tank, air box off again. Pull plugs and check resistance by hand cranking again, then compression while I have some of the plugs out.. and if I have compression and still no resistance on hand cranking. I will mess with the CCT again

https://youtu.be/Z-Il0p0yuz8

 

[zx7marsh]

The only way the timing would change is if the tensioner is not holding the cam chain taunt. Don’t know why it wouldn’t if you felt resistance when tightening the CCT screw. Take all spark plugs out before compression test. The compression numbers may be off from the manual because your doing it on a cold motor. What you want is uniform compression on all cylinders, +/-.

 

[zx7marsh]

The only way the timing would change is if the tensioner is not holding the cam chain taunt. Don’t know why it wouldn’t if you felt resistance when tightening the CCT screw. Take all spark plugs out before compression test. The compression numbers may be off from the manual because your doing it on a cold motor. What you want is uniform compression on all cylinders, +/-.

 

[R1-Nate]

The only way the timing would change is if the tensioner is not holding the cam chain taunt. Dont know why it wouldnt if you felt resistance when tightening the CCT screw. Take all spark plugs out before compression test. The compression numbers may be off from the manual because your doing it on a cold motor. What you want is uniform compression on all cylinders, +/-.

Doesnt compression test have to have spark on the other 3 cylinder to test compression on the current cyl Im testing? Thats how I did it on my car the only other time in my life, I tested compression.

I have all plugs out right now looking into my exhaust valves from TB side and they all seam to seat perfect. Not sure about exhaust side as my headers are currently installed. I know it needs to be compression tested to make sure. So im about to go get my compression tester and update you guys from there.

 

[zx7marsh]

No, pull all plugs out. Use the starter motor to spin the engine. Also the TB should be propped open on each cylinder. I’ve never done it on a TB, just carbs. Maybe someone would comment on this.

 

[zx7marsh]

Don’t know if your bike has an EXUP valve on, but if it does, I would try to get it held open during compression test. You dont want to restrict the air flow during the test.

 

[R1-Nate]

No, pull all plugs out. Use the starter motor to spin the engine. Also the TB should be propped open on each cylinder. Ive never done it on a TB, just carbs. Maybe someone would comment on this.

Dont know if your bike has an EXUP valve on, but if it does, I would try to get it held open during compression test. You dont want to restrict the air flow during the test.

So I got my mechanic friends digital fancy high $ compression test here are my results copied and pasted below using the same air fittings just different compression testers! Not sure why the dramatic difference or which one is more accurate. But seems the digital is maybe a little low for cold test and the old school tester is about right for a cold test. So if Im just going with the (average) of the two tests. It looks like I have accurate compression so good news NO BENT VALVES right? Im not 100% sure what compression specs are. I read between 190-210 and I read also 195-215 either way I look to be on average about 195-205 on average. Can anyone confirm what exact compression is supposed to be?! I do not feel like searching the manual another 1/2 hour for it lol

Fancy high $ Digital compression test results
1 - 195
2 - 192
3 - 193
4 - 196.5


My Old school compression test results
1 - 210
2 - 212
3 - 205
4 - 210

 

[zx7marsh]

Wow, I’d say thats great results, looks like the valves are sealing fine and no piston contact. Do you have your old CCT? Did you have problems with it? i think I’d start the motor up and try to adjust the mechanical CCT. See if changing the screw position changes the tapping sound intensity.

 

[R1-Nate]

Wow, Id say thats great results, looks like the valves are sealing fine and no piston contact. Do you have your old CCT? Did you have problems with it? i think I;d start the motor up and try to adjust the mechanical CCT. See if changing the screw position changes the tapping sound intensity.

Ive never had an old CCT Ive always had manual CCT. Also yes seems to be good compression across the board, still not 100% sure what 09-14 R1 compression is supposed to be. But im assuming Im in the threshold. So compression, check.

Also rechecked timing for sh*ts an giggles. Im not 100% sure on if my cyl 1 was at BTDC but all marks align on intake / exhaust cam as well as the lower crank gear marks!

Motor hand cranks with no resistance, what else could it be? Loose cam chain? Rattle? Slap?

 

[R1-Nate]

Per the manual. My timing appears to be correct pls lmk if anyone sees anything out of whack?!??

1) K lined up with the mark on block. (First 2 attached images)

2) intake cam indentions dots (circled in blue) lined up with mating surface (circled in yellow) of head (shown in 3rd -4th picture)

* Not sure of what green circle indention is for

3) exhaust cam was kinda dark and hard to see so I used my iPhone edit tool to add *E* and the indentions dot written in white (circled in red) lined up with mating surface on head (circled in blue in last attached photo)


Anything wrong?

 

[zx7marsh]

I always check cam timing by looking at the marks, hard to describe but, perpendicular to sprockets. So that the case edge is a line. I really believe your pics show correct timing and your compression numbers are right in the ball park. I looked at the ‘15 R1, because I have that manual, and comp numbers are speced at 180-230psi, and that motor has 13:1. If you cam timing were off, I dont think you would have comp that high. Have you run the motor again? Did you try to readjust the tensioner?

 

[zx7marsh]

When you got the motor did you check the oil for metal metallic residue? Just thinking if the rod bearing(s) are spun, damaged? That will cause a heavy knock noise.

 

[R1-Nate]

I always check cam timing by looking at the marks, hard to describe but, perpendicular to sprockets. So that the case edge is a line. I really believe your pics show correct timing and your compression numbers are right in the ball park. I looked at the 15 R1, because I have that manual, and comp numbers are speced at 180-230psi, and that motor has 13:1. If you cam timing were off, I dont think you would have comp that high. Have you run the motor again? Did you try to readjust the tensioner?

Okay good so me having somewhere between mid 190s and 210 area Im in a good compression psi area! Right in the middle. And agreed I dont think id have com that high if my timing was off. I have not readjusted the tensioner yet the TB, air box, tank and valve cover are still pulled off as I was running tests. Im going to pull it completely out (while I still have the valve cover off) and back it all the way out and act like Im reinstalling it new again and maybe add just a little extra tension this time on it and go from there. Its an APE tensioner if that makes a difference or helps yall help me lol

Only other thing I can think is maybe its in time but on the wrong BTDC piston?!? If thats possible (again idk sh*t about timing) lol

When you got the motor did you check the oil for metal metallic residue? Just thinking if the rod bearing(s) are spun, damaged? That will cause a heavy knock noise.

I did check it, I drained the oil (about 1-2 qt was still in it when I bought the motor) and there was no metal residue fine or big in it. When my 15k motor blew I had a little bit of glitter in it. Im thinking from the crank case (my crank bolt backed itself out and busted thru the casing) This one has nothing. Even after cranking it a few times and starting it for a split second its brand new oil so I should be able to see thru it fairly easy in the glass check area. I let a little bit out and it all looked just fine. So anything else?! Cam chain slack/ loose? Maybe chain slap? I work at auto auction an we deal with repo cars I have heard spun rods and real engine knocks mine doesnt have that also i dont think 2 motors would be making the exact same noise, ive attached my bike video below. The noise my blown motor was making its a little quieter on this new motor now! Hard to start (why I assumed valves) and then loud clicking tapping noise

https://youtu.be/HT_zU3ebaZY

 

[R1-Nate]

So started doing some research and think it might be my cam chain / tensioner or both. Ive looked up some noises. The only difference is mine keeps doing it. Their bikes eventually go away after oil pressure builds up. If you listen to my bike in the above post (my new motor is making the same noise just a little quieter) then watch these videos below, its very very similar noise.

https://youtu.be/LifJ-hx5tt0


https://youtu.be/slcedcGoGJc

 

[zx7marsh]

That motor is really making a racket!! I’m at a lost to what it is. It sounds like valve train noise. Is the valve cover still off? I would look at each cam lobe for scouring and check the valve clearances. A valve(s) with too much clearance could make a noise like that.

 

[zx7marsh]

Good diagnosis, that could be it.