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How do you slow down? Downshift first or brake?

16K views 63 replies 33 participants last post by  2k4r1ryder  
#1 ·
Hi guys,

I'm just wondering which is better when trying to slow down to take a corner on a race track?

Downshift first then brake or the other way around?

If downshift first, how much stress does the clutch and gearbox can take?

Thanks.

Cheers!
 
#10 ·
When i brake hard i use both breaks and downshifting a couple or 3 gears, but normally use breaks and then downshift to keep the engine from stalling.
 
#12 ·
I think it will depend of your speed before entering the corner . Personally I do think that i caress the brake more often than shifting down first specially in fast corners . Why ? simple you are always trying to drift a bit while maintaining stability and cornering speed . One of the best way to do it is to slow the front end just a little bit more than the rear before shifting it down and get the rear wheel spinning slightly on the gas. At very low speed you just shift down as you make sure there will be no issue with your transmission .
 
#14 ·


I don't ride my bike on the track, but if I did, I would brake, blip and downshift all simultaneously.

The purpose of blipping (as was already mentioned) is to match the wheel speed with the engine speed, as to not lock up the rear tire. The reason for doing this all simultaneously, is to shorten your braking zone (hense quicker lap times).

Riders that are fast on a closed racing course, brake very, very hard at the end of a fast straight, into a tight, slow corner, all the while they are blipping and downshifting at the same time.

If you're asking this question, (no disrespect) you shouldn't be taking a liter bike out on track. A riding school would also be in order.



Peace.




 
#16 ·
brake very, very hard at the end of a fast straight, into a tight, slow corner, all the while they are blipping
It is very difficult to be braking at max and blip the throttle at the same time. Even more to trail off the brakes after lean-in if you're still doing this.

I'm in the downshift and ease the clutch out without blipping while applying brakes with the greatest amount of control camp. Keeping it simple, fewer variables, and it still has the similar effect of helping slow you down.
 
#19 ·
Make sure you are as "one" with the bike as possible and use as much of your ass and legs as possible to anchor yourself to your bike. You should already have your ass a bit to the side in the seat. Dont take all the braking forces with your arms.

Dont SLAM the brakes but squeeze firmly. Just to let the front end suspension take the first hit without bottoming out. After that initial firm squeeze, give the brakes all the pressure you dare to. If you are going in fast, you can probably brake 100% without lifting the rear or overloading the front. Try to keep that hard pressure as long as you can, but as the speed goes down you will have to take a little pressure off the brakes when you feel the rear lift too much or the front loosing traction.

The important part is to brake HARD from the beginning of braking and after that try to only brake less and less to find the correct entry speed for the corner and only have very little braking being done after the turn-in. By braking like this it is easy to feel and use the traction. Adding MORE brake pressure near the end of braking is more risky as you "burn the candle in both ends".

This is a video from one of my track days. The interesting thing is the G-force graphs where you can see exactly how hard I am braking. It might not be 100% in sync but you will get my point.

Go to 6.40 minutes in, that is the longest straight on one of my fastest laps.

 
#27 ·
Make sure you are as "one" with the bike as possible and use as much of your ass and legs as possible to anchor yourself to your bike. You should already have your ass a bit to the side in the seat. Dont take all the braking forces with your arms.

Dont SLAM the brakes but squeeze firmly. Just to let the front end suspension take the first hit without bottoming out. After that initial firm squeeze, give the brakes all the pressure you dare to. If you are going in fast, you can probably brake 100% without lifting the rear or overloading the front. Try to keep that hard pressure as long as you can, but as the speed goes down you will have to take a little pressure off the brakes when you feel the rear lift too much or the front loosing traction.

The important part is to brake HARD from the beginning of braking and after that try to only brake less and less to find the correct entry speed for the corner and only have very little braking being done after the turn-in. By braking like this it is easy to feel and use the traction. Adding MORE brake pressure near the end of braking is more risky as you "burn the candle in both ends".

This is a video from one of my track days. The interesting thing is the G-force graphs where you can see exactly how hard I am braking. It might not be 100% in sync but you will get my point.

Go to 6.40 minutes in, that is the longest straight on one of my fastest laps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6hf7mgKvXs


I think the kickstand is down on your virtual bike...
 
#20 ·
Brakes or down shift

I hate to state the obvious but one is called brakes and one is a transmission.
Brake pads are easy to replace. Clutch plates are harder and transmissions are even harder and cost a lot more. Lose your front or rear brakes you van limp home. Lose a clutch or tyranny and not going to happen.

I race an R1 powered D-Sport racer in SCCA. I ride a Yamaha Venture. Use the brakes to slow both vehicles. Use the transmissions yo put power on the ground.
 
#23 ·


I hate to state the obvious but one is called brakes and one is a transmission.
Brake pads are easy to replace. Clutch plates are harder and transmissions are even harder and cost a lot more.


Brakes are cheap, engines are expensive -


"Brake pads are cheap. Engine rebuilds are not". Do all your braking with the brakes. The SKILL comes with doing both well at almost the same time.


Image




You are correct young grasshoppers.



This is why people blip the throttle, to match the engine speed with the wheel speed during downshifting, thus all braking is derived from the brakes, not the engine/transmission.



 
#22 ·
In 1982 'Keith Code' owner of 'California Super Bike School' told me, "Brake pads are cheap. Engine rebuilds are not". That still stands today. Do all your braking with the brakes. Save your engine. That means as you brake your saving the down shifting for last. The SKILL comes with doing both well at almost the same time.
 
#33 ·
I'll give another vote for braking first, then downshifting. As you roll off of the throttle you should be reaching for the brake, if you don't already have a few fingers on the lever. After initial braking I start downshifting blipping the throttle to match rev's. Engine braking can be a huge asset for slowing down quickly as long as you manage it well. With enough practice it will seem like one continuous smooth motion - rolling off into braking, and then braking, blipping, downshifting all at the same time. Getting to the point of doing it smooth and simultaneously will keep you on the gas longer and braking later leading up to turning in.
 
#34 ·
what is "blipping", technically? because I also notice a Blipper box on my flash tune interface..
 
#39 ·
"At the same damn time!" Extend a middle finger or something to reach out to that front brake, clench your left hand, and blip! Or just clutch and blip, usually slows the bike down enough to glide right through the corner.. I noticed a lot of people tend to brake when they don't need it.. Give it a try, it definitely helped me get better.
 
#40 ·
The way I came to understanding it from road race school is that you are down shifting because you are slowing down; not slowing down because you are downshifting. Brake hard, downshift to be ready for the next drive and as a by product it will assist in slowing you down.

My interpretation. Any resemblance to anything done by anyone who is fast is strictly coincidental.