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Engine Cutting Out

9.4K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  SySt  
#1 ·
I have been experiencing an intermittent problem with the engine cutting out. This started happening after a wreck during a rain race and has forced me to pull off of two other races since due to this problem. At one point during a race the engine completely cut out, it would still idle but twisting the throttle did nothing, the check engine light did display temporarily. I had to turn the bike off and restart it to be able to ride back to my pit. The second time I've experienced this cutting out was during a warm up lap and the engine felt like it was hitting the rev limiter but it was only at about 12k RPM (No, this is no an "S" model), but after rolling off the throttle and getting back the engine behaved normally until it randomly cut out again.

I have checked the stored codes, of which there were 14...Most of the codes relate to sensors or the IMU not being detected, which could be due to me disconnecting them during some CANbus testing. There was also a "latch up" code due to my wreck. So no clear indication of the problem. I have since put the lights back on the bike and rode around the street trying to replicate the issue and have not been able to. I'd like to get this figured out before my next race event, otherwise I don't know if it is just going to happen again next time I'm on track.

Has anyone had any similar issue?
 
#2 ·
i would write down the codes then clear them all and start over see what comes up. look for any damage in the wiring harness near where you had crash damage. a guy on here was just having an issue where a bunch of codes came up, yamaha gave him a new harness
 
#3 ·
Yeah, I have the codes written down and did clear them. I rode around on the street a bit to try and replicate the problem and could not, no codes present. I've checked that the fuel hose isn't kinked and started to inspect wiring and anything else that seems out of place as I tear the bike down. The bike went down on the right side and slid, no tumbling and there isn't very much for wiring on that side so I don't think any wires were abraided. I did notice on the left side of the bike that the oil pressure switch wire broke as I took the boot off of it. Or maybe it was already broken but held in place with a bad connection? I wonder if that could cause my symptoms. I thought it was the engine light that came on when the engine was cutting out, but maybe it was the oil pressure light instead.
 
#4 ·
It's unlikely that the oil pressure could set off that many codes. There's a ground connection on the frame right by the upper rear shock mount I think it has like 6-8 grounds going to it I would check that and your battery terminals at the very least. Good luck I hope something gives out instead of this staying a ghost issue forever
 
#6 ·
The TPS could also be well worth to check out. A guy over here had similar problems after the bike had been washed and then put away for storage for couple of weeks. In some way the water found a way into the TPS and then caused corrosion. The bike would not start until he used little bit of throttle and then it did exactly the same thing as your bike (cut out completely during riding). Apparently - with this type of throttle system - if the ECU momentarily loses contact with the TPS, everything goes apeshit. Also in this case it was less than clear from the error codes because the bike generated a number of error codes. Eventually the dealership nailed it down to the TPS.
 
#7 ·
Good information. I'll have to check all of the sensor functionalities in the diag mode this weekend.

My one other thought for why I can't replicate the problem is that water got into the wideband O2 sensor I have for the FTECU ActiveTune. The tail pipe did gather some debris and likely water too, which could have damaged or momentarily faulted the sensor I think. Or the exterior of the sensor got wet and got water into the reference air circuit of the sensor to cause faulty readings. It could be that the ActiveTune was just simply trying to overcompensate due to faulty readings and cause major lean/rich conditions. If I can't find anything else wrong I'll just plan on bringing a spare wideband sensor, front and rear wheel speed sensors and any other easy to replace parts that may be relevant to my next race weekend in case the problem persists.