How much does the R1 OEM wheel weigh?

 

if i recall the topic was covered a while back on the forum as well..

combined weight of 24-25lbs both front and back wheel.. they're heavy fvckers on the R1 compared to other manuf. who are in the 20-22lb combined weight range

 

Titax mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm sneakysneaky:sneaky

 

Moi is in a lot of ways as important and maybe moreso than weight when it comes to wheels..so consider that in you choice of "best"

 

FYI, the higher the weight....the higher the MOI and vise versa. :sing:

http://www.sportrider.com/hoop-it-sportbike-wheel-comparison

 

Not always.....A wheel with a lighter outer part of the rim (where the tire mounts) and a heavier hub section, will have a lower MOI than a wheel of the exact same weight, that has a heavier outer rim and lighter hub section. Overall weight affects MOI, but WHERE the weight ISN'T on the wheel, is what will show in MOI testing.

 

Looking at the numbers, overall wheel weight has a major effect on MOI.

I know it doesn't mean the lowest wheel in weight will have the lowest MOI but the pattern is very close.

 

I'll have the Titax MOI posted as soon as I hear from the owner.

 

Read the 2nd paragraph on MOI in the Sport rider link posted, where a 4.5 lb. LIGHTER Buell front wheel had the same MOI as an R6 front wheel that was 4.5 lbs. heavier !, all because of the extra 'rim' weight on the Buell. If you want to see a real wheel drop test, I'm sure someone can post the video of a BST wheel being tortured.

 

Read the 2nd paragraph on MOI in the Sport rider link posted, where a 4.5 lb. LIGHTER Buell front wheel had the same MOI as an R6 front wheel that was 4.5 lbs. heavier !, all because of the extra 'rim' weight on the Buell. If you want to see a real wheel drop test, I'm sure someone can post the video of a BST wheel being tortured.

Let's see it Ian. :lol He can torture his set for us.

 

np... in the case of BST above, combined weight f&b is about 15-17lbs... at least 7lbs lighter than oem

 

Z064life, buy the man a sset of wheels and stfu

 

Uh oh. :corn

 

To be totally fair you would have to get Sport Rider to conduct the test or at least use the same method as noted.


John Bradley's The Racing Motorcycle: A Technical Guide for Constructors (Euro Spares, 415/665-3363, www.eurospaces.com) details a method for measuring a wheel's MoI, which we employed for our test. Each wheel was mounted to an axle and rolled down an incline of a known slope. The amount of time it takes for the wheel to roll a set distance from a stop is used (along with the wheel's weight, the slope angle and the axle diameter) to calculate the wheel's MoI. We did five tests, discarding the highest and lowest results and averaging the remaining three values for each wheel. The numbers listed include the rear wheel's cush drive and hardware (but not the sprocket) and a small axle used to conduct the test that has negligible influence.

 

Dymag released theirs. Bst would not...

 

I'd love to have a set of BST's. Titax just seem more reasonably priced for me at $1600 shipped. They will leave me more room ($) for a belly pan and the new Graves LINK system.

I aim to have wheels, Graves LINK, and belly pan before next season.

Along with a few other things like Renthal clip ons and other cockpit bits.

 

This is the response to the Titax MOI

Front: 1350 Kilograms cm2

Rear: 1020 Kilograms cm2

The numbers I am finding are weird when I convert. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. :dunno Typo maybe. :dunno

I'm in class. I can't put to much effort into it.

 

This is the response to the Titax MOI

Front: 1350 Kilograms cm^2

Rear: 1020 Kilograms cm^2

The numbers I am finding are weird when I convert. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. :dunno Typo maybe. :dunno

I'm in class. I can't put to much effort into it.

And a Rotobox rbx carbon rear is 720 kg cm^2....

 

No matter the moment of inertia or a (kind of pointless) drop test, I would personally be much more interested in the Marchesini's. They are expensive, but there are reasons for them being the most popular wheels in racing and the most common reason is probably the fatigue properties.

 

And Titax along with other wheels don't have "good" fatigue properties???? Come on now.

Titax has special certifications for each piece of aluminum they use. They only use "certified" aerospace material. They aren't making these wheels out of recycled material.

And the drop test is to show how the finish color is resistant to scratches. Kinda like the scratches you see on a lot of wheels from countless tire changes. It happens.

Some people are so negative with every post they make on here. :lol

Sometimes I ask myself, "Why even bother?"

I'm just trying to share my interest with other people rather if they want Titax or any other wheel on the market.

I have a particular interest in Titax because of the light weight quality wheels they make at a reasonable price compared to other manufactures who sell similar wheels for double the price.

$1600 shipped for light weight performance wheels that are very hard to put a scratch on made from certified material that will out last any "amateur" rider on this forum......who's going to beat that. :dunno

I have nothing against you Alatalo but a simple drop test is not "pointless". That's your opinion. :fact

 

if you want the best weight and moi figures, change the front to a kawi bst front. The rotor mounts are much closer to the hub.

 

The wheel will fit with no issues?

 

you'll need correct length spacers. Kawi uses european spacing like ape and duc.

 

Oh ok. Thanks.

 

Another thing to consider when buying wheels is the certifications they have. This is why you can't go wrong with the established brands that have done rigorous testing and have several certifications. It's nice to know you have years of R&D rolling beneath the motorcycle.

 

I have 3 different wheels I want to purchase. The final discussion will be determined by my "mod budget" when I'm ready to make the purchase.

The wheels are.

BST
Marchesini Genesi
Titax

 

Anyone have any first hand experience with these?

 

I would add these to your consideration:

http://www.superbikeunlimited.com/presta/31_dymag-wheels

The aluminum units are very light and the carbon units are probably the best carbon wheels on the market in terms of both lightness and strength.

 

Thank you.

The carbon wheels look good but I can't find pictures of the aluminum wheels mounted on any bike.

 

Just google "Dymag UP7"

 

Ok thank you.

I was adding more terms when I was searching and came up with nothing.

Thank you.

 

Sorry to go off topic but the new cbr1k's look tiny.

Good luck with the wheels one2.

 

A friend of mine has one. They feel so light weight and they are pretty quick.

 

I'm not sure if I like the style of the Dymag aluminum wheels.

 

I love the Marchesini Genesi M7RS but wow the price.. I can almost buy a decent track bike for those lol...

 

2009 R1 stock rear wheel complete with sprocket: 18.4 pounds

Carrozzeria 2009 R1 rear wheel complete with sprocket: 15 pounds

Still looking at my options here. Price is a big factor. Kinda like Vortex rear sets.....the best for the money. :fact

 

Take a look at the videos in the link below.

http://www.forged-wheel.com/cfw/index.php?div=media