Try 15/43
This may be good for your track the way you describe it atleast. Not as tall as stock but just right if you run a technical track.

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Gearing is an interesting subject. I went from stock, 16/41 to 15/43. I then noticed at my home track (do about 20-30 days a year) that my revs and gear shifts were not matching with the track. I then went to 16/43 and that helped allot. I might even try dropping 1 or maybe 2 teeth in the back, but maybe 1. It helped me be in the meat of the rev range for my track. I would try it and see where you are with rpms and shifts, then go from there...

Another thing to remember is the less shifts u have or shifts at opportunistic times, will allow you to worry more about braking, body position, and stuffing your best friend into turn one...:lol

 

Exactly, for me its about moving your shifts to the best places on the track. I am running 15/43 and ride a tight track most of the year (Streets of Willow).

 

https://lifeatlean.com/the-effects-of-motorcycle-gearing-changes/

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

 

When I am deciding on gearing for a track generally take these steps:

1. Start with gearing that provides good drive for the slowest corner on the track, without being too jumpy that is.
2. Ensure that this gearing is not limiting top end speed on the straight. I usually just make sure I am still in the power band of 6th, rather than over-revving it.
3. Optimize other corners, such as changing gearing slightly to move a shift point that is troublesome or ensuring you get a good drive onto the largest straight of the track.

 

Gearing is using that which gets you the best laptime.

 

selecting Track Gearing.

Front | Rear | Ratio | % from Stock | RPM
16 .. | 41 . | 0.390 | 0.00% ...... | 12000
15 .. | 43 . | 0.348 | 11.87% ......| 13424

The rpm to gear and speed are generally linear equations.

Let's say there is a point on the track where rev's do not seem/feel ideal, like at the end of the longest straight, that's where normally start the decision process from.
In the example above, reaching ~12000rpm at end of straight with stock/current gearing and would like to be closer to peak rpm.
So, by going from 16/41 to 15/43 the rpm is expected to rise from 12000 to 13424. IE: 11.8% higher, because the gearing is 11.8% lower.

Tracks with tight corners leading onto a long straight, pretty critical to have optimal revs leaving the corner and peaking near end of straight.
So, another suggestion would be , try to optimize the revs based on both the tight corner exit revs and end of straight revs.
The objective being to keep the motor in the peak rpm/torque range for the longest period of time.

Streets of Willow might be a bit divergent because need to also as mentioned minimize the concentration factor required if end up shifting too much.

Quite a few tracks, dirt or road, you end up only using 2,3,4.... Sonoma is an example of that use case, more about flow than optimal rev ranges.

 

For my Yamahas, I have always gone -1/+2 from stock. That seems to be the best mix for the 5 different tracks that are near my hometown and is a good starting point.

I also agree that you want to make sure that you dont have to shift at the wrong time. With stock gearing I had to shift down into 2nd gear for a particular set of corners or it would bog the bike, it was really tough to shift at full lean. After re-gearing the bike I could stay in 3rd gear for that same set of corners and didnt bog the bike down. My lap times improved.

For tracks with those long straights I like to be looking for 7th gear right about the time its brake time.

This is another reason to video your track sessions and listen to your shifts and study where you can improve. You want to limit the constant shifting.

 

There's a reason why most riders are faster on a 600 and it has 0 to do with gearing. On a track there is only 1-2 long straights. So the drag racing mentality of topping out isn't the best idea.

The idea is for the rider to be comfortable enough to get on the gas earlier than before the change. Shortening the ratios by adding sprocket size in the back usually has more adverse effects. Most trackday warriors should concentrate on finding a good gearing for 2nd and 3rd.

 

Something else we used to consider was gear for the fastest turn on the track you can carry the gear instead of shifting mid corner, of course QS and autoblippers have solved most of that argument

 

Nothing is more demoralizing than seeing Reg or Jason Pridmore pass you on the outside with a passenger riding a stock 750 katana. :lol

 

Lmao, or on a 300, hasn’t happened to me, yet


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