NESBA just switched from Pirelli to Dunlop, you are an upstream swimmer aren't you?:lol:lol

 

Yea, I guess you could say that. Last season was rough due to persistent bike issues. My bike was in the shop for half the summer replacing rings and gaskets. The riding I did do was to use up the previous seasons left over 209s. Now I have a stock pile of pirellis I need to use. I just want to get the geometry somewhat close to where I have it now. I figure it will be pretty close to the new dunlops when I run out of pirellis.

 

Best thing to do is take a measurement from the center of the axle to a fixed point as if checking sag. Then turn the ride height adjustment exactly one turn, and remeasure. Then you'll have a gauge for telling how much ride height adjustment will affect the overall ride height.

Make sense?

 

Best thing to do is take a measurement from the center of the axle to a fixed point as if checking sag. Then turn the ride height adjustment exactly one turn, and remeasure. Then you'll have a gauge for telling how much ride height adjustment will affect the overall ride height.

Make sense?

Yea, makes sense, and was my next step. Just trying to avoid the hassle as it requires complete removal of the exhaust and dogbones each time I make an adjustment. Anyway, thanks, guess I haev some work to do.

 

its an ohlins, can't remember which model.

 

Does it have the nut for ride height or do you have to shim?

 

OK, for those that want to know in the future, the ohlins gives a 2mm rear ride height adjustment per full rotation of the eyelet. This makes the math easy. Two full turns gives me the 4mm height adjustment need.

Actually, because I was using the 209s before, my forks are 1mm down inside the triple with the shock completely bottomed out. This was the only way I could eliminate the head shake with that tire. I plan to raise my rear ride height 4mm and drop the front 1-2mm as needed. Because this new tire doesn't grow like the old 209s, I should be able to adjust the geometry to a slightly more aggressive position without suffering the head shakes. I'll let ya know how it turns out after Summit Point next weekend.

 

I'm wondering if my shocks are the same. That's good info I've never seen before.

We are tracking on the front. And I like that you have thought through a couple of small changes.

What are you running for sprockets? Curious on how the anti-squat will be changed by the new swingarm angle. I don't think it's going to be any problem because all your changes are subtle.

 

Its interesting that you mentioned the sprockets. I anticipate a fairly large reduction in my top speed due to the tire change. Because the 209 grew so much, I could never really calculate the proper gearing before. With the fixed tire size I will be running 16-47 at Summit and VIR. I had to run a 16-48 or 49 before.

As for the anti-squat, I don't think this will come into play. I need to check the new swingarm angle, but it was only 11.5 degrees before. I've heard the preferred angle for the 04-06 R1s is actually 12-13 degrees.

Side note: I have an 05 swing-arm on my 04 R1, which is a few millimeters longer. Highly recommended, but does flaten out the swingarm angle a bit and requires about three extra links in your chain.

 

Sweet. Who did the initial setup on your chassis. You really seem to know what you are looking at and into.

And the smaller sprocket would further help keep the anti squat in check. Sounds to me like you should get what you want out of the changes. Plus the back is still adjustable.

Crap... we've been discussing this and I still haven't looked at mine.

 

My fellow NESBians helped a lot when I first mounted the 209s. I do a lot of track days and track all my changes very carefully. Bottom line, I hope to get a little better drive out of the corners. The ability to drop the front end a little should result in quicker turn-in as well. Every little bit helps at teh track.

If you ever have any questions, feel free to PM me.

 

:thumbup