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New stator or voltage regulator ???

27K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  rob00r1  
#1 ·
i have my check engine light on , i know for a fact that if was a bad battery the check engine light wouldnt go on , so i was riding my bike with a 3 month old battery and the thing died on me , tested the voltage and it was up to 13.6 and when I shut it off was down to 12.7 ....my question is if I had a bad stator would the check engine light go on ? or if was a bad voltage regulator would that make the check engine light to go on ??? anyone ???? thanks
 
#3 ·
well the shop whos fixing it called today and said was just a bad battery , they changed the battery and rode the bike with a digital multimeter and the guy said the bike its charging perfectly so he think that was it !!! will see lemme ride the bike for a while and hopefully it wont happen again !!!
 
#4 ·
so here I am again , just picked up bike from the shop and couldn't even make back home it died on me again twice within 60 miles travel !!!! replaced the battery and thats not it , should I go with a voltage regulator ??? i noticed my HIDs starter to flash and then i pulled over to a gas station and then i tried to shut it off and start it again but it didnt start i had to jump , so whats next should I just replace the whole stator unit ???
 
#5 ·
man i am facing the same problem, is it throwing a code 46? i purchased a new battery, i was stranded on the highway on the next test drive, i disassembled my bike to check and test the stator and i saw a little more than normal wear and tear seeing that i just bought a new OEM stator to go along with the new battery, thinking i have just found the culprit and took care of my problem I once again go on a test drive. I was stranded on the highway after 30 mins of riding.i hope your problem isn't as sneaky as this one im chasing but i do know There is only Three(3) parts thats needed to have/maintain spec battery voltage of a motorcycle, Stator,Regulator and battery, two of which i have replaced with brand new OEM parts the regulator is next my purchase( which im suggesting you check you regulator first) Which makes sense, it being electronic means vibrations and high tempature can effect it plus its location within 5 inches of a 3 inch exhaust pipe, it prolly gets real hot down there. but like i said im going to try the regulator and ill hit you back with results and let me know what you find out, cause it sucks having a sick bike in the garage
 
#6 ·
yo man I was testing my new battery today and everything seemed fine till after a good 20 minutes I noticed the voltage dropping from 14.05 to 11.56 , even at 5000rpm the voltage dropped instead of goin up so i called this shop and while i was talking to a mecanic he told me to stick my hand and touch the voltage regulator which is right under the subframe and it was very hot that i almost burn myself , so while the bike was cold the regulator charged the battery perfectly and once it got hot i wouldnt charge anymore and thats why the bike died on me , so just spend my whole day working on my bike , i got a new voltage regulator , pain in the neck to replace that thing ill tell you that , start the bike and everything its fine now, it was showing a code 46 and the check engine light on and now it doesnt anymore !! the bike was tested for a good 30 minutes and the charge didnt go below 13.7 and at 5000rpm was up t 14.10 so hopefully the problem its fixed !!!!!
 
#10 ·
hey sickr, when you were riding, did you notice the bike kinda buck or jerk, loss of power, before it cut off on you? I was riding sat and notice around 5-5500 rpm it would act up. I going to check the chargin tomorrow. It hasn't died on me yet. Thanks
 
#11 ·
yeah it does a lil bit because the charging system doesn't work after the voltage regulator gets hot so when you test the voltage of the bike make sure you leave the bike running for like 30 minutes, if the problem its the voltage regulator you will see voltage drooping and once you see that tried to touch the voltage regulator ,it is not supposed to be hot if it is hot the problem its the voltage regulator if the bike doesnt charge from the start it is the stator ! I've learned at the hard way i replace the battery it didn't solved the problem , i replaced the stator it didnt solve the problem so I finally got a new voltage regulator and now Im all set , let me know it goes !
 
#12 ·
I have tried 2 day now, trying to catch it in the act. I am going to have to hook my volt meter up while I am riding and try it that way. Otherwise right now It is charging strong on start up. I will probably buy one since it fits the same symptons that you were having. It hasn't died on me yet. I will keep you posted. Thanks again
 
#13 ·
since I couldn't catch it in the act. I started thinking and remembered that I just got my bike tuned before I went out of town. Completly forgot :dundun: I dropped it off yesterday, told them what was going on since I got it tuned and they checked, it was leaned out just enough, to cause my sympton. Im going on a 5 hours ride tomorrow:jump let you know how it goes..
 
#14 ·
yea it would be regualtor/rectifier. known problem. sometimes its just connection on it. it gets hot and connections gets goo'd up. mine did that and quick scraping and cleaning, fixed it for me.
 
#15 ·
Question for u tech or past experience guys. Just put on a new battery and tests fine. Bike off I get a 12.4V, bike on ad at about 5k rpm I get 13.8V so as far as I know it's charging. But sometimes it struggles to turn on I have to push start it. I hooked up a voltmeter up and as I try to turn the bike on volts drop to about 9V at times. I'm about to replace the startor, but if someone thinks it's somethig else I can try that b4 I buy a startor. I've been told 07/08 startors fit and are better then 04-06 startors. Anyone have an 07/08 startor to?
 
#17 ·
Question for u tech or past experience guys. Just put on a new battery and tests fine. Bike off I get a 12.4V, bike on ad at about 5k rpm I get 13.8V so as far as I know it's charging. But sometimes it struggles to turn on I have to push start it. I hooked up a voltmeter up and as I try to turn the bike on volts drop to about 9V at times. I'm about to replace the startor, but if someone thinks it's somethig else I can try that b4 I buy a startor. I've been told 07/08 startors fit and are better then 04-06 startors. Anyone have an 07/08 startor to?
Rsen, I have the same issue with my 2005 R1 (30K miles...original owner). New OEM battery, when I crank it, the voltage drops to about 9 V. What ended up fixing your issue? Was is rectifier/regulator or stator?

Also, is there a way to monitor the voltage while riding ? What's the best way to do that besides, rig your voltmeter, to the battery leads and have it sit on the tank while riding the bike.
 
#21 ·
Question for all of you that had the regulator/rectifier problem....

Did you have the problem of it starting when it was sitting in the hot sun after you rode the bike? Did it seem to labor a bit at lower RPMs (say under 3k) in 1st gear? Did the starter turnover just fine, but the bike just wouldn't start?

I'm wondering if this might be the possible cause to my hot no-start issues I'm having with my 05 R1. It'll start just fine any other time except for after I've ridden the bike a bit and parked it in the direct sun (or so it seems). However, if I park it in the shade, it seems to be okay and start up. So, I'm wondering if my regulator/rectifier is on it's way out and only doing it when it gets hot from the motor and sitting in the 115*F heat of Vegas.

Thanks,
Mat
 
#25 ·
I had the same issue with mine. It turns out it was the starter. After a lot of testing the starter was draining too much amps when it got hot. It would turn over the bike but since it was draining amps it was enough to not let the cdi box turn on. So it was flooding when it was hot cause of no spark. I changed the starter with another one I had and it took care of the problem.