Cylinder 1 intake is at the edge .20 on both
Cylinder 2 intake is 5 out on both at .25
Cylinder 3 intake is 5 out on both at .25
Cylinder 4 intake is at the edge .20 on both
Cylinder 1 exhaust is .10 on both
Cylinder 2 exhaust is .15 on both
Cylinder 3 exhaust is .15 on both
Cylinder 4 exhaust is .15 on inside and .10 outside
Intake spec is .11 to .20mm
Exhaust spec is .21 to .27 mm
So an explanation of the values. If you look a the pic where I recorded my measurements you will see the numbers in mm tenths and hundreths. The easiest way to get your number is to see what the spec low and high are. You should for example the intake is .20 at its farthest out of spec. So start with a .25 and work your way down till the feeler drags between cam and pad. This will be your starting point to figure out what pad youll need if out of spec. I had a few on the edge so with the .20 im going to go a step up to get it back in th .14/.15 range so itll be kinda in the middle. Ill add a vid on how to determine the replacement pad number so you can see how its done.
Ok I did the vids again and tried to keep it simple so the basics are there. This is really a maintenance project that is hands on. I hope the vids will atleast give reference points to figure out what to do.
Disclaimer: I am by no means a super badass mechanical race god so take anything I put in the vids or thread as a guide to how I understand the process and worked through it. Im sure there are faster ways.
Im putting a attached pic up also so you can see how I wrote my measurements down to keep them straight for me. Im sure there is a better way but I tried to keep it simple. The big circles are the feeler gauge measurment in the start of the process. The measurements above and below are in the following order. The first is the fractional measurment of the actual shim with the next measurement as the Millimeter with the small circle having the actual shim number on it. This should be more than enough to adjust to the correct shim .
I also included a short vid about the cam chain and a quick way to tell if it is worn out. I suggest to replace if your already in there if it is suspect.
The other two vids are general descriptions of what you will see and a basic process to align to TDC on the cylinder
1 to start the process. Then a short description of which way things are orientated .
The last attached pic is with a bucket pulled up exposing the shim. Which is the little round guy in the middle top of the valve spring. Easist way to get the bucket uo is with a magnet as is the same with the shim. Sometimes the shim sticks inside the bucket so dig it out. When you replace the shim it is a tight fit so dont get it in the seat at a angle. Thw shim needs to be flush.
Do not drop the shim in the oil valleys or you will have a bad day!
Update: The videos should be more than enough to do this job. It is tedious and will take some time. A service manual is still recommended to fill in any questions that arise.
Tools:
mostly 1/4 inch 8 mm , 10 mm and 11 mm sockets
1/4 inch extensions 6 inch and 4 inch should suffice
1/4 universal also
needle nose pliers to move items out of the way .
Hex drives in 3 mm and 6 mm for the throttle bodies if you need to tilt them back.
A torque wrench that reads in inch lbs . 02-03 cam shift caps are torqued to 7.2 lbs which is 86.4 inch lbs. (7.2 X 12 = 86.4)
feeler gauges that are preferably tapered
3/8 ratchet and extension for turning the rotor
a small light for the valve train to help see what you are doing
these are the main tools and your mileage may vary with everything else you might choose to use.
Cylinder 2 intake is 5 out on both at .25
Cylinder 3 intake is 5 out on both at .25
Cylinder 4 intake is at the edge .20 on both
Cylinder 1 exhaust is .10 on both
Cylinder 2 exhaust is .15 on both
Cylinder 3 exhaust is .15 on both
Cylinder 4 exhaust is .15 on inside and .10 outside
Intake spec is .11 to .20mm
Exhaust spec is .21 to .27 mm
So an explanation of the values. If you look a the pic where I recorded my measurements you will see the numbers in mm tenths and hundreths. The easiest way to get your number is to see what the spec low and high are. You should for example the intake is .20 at its farthest out of spec. So start with a .25 and work your way down till the feeler drags between cam and pad. This will be your starting point to figure out what pad youll need if out of spec. I had a few on the edge so with the .20 im going to go a step up to get it back in th .14/.15 range so itll be kinda in the middle. Ill add a vid on how to determine the replacement pad number so you can see how its done.
Ok I did the vids again and tried to keep it simple so the basics are there. This is really a maintenance project that is hands on. I hope the vids will atleast give reference points to figure out what to do.
Disclaimer: I am by no means a super badass mechanical race god so take anything I put in the vids or thread as a guide to how I understand the process and worked through it. Im sure there are faster ways.
Im putting a attached pic up also so you can see how I wrote my measurements down to keep them straight for me. Im sure there is a better way but I tried to keep it simple. The big circles are the feeler gauge measurment in the start of the process. The measurements above and below are in the following order. The first is the fractional measurment of the actual shim with the next measurement as the Millimeter with the small circle having the actual shim number on it. This should be more than enough to adjust to the correct shim .
I also included a short vid about the cam chain and a quick way to tell if it is worn out. I suggest to replace if your already in there if it is suspect.
The other two vids are general descriptions of what you will see and a basic process to align to TDC on the cylinder
1 to start the process. Then a short description of which way things are orientated .
The last attached pic is with a bucket pulled up exposing the shim. Which is the little round guy in the middle top of the valve spring. Easist way to get the bucket uo is with a magnet as is the same with the shim. Sometimes the shim sticks inside the bucket so dig it out. When you replace the shim it is a tight fit so dont get it in the seat at a angle. Thw shim needs to be flush.
Do not drop the shim in the oil valleys or you will have a bad day!
Update: The videos should be more than enough to do this job. It is tedious and will take some time. A service manual is still recommended to fill in any questions that arise.
Tools:
mostly 1/4 inch 8 mm , 10 mm and 11 mm sockets
1/4 inch extensions 6 inch and 4 inch should suffice
1/4 universal also
needle nose pliers to move items out of the way .
Hex drives in 3 mm and 6 mm for the throttle bodies if you need to tilt them back.
A torque wrench that reads in inch lbs . 02-03 cam shift caps are torqued to 7.2 lbs which is 86.4 inch lbs. (7.2 X 12 = 86.4)
feeler gauges that are preferably tapered
3/8 ratchet and extension for turning the rotor
a small light for the valve train to help see what you are doing
these are the main tools and your mileage may vary with everything else you might choose to use.
I'll send you pics and specs of what comes in the kit.
