I don't do or recommend a lot of part swapping between model years, but I've had a few earlier generation R1 shocks reworked and they have performed well. But you would not have any adjustments not on the stock shock (low speed compression, rebound, preload).

Is there a reason that you are only looking for Ohlins? There are several competitive shock absorbers out there from Penski, WP, Race Tech, JRi, and many others. Plus Race Tech and JRi are custom built shocks by application. So rather than buying a shock that needs service and possibly a spring, you would have a brand new, built for you shock absorber.

 

Hey Dan

No particular reason for Ohlins, just that I'm more familiar with them. I see the YA 204 is discontinued as well.

I'll start searching other brands when I get a chance. What you recommend? Unfortunately I'm on a bit of a budget too

 

On a budget and if you are running a constant tire size: I'd have the OEM rebuilt. While it will cost you about $500 it will be built to your preferences. If you buy an aftermarket shock for about $350, something of that age would need at a minimum service for about $150+ shipping. If a spring is needed you'll add roughly $120. So you'd be looking at roughly $620 to bring the used shock current. But you would have all the adjustments that shock came with (ride height, hi/low speed compression, etc).

 

Thanks Dan.

Yes it was the adjustments I'd like to have that I can't get with the stock shock. For a 2nd hand Ohlin they're around $500 - $650, then as you said a service is a must + spring! It will be close to a $1000 item, but built how I want.

 

What's a new one run?

 

Just curious if I am looking this up correctly? Ohlins calls the YA204 a S46PR1C2LS Type shock. Does that mean any S46PR1C2LS can be made to work, or are all S46PR1C2LS the same?

 

Look up the Ohlins website, those numbers represent the type of shock and features it has. The model numbers will represent the bike it's made for e.g. stroke, fittings etc.

 

I guess you really can't throw money away experimenting on $500+ shocks, but looking at the TR602 shock, the length seems to be similar (294mm Ohlins +/-5mm vs. 300mm R1), and it sure looks the same. I learned my less on the 09 R1 shock though. It is not the same length without shims, and has a different size mount at the top, but I only wasted $50 or so trying. I spent another $35 on the GSXR shock (Thanks to Dan for the idea) just to harvest the spring. I did 20 years of riding on a FZR and YZF with almost no rear suspension adjustability, so now I am like a kid in a candy store with the stock R1 stuff.

 

Yeh it looks similar to the 04, but I'm after an 02-03. The reservoir can on the 04 R1 Ohlins is mounted vertically kind of behind the shock

 

You are right about the differences between YA 204 and YA 343, but I doubt anybody will be able to tell you whether one will fit the other or opposite, simply because not too many have tried. As always, there is likely a reason why Ohlins moved the reservoir for the 2004 model. If the 2003 shock would still have been fitting the 2004 bike, it would have been easier and more cost efficient to just keep using the 2003 shock. They did not and that means there is likely a technical reason for it.

Even if the shock is discontinued, you might want to call Ohlins USA in Hendersonville. They might be able to tell you if and who has still got them in stock.

Also, why do you need a 115 N/mm spring...? That is a massive step up from the 95 N/mm.

 

Thanks Alatalo.

I was hoping for the other way around: that a later model shock would an earlier model bike, if you know what I mean.

The reason they offset the 04 reservoir was to miss the exhaust which came up between the motor and the wheel. I was hoping that the reservoir would still have enough clearance to fit into the 02 swing arm, but it doesn't.

Also the reason for the 115N/mm spring is I'm 115kg with my riding gear on, so that puts me at either a 110 to 115N/mm spring. Considering we sometimes go away for a few days, I figured get the heavier spring for the weight of the tail bag (maybe).

 

I'm using a Öhlins S46PRCLS with a 95 N/mm spring on my -00 R1. Its originally for an R6 but fits with some modifications. It has the vertically mounted canister but there is one problem with that particular feature. On very hard compression the canister will hit the swingarm.
This hasn't happened to me yet except when jumping hard on the seat(for testing purposes) but I'm looking into it to see if the canister can be moved upwards. Theres room for it on the bike and the canister sits on a pivot held by a bolt. I'm just not sure I dare to loosen the bolt that holds it without comfirmation first that the gas won't leak out. I sent Öhlins a message but no reply yet.

Maybe someone here knows?

This is what it looks like:

http://img15.imagefra.me/i483/noobeater/cvbl_9bb_udyxu.jpg

http://www.ohlins-suspension.co.uk/ohlinsroadproducts.htm <On this page there is a picture of the same shock with the canister mounted much higher than mine.

 

I'm using a Öhlins S46PRCLS with a 95 N/mm spring on my -00 R1. Its originally for an R6 but fits with some modifications. It has the vertically mounted canister but there is one problem with that particular feature. On very hard compression the canister will hit the swingarm.

Using a shock that has got interference problems between the nitrogen reservoir and the swingarm is strictly not recommended...! In reality, this means you are not getting the full wheel stroke and this also means you are using the nitrogen reservoir and the swingarm as bump stop. This is dangerous from a handling point of view as well as a parts durability point of view.

Every Ohlins aftermarket shock is designed to offer the full OEM wheel stroke with zero interference problems.

This hasn't happened to me yet except when jumping hard on the seat(for testing purposes) but I'm looking into it to see if the canister can be moved upwards. Theres room for it on the bike and the canister sits on a pivot held by a bolt. I'm just not sure I dare to loosen the bolt that holds it without comfirmation first that the gas won't leak out.

The pivoting nitrogen reservoir is held not only by the pivoting bolt, it is also indexed by a locating pin. If you want to move it, you need to release the nitrogen pressure and it is recommended to peform a complete refill of the shock absorber (I doubt you will be able to rotate it without losing some of the oil).

 

Thats what I thought.

 

Got my hands on a drawing for the YA 343 today. Disappointment. Everything fits except the reservoir. it is rotated 20* to the pivot, making it stick out the side a fair way. Overhangs the swing arm hole by 10mm. BUGGA!!!!:boom:curse:
Might be time to try and look at Penske, RSI etc....

 

You definitely need to call Ohlins USA like Alatalo said. You'd be shocked what you find out, and they are great people in one of the greatest states in the US.

I really do feel that chasing down a used shock (unless you get it below $500) and having to have it serviced, potentially revalved and resprung compared to possibly running into a NOS shock is not a good idea.

And I think fitting a shock of a different length, designed for a different bike is an absolutely horrid idea. There are reasons for the differences between the models.

 

I really do feel that chasing down a used shock (unless you get it below $500) and having to have it serviced, potentially revalved and resprung compared to possibly running into a NOS shock is not a good idea.

I completely agree, and especially in the case of so called "used race suspension". A lot of people seem to be horny about chasing down 10-15 year old race front forks to put them into their streetbikes. If you have got the knowledge to judge the general condition of a suspension component and maybe the possibility to get it serviced and repaired - fine. Otherwise, it is coming close to a stay away warning. The seller is obviously selling this fantastic, exclusive race component for a reason and in most cases I have seen, this reason is that their product is completely run down and they have just figured out what it will cost to have it serviced / repaired / tuned, or that spare parts are no longer available...

In most cases, new aftermarket suspension OR re-valved and re-sprung OEM suspension is a better idea. It will not impress as many numpties down at the burger joint or the coffee shop, but it will certainly perform better down the twisty road and usually for lot less money.

most of the time myself and others have had success with using the calculator on Race Tech's website. There is still measuring needed in most cases, but it will get people into the ballpark.

The reason I do not recommend it is based on checking couple of bikes I own as well as couple of bikes I have worked with. It seems to constantly come up with overly stiff rear springs compared to what others have calculated as well as what others have ended up with after many hours of testing and tuning. I don't know how it works or if it even considers essential parameters like weight distribution, chain force geometry and shock absorber linkages - or if it just takes numbers from a table based on Race Tech's internal testing - but the answers I got from it were in general way too stiff. No matter if I check my own bikes or bikes that I know about that people race on amateur as well as more professional levels.

I just re-checked my own 2012 YZF-R1 and 2010 GSX-R and it is telling me to use a 136 and a 114 N/mm rear spring. With my somewhat lardy spec at 100 kilograms, these bikes are currently using 95 and 100 N/mm springs. Unless you have got absolutely perfect track conditions, grip as well as tyre life start to go out the window around 105 N/mm and if I would stick something closer to 110 N/mm into any of these bikes, the rear suspension would just not handle the bumps. Period. So, I can't really take an advice about using a 136 N/mm spring seriously. Also, one might wonder why the recommendations for these bikes are that much different when in fact the rear end geometries and weights are very similar...?

In my opinion, picking springs for different weight riders does not need to be rocket science. Especially not if we are not going into detail about particular tyres and track conditions. There is an old, general "rule" about putting half of the percentual difference into preload and half of the percentual difference into spring rate and in most cases this "rule" turns out surprisingly close to the result you get from spending loads of time testing. Then again, the starting point can always be discussed, but the OEM spring rates and preloads were not picked by coincidence. They are as good starting points as anything else and they are usually optimized for a 80 kg rider with quite decend track speed. If anything, most of them are already on the stiff side because they are expected to carry a passenger.

 

The 04 shock will hit the swingarm on earlier 4xv-5pw models.