flat rate is 4:30 hours so multiply that out you get around 6 to 7 depending on teh shop and now figure out shop rate you have your total. dont go in asking or book time because that is not what they charge that is just a recomendation

 

I say about $500 but prices can go up or down by a few hundred.

 

that doesnt sound to far out of wack. Like i said i just looked up the book time before i posted and i know the shop i worked at for every hour of book time was charged at 1.25-1.5 depending on customers attitude and diffucilty of the job

 

Yeah I used to work at a auto repair shop and they did that. I'm not sure how many more hours they tacked onto the book time as I wasn't working on the office side of things but it ticked me off. When book time says 5 hours no need to charge for 7 hours because half the time we got it done way way faster than book time. To me book time is stretching it because usually it takes about half that time unless it's your first time doing it. Then marking it up even more. I don't think they did it that badly when I was there it mostly was charging book time that still bugged me when it took half that. Since I quit and have wanted them to do things I didn't know how or feel comfortable doing I see they now are adding time onto book time. I've started learning to do stuff even if I didn't know how before.

 

I had mine done for 150 buy a good buddy of mine everywhere else was around 500...yah fawk that!

 

i do our teams bikes ( now 6 !, only done 2 susuki's so far). are u doing this ur self ? or getting shop rates , reason i ask is that if u buy a factory manual, do it ur self and pocket the rest. round here ur looking at about $450.00.

 

If you live in LA. BSR-1 is forum member with a shop that I am sure will give you a deal.

 

if you're in so cal?

 

so how much? I am almost there at that time too

 

I'd have to see. I always do the valves with the motor sitting on my work bench. it would be a major pain to do it still in the bike.

to the OP I doubt the valves are causing you running problems but they should be done anyway.

 

how do i know when i need a valve adjustment? i only have 18k on my 05, however it been acting sluggish under load before 4k rpm and making an aweful ticking/knocking at the same time... after 5k rpm though its fine. i want to get the issue fixed before the next track day what do you guys think?

 

26,000 miles or so for valve adjustments.

 

Look on the bright side. I have to do it almost every year on my Duc. Dam pain in the butt but I like it.

 

I just did a valve job for $5,500.00.

Of course, the piston managed to slam the valve about 15,000 times prior and pretty much destroy the head, piston, cam, etc.... but what's a few extra parts when you want quality!

:crash

 

typically, its not just noise u hear.. here is how most of it goes. the valves generally DO NOT loosen up over time. people have tendancy to think this, but its not case most of time(again not all time, but most) in one with 40k miles, what most people will see is that all exhaust vavles will be within spec, and prolly 1/2 or so of intake valves on tight side. tho most will still be in spec, maybe couple that are too tight. people hear vavle tick and think it needs valve adjustment..99% of time, thats not case. exhaust vavles are hardened for temps, intake valves are not, but still see same temps. over time and heat cycles, the metal will stretch(grow) so vavles will become tight. decrease in mileage, hard to start, poor idle can be symtoms of tight vavles. these vavle trains on these bikes are extemely tough. tho things do happen occasionally.

checking vavles is one thing...if they need adjustment thats another. just checking them, requires taking off valve cover and checking. if they need adjustment, that requires pulling cams out, finding out what shims on are head, and what shims u need. just checking valves and if they are good is prolly about 1.5-2 hours, actually changing them can be between 4-5 hours, tho it generally doesnt take that long.

my advice is get service manual, and at least check ur own vavle clearances. if they need changing, thats one thing, but 99% of time they wont. so its worth investment, getting manual and feeler guages and familiarizing urself with it.

 

When my dirtbike had the valves get too tight it did what he is describing. I had to give it gas for it to fire or else it would just keep cranking. Then if I let off the gas when it was running it wouldn't idle it would just die. I thought it was the carb but turned out to be the valves. It ran great as long as you didn't let off the gas but when you got it to where it should idle it wouldn't idle it would just die not matter how far you turned the idle up.

 

I'm learning (slowly) that dirt bikes are a whole different machine even though the technology is basically the same.