I'm using 300v for the first time.

Been using Amsoil 10w40 for a long time.

I like them both.

What I have noticed is that Amsoil gets darker in the site glass a lot fast which indicates to me that it has a LOT of detergents that clean the engine.

The 300v stays green for a while and has another shifting.

Not sure if I'm going to go back to Amsoil or not but I do know that Amsoil is doing something in there to keep the engine clean.

 

because it's a race oil that probably isn't designed to last more than 3k miles. yamalube definitely suggest not using their race oil for street use.
it says it will not perform through a full service interval. I guess it lacks some kind of ingredients to clean the engine for extended service intervals.

yamalube made my engine quieter than the 10w40 motul 7100 I was using. this time I tried the 10w 60 7100. so far it seems a little quieter. (mellowing the yamaha tick)

 

I'm doing the Yamalube on the M, with their 100K miles warranty deal.

 

I am not a fan of Yamalube. When I drain yamalube out it always has the viscosity of water. Amsoil with the same mileage still has great viscosity.

 

at least yamalube is ester. amsoil wont say what theirs has as a base. ester is the best you can get.

 

my dealer didn't have the 15W30 Yamalube. so I put in the 15W50 the 15W50 is what they used after the recall. felt and shifted better than the Amsoil 10W40.

 

Motul 300v makes shifting smoother.

But…

Amsoil seems to clean the engine better. You can literally see the oil get very dark very quickly through the site glass.

 

If it's getting dark on you quicker that means it's absorbing carbon which motul has additives that fight against it.if your oil gets dark quickly your engine is running way to rich

 

try motul's 7100. it's ester too. you can get it in many viscosities also

 

Not very much ester - it's mostly Group 3 base.

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What's this talk that Randy is saying about 300v doesn't last long on a normal oil change interval?

Any evidence behind it?

 

How quickly the oil goes dark depends a a number of things, mostly how much is left in the system after you drain the oil.

I'd be more worried if it didn't go dark, as that means the detergents in the oil aren't doing their job.

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Mainly all the discoloration and contaminates in oil comes from the combustion process synthetic absorbs it quicker but bottom line is if it gets dark quick it's to dam rich I guarantee you his afr's are in the 12's

 

I have a 99 with carbs so it is probably leaner than a modern bike.

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What people call lean theses days is not lean if your plugs and exhaust aren't white and your not running excessively hot your not running too lean.so many half ass tuners out there theses days just trying to get the bike off the Dyno and get payed they take the wrong route and run everybody rich because when they run proper afr's people complain about abrupt or aggressive throttle response and they don't want to are lazy or don't know how to properly tune that by going into ignition timing

 

I can tell you anything richer than 13.1 below 8 or 9k with less 50% throttle is absurd and is dumping fuel down your cylnder companies like sbu graves etc will run heavy on the rich side it's safer and will resist detonation if you happen to make a mistake and put 87 in or get bad fuel.

 

Been using 300v in my 05 since roughly when it had around 2k miles on it. Im no oil expert but here is my report from my last oil 3 changes. On my last change they advised me to check my air filter and sure enough it was filthy. (BMC race)

 

That's all I needed to know. Thank you.

 

Find another tuner one2 reputable tuner according to who word of mouth a guy that knows a guy someone people on the internet rave about?do they build and tune any engines that have won championships any tuner who recommends 12.8 that low is an idiot and most people don't know any better the reason you like that afr is because you think it's giving you smooth throttle when it's not your flooding it what is your ignition tables if he didn't tune that another good reason to look for another tuner.idk how long you have been running it like that but next time you change your plugs take a scope camera look in your Cylnders and I guarantee you you'll see scuffs all over in the up and down direction.bump your afr's to 13.2 and start adjusting your ignition to give you the throttle response you like don't flood the engine to do it.post photos of your exhaust is it black?

 

These aren't guys who know guys that know guys. These are reputable tuners that are a part of race teams.

I'm sure people on this forum will take Attack Performance and KWS word over yours. Something tells me that. :lol

And that's naming only 2.

 

Most power at 12.8 possible at higher rpm

 

Incorrect.

You need more fuel when under load.

 

So if 300V is the best then why is it when I goto the motul site and put my bike in it doesn't mention that oil but just the 7100?

 

Not sure but the lab results don't lie.

 

i us amsoil 10w40 on my 15 and i too also notice it gets a little brown quickly. Cleans very well. Amsoil says this is a pure ester oil. my afr's are in the 13.2 range and dip into 12.8 under heavy load and high TP

 

Sounds good. Thanks for your input.

 

So how is race oil like 300v going to be much difference then 7100 on the street?

 

It's not.people buy into wording too much it's simple if you race your bike you have to change the oil more often wether you use race oil or oem approved oil

 

Never mind just saw your tail pipes in another thread their black as hell.you say it builds most power at 12.8 yet your Dyno numbers are terrible an 08 cbr1000rr with a pipe and a decent tune makes more than that

 

See

 

If your running 10/40 300v or 10/40 7100 you may only notice a slight difference in shifting but if you do then chances are your a poor shifter.if your looking for a performance gain from oil you won't see any unless your running 5/15

 

5/15? Meaning the weight? I so a lot of Street riding with mostly a passenger and sometimes get on it while she is riding. So don't need something I have to constantly change

 

Yea the weight.never run that weight on the street lol.go with yamalube then.

 

@Thejman1000

Look, all this started because you stated that my bike was running very rich due to the oil getting a little dark which is not the case.

I don't doubt any of your statements as far as tuning.

 

I'm not trying to be a dick at all one2 I'm don't wanna see you damage your engine heavy black residue in the exhaust is wasted fuel your not burning it.just please check your cylnder walls when you change plugs with a camera their cheap 12.8 is to much that low go higher and pull ignition timing back in small increments if the throttle feels abrupt.im honestly just trying to help.be safe and have fun one2

 

I found a good read: Racing Oil vs. Street Oil: Know the Differences - EngineLabs

Seams as if Amsoil gets dark quicker like a lot of people are clearly experiencing is because it has really good addictives that keeps the engine cleans.

Looks like Amsoil 10w40 is a keeper.

And it's not just us. I did a search a long time ago and found that many people are experiencing the same thing with Amsoil in cars, trucks, dirt bikes, and all other engines.

 

they do mention motors with flat tappet cams need oils like racing oil because they can protect it better. our bikes have flat tappet cams. however I'm sure even the street motorcycle oils will meet these needs. which is why I wouldn't use a car oil in my bike. never have never will. but we will still have the guys that argue it meets api xxx or jaso xxx so it's good enough.

 

LMAO...you guys make me laugh! :lol Seriously though, good stuff in here! Some very important things discussed about a simple thing such as engine oil that I never knew or thought about.

 

i broke my engine in with the basic oil it comes with like you supposed to to help everything seat then changed out the oil for 300V at the first oil change because i was so pleased with it from my previous bike. the 300V is always clean and keeps its same basic colour for my engine. the 300V is supposed to have the best rating you can for how well it lubricates gears and other parts to keep them from contacting metal to metal its supposed to retain the film even under high pressure. i believe thats part of why it stays clean the engine isn't wearing out and dirtying the oil.

i just pulled the engine on my '15 R1M and tore it down to do my motor build and the inside of the engine is SPOTLESS. no black, no dirt, no wear marks on any of the transmission gears nothing on the shift forks the engine looks like it has maybe a couple hundred miles on it. some slight marks on the main journal bearings but i believe thats from the initial cold starts in winter to warm it up once a month.

i was told that the 300V doesn't meet yamahas exact spec for what they will warranty for whatever reason, but i know ducati use the 300V in their bikes it was what dealers where i am used as the standard so that leads me to believe its just yamahas criteria isn't met and not that theres an issue with it lasting.

as for the oil getting black from running rich thats more of an issue if your rings aren't seated properly. as zdamans oil analysis showed the fuel in his oil is negligible. its more concerning the oil mist going into the air box and causing carbon in the combustion chamber. he's running his oil more miles then a lot of people are and changing it once a season so thats even longer then the recommended 6 month intervals and its still within spec. thats good to see in hard facts. id say the colour change is the additives just darkening with the heat cycles. all the facts and studies and data sheets are out there on all these oils its probably better to look those up then get hearsay and urban oil legends from a forum.

 

Yep. That's exactly why I posted this link earlier: Racing Oil vs. Street Oil: Know the Differences - EngineLabs

How many miles were on your engine when you opened it?