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Which Motorcycle lift??

7.9K views 48 replies 19 participants last post by  valkarye636  
#1 ·
Finally got an R1, lots of work to do.

Would like get a lift, not sure if hyd or air is the way to go. Don’t wanna break the bank, but think I’d have trouble sleeping if the bike is sitting on a harbor freight lift.

For those of you who own or use a motorcycle lift, any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
Hi valkarye, I have one but I am in the UK. But since I had one i would not be without one. Mine you can use a compressor on the hydraulic foot pedal. The dog is too old to be working on my knees with mats. Also you can be right on top of the job when working on the bike.
They are great, 2muchblue or Ruben plus Chris and others on here will be able to give you advice on the better makes over there.
They are a must really for rebuilding bikes as are engine holder or jigs is for rebuilding engines, as you can turn engines at any angle for access are gre too.
I would consider getting a secondhand one too, you may be able to get a bargain rather than buying new.
Just remember to take the to take the hydraulic foot arm off, save taking your shins off [emoji1787][emoji106]. And never put it under the ramp like I did, big mistake, all my fault as it toppled the bike over, I was lucky not much damage. Here's a picture off mine. Good luck on getting a good one [emoji3577][emoji106]
Image


Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
#5 ·
Afternoon - Chris here.

The shop I frequent and sometimes work at, we use a titan:

Well there are a few lifts, but this is a great one.
 
#9 ·
@Jimmy boy. Dig it man, shits sweet. After researching a bit, there’s a ton of lifts out there with various options.

The HB model is hard to ignore at 500, and it looks like several other manufacturers have the same design. I really like how the 4 castor design let’s you movie it around easily.

Besides electric hydraulics, most seem to be powered by either air or a manual hydraulic foot pump. Some have both air and manual operation which is nice.

Thinking the dual function makes the most sense, but it looks like those manual foot pumps may get in the way.
 
#18 ·
Dropping the motor is one use. Changing the rear tire is another. The reason I say dropping the motor is because it can guide the decent. It's not absolutely necessary as with 2 people dropping the motor isn't especially hard. If you are a one man band it can be a chore though. Also to change the rear tire you can use a rear stand.
 
#14 ·
It’s been probably 10 years ago that I bought it. I think with all the components ( chassis lift was a option built for Yamaha R1’s) probably cost me 5k. Obviously everything has gone way up. Still would buy it though. I use it for all my bikes. Dirt , street, whatever. Would even work on Harleys if that’s what you rode.
 
#17 ·
Mine is air powered.
Image



For pulling the rear shock, I just hang out from the rafters....
 
#20 ·
That's more like an everyman cave. Car rack to die for, let alone the roof over the place.

The crap you go thru... cough it up. I mean, budget bike rack? Priorities are where? The rack is for life. Only a lifer buys a lift.. cheap or top of the line. I got it; no throwing parties, suds runs, eating out... for awhile... and the rack appears, not some my knees hurt, check my scissor jack some 40 years later?... that's what she said.

Signed,
NOLTT
 
#22 ·
Say parts down the road she goes out of business, parts are NA even at the factory, so buy our new one? That's now finding pump and air seals if either/or takes a dive. Hand pump is one main seal, and maybe one more.

Mine is a foot pump and finally gave out on the sealing side to lift the rack. Took the pump apart and ran around for this special seal. Gave up and called a seal company. Short story was 300 bucks to make a mold on a worn out part? More money to make the cast for the mold, then money for the finished seal.

I kind of studied the seal some. Had taken off the engine rubber mat off one of my test mules. I cut out 4 leaf clovers and layered them in a staggered formation until it met the height of the old seal. I had a drain pan at the time to catch the oil coming out, and kept filling the pump as it lost some on the way up.

Knock on steel, pan has been dry ever since.

Foot power is best. Foot is in stepping on a fine incremental move. Air takes too long to pinpoint like a foot would. You'd be messing with the air to match heights. I'd have so many stacks of wood blocks to air it down on those 4 corners to match the foot action.

As one event on the rack is to say lift the engine up to the frame? I'd like to see that with air assist controlling that same slow speed going up... on your mark, get set....''foot pumping takes too long.'' 😜
 
#23 ·
Say parts down the road she goes out of business, parts are NA even at the factory, so buy our new one? That's now finding pump and air seals if either/or takes a dive. Hand pump is one main seal, and maybe one more.

Mine is a foot pump and finally gave out on the sealing side to lift the rack. Took the pump apart and ran around for this special seal. Gave up and called a seal company. Short story was 300 bucks to make a mold on a worn out part? More money to make the cast for the mold, then money for the finished seal.

I kind of studied the seal some. Had taken off the engine rubber mat off one of my test mules. I cut out 4 leaf clovers and layered them in a staggered formation until it met the height of the old seal. I had a drain pan at the time to catch the oil coming out, and kept filling the pump as it lost some on the way up.

Knock on steel, pan has been dry ever since.

Foot power is best. Foot is in stepping on a fine incremental move. Air takes too long to pinpoint like a foot would. You'd be messing with the air to match heights. I'd have so many stacks of wood blocks to air it down on those 4 corners to match the foot action.

As one event on the rack is to say lift the engine up to the frame? I'd like to see that with air assist controlling that same slow speed going up... on your mark, get set....''foot pumping takes too long.'' 😜
Whatever you Gotta tell yourself to justify working harder not smarter. The airlift is so easy, and very easily controlled at any speed up or down
 
#24 ·
I agree. I am back and forth on both on almost a daily basis telling myself about both racks I deal with. I'm just saying that air has it's good and bad, but working less harder means more accuracy with foot assist. Less parts needed down the road with NA up front, means less parts needed are smarter.

Signed,
NOLTT (no other lift than this)

😎🎲
 
#26 ·
My air powered one raiese in about 5 seconds. There are steped interlocks every 6" or so and it is trivial to stop it any one you want. My lift is ~20 years old.and still works great, with nothing to fix except greasing the pivots every now and then.
 
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#27 ·
What I love about the 'faster' part of pump vs air is... we are talking almost less than a minute from getting there at full lift. I mean, how much 'time' is this if you are not going anywhere with the bike?

Pun~ not buying it to save a few seconds to break the bank?

Signed,
No One Listens To Training... Look at that leg muscle exercise you're missing out on :LOL:🎠
 
#28 ·
What I love about the 'faster' part of pump vs air is... we are talking almost less than a minute from getting there at full lift. I mean, how much 'time' is this if you are not going anywhere with the bike?

Pun~ not buying it to save a few seconds to break the bank?

Signed,
No One Listens To Training... Look at that leg muscle exercise you're missing out on :LOL:🎠
experience using the foot pump says you should've bought the air pump model; foot pumping gets old and takes time. if you use lift for parking space AND the lift takes up less space when raised (very important). in winter i keep two snow blowers on lift and have to raise everytime i use them.

yes, foot pump model cost less, but air pump model is far better
 
#33 ·
I went with the Handy Standard 1200. Great lift and the height it goes to means no bending over at all. Very well built product.