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guys i'm retarded and didn't take those butterfly things out. Just the top part. I bolted down the block offs pretty tight. I think i'm alright but just wanted to make sure.

Anyway, I say take the radiator off as there was tons of room to work, but it does take awhile haha
most people leave them, so you should be fine.
 
I am close to being finished with mine. All I have left to do is put air box on and gas tank. I have the fairings off because I am changing the oil also. I gave a full service today oil, plugs, smog removal, fresh brake fluid, radiator flush, new air filter, and a bath. The smog pumps were a breeze it took longer to get gas tank and air box off than anything. I had pumps off and block off plates on between 10-15 minutes. If you use the Snap On tool listed here in the picture your job will be a breeze. I had no trouble whatsoever and did not even touch the radiator. I was able to get my Snap On digital torque wrench in there and torque the plugs to 13Nm. I have a few pictures if anybody needs to see more. By the pictures you can see the plugs were worn out and needing to be replaced. I had no cuts either with the tool I used.
I don't quite know how to tell you................but................somebody has stolen your ECU! :scared
 
I don't want to go through 34 pages but since the unburned fuel is now not being burned off by the AIS, the plates are making you bike run rich? I only ask b/c i am going to get a custom map done and i am thinking of doing this before i do the map.
the air is injected after the gasses leave the combustion chamber so it's not making it run rich.

but for the custom map to be accurate you will need to disable the ais whether with block off plates or by pluggung the hose.

so long story short, do the plates ( & any other mods) before getting you map.
 
You would! :rant

Dam perfectionist! :lol

I thought about it, but I'm going back in after the convention to do some tweaking etc. I'll probably do it then since I realized it's a pressurized area and doing it from the inside might help.
it also (I figure) ensures that all of the air that is drawn into the motor is cool & not from the top of the motor.

I've also taken the top of an FZ1 airbox & modified the scoop on it to fit upside down underneath this triangular area.
it faces forward & acts as an additional scoop that stick far enough forward to avoid the heated air from the motor too.
 
Sounds interesting! Can you tell us more? Or post pics?

Thanks!
first off, you'll have to excuse the dirty bike. I've been busy swapping parts between it & another to try to diagnose a problem with another guys bike.

you can see that I used orange RTV silicone to seal the entire box.

I don't know what more I can tell, except that the scoop that I added didn't turn out quite as functional is I envisioned when I started.
I would have had to lower the radiator to have the scoop be any larger. as you can see it's pretty much buried behind the lower triple tree.

who can say if it's making a difference in performance or not?

I like to experiment to see what works & what doesn't, for myself & not have to rely on hearsay.
that's not to mean that I don't listen to others opinions or Ideas, only that I weigh what I hear against what I know.
 

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I read all 35 pages, and no one, no where mentioned if you can do this mod to a stock bike, with no powercommander or different exhaust. As i have an 08 and plan on getting a 3/4 exhaust which includes the y-pipe, if i can just go ahead with this cheap install right now, and not have a problem with my bike running to lean or anything till i get my ehaust, filter, pcIII?
it won't hurt a bit.
 
here's a few.
 

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A'm i right when i think you have drilled a hole and made a "scoop" in to the "pressure box"?

If it's so, i guess you will have a pressure drop behind the frame and radiator compared to what you get from the airducts in the the front, don't you reduce the high speed airpressure buit up by the airducts then?
:dunno I don't have a pressure meter.

it worked OK for me.

also I'm not convinced that the ram air tubes actually pressurize the airbox.
 
Did this mod to my bike a few years ago & my rubber airbox plugs from Autozone totally failed (rotted away). Replaced them with Hi-temp silicone powdercoat plugs last night.

Took one of my Grave plates off to inspect the area. Kinda cruddy but nothing terrible, should these be cleaned up from time to time ?
as long as they're still sealing they shouldn't need any cleaning.
 
I did see that a while back. You? in the vid. I already had the block offs by the time I saw it though but thanks, a good bit of info.

I used a thin film of permatex on the outside perimeter of the Graves plates just to be safe. I don't need to be tearing that apart again to fix a seep.

Also did a spark plug and coolant change while I was at it. I mean I really don't want to get into that area again for a while.:lol

I cut down the supplied kit airbox plug and fit it on the inside of the box with silicone sealant and a zip tie. I can't imagine it would ever come loose. I just got a little lazy and didn't want to pull the airbox to get at that pipe.
are you sure you don't want to get back in there again? :lol

I wouldn't call you lazy, if you've done all that! it's a real bitch & not a lot of fun even if you have done it a few times!
 
oh, and the gasket that seals the airbox to the throttle boddies just up and vanished "like a fart in the wind" (to quote The Shawshank Redemption) ... so now i have to wait til Thursday to get my $1 gaskets to reinstall the airbox :(
are you sure? they sit in there pretty well & may look like it's missing even if it's not. & there are two of them, I assume you know??
 
Just installed the plates, took a LONG time.
Now the engine trouble light comes on, any ideas?
is it showing a code#?
just removing the smog stuff won't cause a light, you must have knocked something loose or perhaps forgot to reconnect the air temp plug at the rear of the airbox???
 
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