Changing the battery solved my hard starting issues, dealer replaced it under warrenty when I had it 11 1/2 months

 

Thanks for the info. Did you have similar starting issues as I'm having?

 

my 09 starts after 2-3 cranks when it sits for a while. it starting to bother me a bit as well.

 

Yep, the new battery just gave it a bit of extra juice to spin the starter faster so it starts much better now! I didn't bother getting a fancy battery just the OEM replacement, she's been starting well since and that was about 2 months ago.

 

I will definitely get the battery checked out. I appreciate the feed back. After the battery gets replaced I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again

 

Well, I went to the dealership today, and they checked the battery. They battery is rated at 10 volts and was sitting there charged with 13 volts. They checked it while starting it, and it was running fine. Im seriously getting frustrated with this.

A friend of mine said he had a hard starting issue with his R1, which he fixed when he stuck the 2 Brothers Juice Box Pro with a 3/4 system.

 

Did they check it with the bike cranking?


Edit I need to read things better

 

Did it fall on the right side? If it did check the crank Position sensor, cover for a crack! this will cause hard starts if damaged.The small cover to the right

 

I have a hard time starting the bike too. I got pissed and went all out and bought a 12 cell ballistic evo2 battery. It still has trouble starting in the 40-50F degree weather. Good thing is that the battery doesn't die after 4 or 5 cranks. I wonder if it has to do with the power command. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

It could! mine doesn't have any fuel management on it and it starts fine hot or cold I just give it just a little throttle and bump the starter about twice cold and it fires up. Hot it fires first time.

 

Thanks, giving a small twist of the throttle helps on cold starts. Once its hot then it fires on first time.

 

seems like once youve owned the bike for one winter alot of these issues come about. I have the same problem and the dealer is clueless on how to fix it. I was preety pissed since it has been sitting in their shop for over a month waiting for an answer from Yamaha. So no one out there has heard of a fix to eliminate the need to twist the throttle? just seems odd to have to do this for this kind of bike! since i bought it the bike ran great, after i stored it over winter... it hasnt been able to fire up unless you give it a good 75 amp crank boost...

 

Is this a known issue I have been having trouble starting my bike for a while now and thinking back its been ever since a buddy dropped it on the right side. Looking online at parts there is a new cover as the old is available anymore. I think I may try this as I don't want to get screwed by dealership. Here is a link for the part.
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d72cf87002275461d7eb/crankcase-cover-1

 

Did replacing that cover fix your issue?

 

You're probably right Andrew. So I'll just give some info about my issue and see if replacing that cover fixes it.
I own a 2014 R1 and it always took 3-4 seconds to start up in 40-50 degree weather. I recently lowsided on the right side and everything seems to run fine (No issues with power loss or anything and no oil leaks) but when I try to start it in the same temp weather it just doesn't start at all anymore. I had to bump start it. Once the bike is warmed up or am in 80 degree weather it starts right up. I took it to a dealer to diagnose the issue and they couldn't figure it out. So after doing some google searching I came across this thread and here I am. That smaller crank cover is damaged and I just ordered a replacement to see if it fixes my issues. I will follow up when installed to hopefullly help some people out in the future.

 

I think someone already mentioned the pickup coil is under there but usually when they are damaged they have issues when hot not cold. What are you at for mileage? Your issue sounds like tight valves a bit but it's odd that it started happening when it fell over.

 

My mileage is at 5000. Would tight valves make it take longer to cold start? Maybe it was the original issue. After dropping it, it definitely made it worse though. It just cranks and doesn't start in the cold.

 

At 5,000 no it wouldn't be tight valves. At 50,000 maybe. Pickup coil or a plug or wiring on the right side that may have been damaged is what comes to mind.

 

I also mentioned that I took it to the local Yamaha dealership and after trying to diagnose why it wouldn't start in the cold they basically told me they couldn't figure out why. They mentioned that it could be tight valves also but they would charge me 1 grand to check. I told them no since they are most likely in spec and that it's not worth the money. I feel like it should be such a simple fix since it starts like normal in 70 degrees plus. I did order the new cover anyways just to see if it fixes it.

 

With tight valves when it's cold it actually just slightly holds the valves open too much and it creates really poor compression and really bad vacuum so it doesn't suck fuel in. I had a CBR that suffered from it when I got it but it had I think 60,000 miles. Unless you bought a bike that was motor swapped or the odometer was rolled back a lot then that wouldn't be the case. My best guess is the sensor on the inside of that cover got damaged and it isn't so much about the cover itself. If you unplug it there should be a testing procedure in the service manual if you have a volt meter

 

I was thinking the same thing which is why I didn't do it. They actually charge something like 98 an hour and they tried to explain to me that it is a very labor intensive thing to do a valve check. I believe they said 6 hours just to do the check and another 4 if they have to adjust it. I just took my bike and left... So just downloaded a service manual I found on this forum and going to give it a read. That sensor you mentioned; is it separate from the pick up coil or is it part of the same assembly?

 

I was thinking the same thing which is why I didn't do it. They actually charge something like 98 an hour and they tried to explain to me that it is a very labor intensive thing to do a valve check. I believe they said 6 hours just to do the check and another 4 if they have to adjust it. I just took my bike and left... So just downloaded a service manual I found on this forum and going to give it a read. That sensor you mentioned; is it separate from the pick up coil or is it part of the same assembly?

That's because most of the technicians at any dealership are incompetent. I wouldn't trust anyone working on my bike because they don't give a shiout about your bike. It's as simple as taking the tank off, moving a few cables and gas lines out of the way to take the top cam/valve cover off. A quick check with the feeler gage and your done (unless you have to adjust the valves which is pretty rare and not that difficult either). Quick work not nearly costing a thousand dollars.

 

So I received the new crankcase cover yesterday, installed it. And attempted to start the bike this morning around 50 degree temp. Cranked it for 5 seconds, no start. Waited 10 seconds and cranked again and it actually started. So now it starts but takes longer than before. I'll start it tomorrow as well just to see if it still has to crank that long to start. The parts inside showed no sign of damage. There is another problem now. The engine was making a squealing noise that it never made before, kind of like a slipping serpentine belt on a car until the engine warmed up for about a minute. It was coming from the top of the engine and would get louder with blips of throttle, clutch and gear changes didn't affect the noise. I'm guessing that it is probably the cct or chain guide. Maybe that was the original issue that caused longer cold starts and the shock from the drop made it worse. Any thoughts?

 

over tight cct can cause a whining noise. is yours manual?

 

a thousand bucks is steep. i took my 15' into the shop and i did it in about 5 hours. on the 15's you have to drain and remove the rad to get the valve cover out, it only can be removed from the front of the bike. measuring pulling out the came and then retiming the motor, burping the system. ten hours is a lot especially on the 1st gen x-planes. find a new shop. maybe upload a video of the squealing

 

Just wanted to put an ending to this thread in case anyone has any issues with starting in the cold and come across this thread through google or something. My bike would usually take around 4 seconds to start up in 50 degree or lower temps. I low sided a while ago and it turned into No start at all until temps were around 65-70 degree temps (Had to bump start in the cold). I replaced both that small cover and the bigger one that is under it and it actually fixed it. It went back to 4 second starts in those chilly temps. I decided to check the valves with the help of a buddy of mine. All valves were within spec but a few of the exhaust valves were barely within spec on the tight side. So we switched shims out to put them on the looser end. Now the bike starts up right away in the cold. So in my case adjusting the valve clearances actually solved my original issue. The engine still is a little noisy at all temps and it whines a little bit (not loud whining, just noticeable) until engine hits around 110 degrees. I had the chance to hear another cross plane r1 cold start and it sounded very similar. Maybe changing the cct will make the sound go away but other than the sound I don't think it will be an issue. Now I smile when my bike starts up instantly in the cold. Thanks for the help Andrew, See ya around.

 

As the unfortunate person who probably has had the most trouble with this issue of anyone here (being that I live in Massachusetts and generally try ride my bike pretty much all year round except for when there is snow on the ground), I'm very curious... how many miles did you have on your bike when you adjusted your valves and found the exhaust ones to be on the tight side?

My previous R1 (2012 that I bought used with about 800 miles on it 4 years ago) pretty much always started like crap in the cold, even the first year I had it when it only had about 2500 miles on it by the time cooler temps rolled around. It did seem to get progressively worse as the bike got older. By the time it got totaled at 9K miles last November 25th, it was really tough to start in any temps below 40 degrees, and there would be a noticeable increase in starting difficulty below around 52-55 degrees F. It absolutely would not start at all below 31-33 degrees, but had been like that for at least 2 years. It's left me stranded at work probably 5 or 6 times when I came outside at night to start the bike up when it was below 40 degrees out. I actually keep a spare battery charger in my desk at work for just this reason and have had to use it a bunch of times on that old bike to charge the bike back up after the battery was killed from trying to cold start it and then waiting until morning and leaving when it's warmer out. It would be nice if there was a convenient way to use a block heater on the bike... as ridiculous as that sounds. Haha.

 

I'm glad that worked out for you. I'm amazed there was an issue with clearance for such low mileage that's very unusual.

 

I hear ya, I've put 40,000 miles on a few of my inline 4 cylinder sport bikes that never needed valve adjustments.

 

I have a 15 R1 and having the same issues as you guys. There isn't a comprehensive thread like this in the 2015 section so I'd like to join this conversation.

My problem is similar to Nsecure805. I have about 8k miles and the bike has progressively become more difficult to start. My bike has a custom tuned FTECU flash with a 3/4 Yosh. I have to keep the throttle cracked to start it and keep it slightly reved for about 10 seconds before it will idle. After that if fires right up.

Things I have tried.
210 CCA Shorai battery (seemed to mask the problem, but it came back)
Checked cam chain tension.
Checked crank position sensor (in spec)
Checked coolant temp sensor (ECT, slightly off spec, replaced. Didnt help)
Checked TPS values

Im thinking its a fuel delivery problem. Probably too lean during startup. Anyone try spraying some starter fluid into the intake during startup to see if it helps?

 

Anyone try spraying some starter fluid into the intake during startup to see if it helps?

There is a Mass Airflow Sensor in the airbox. Be careful using starting fluid in there because it might not be sensor safe for a delicate and clean sensor like a MAF sensor.

 

My bike is completely stock so I haven't got the chance to mess with flashing. Did the problem start after the custom FTECU flash or was it there beforehand. If it started after I would assume it is running too lean. You should check the spark plugs and see what color they are if they are clean or white it would mean it is running lean. (If they are brownish it is good). My issue was slightly different where once the bike was started it ran fine, I didn't have to keep it slightly revved for ten seconds to keep it from dying so I would assume it is probably not the valves like mine were. But maybe you would want to check them anyway. Good luck, Sorry I couldn't be more of a help.