[DanQ]

No it's all good. I would imagine that's because the Yam oil is an Ohlins oil and they label their oils in a different way to viscosity...

5wt (if you know what I mean!) is what I go with too

I find it's relative if you know what you're working with all the time...

I'm actually going to call for my own edification. When I revalve forks the kit calls for 5 wt, so I don't have a problem. But I'd like to know definitively what to do when I'm just servicing the stock cartridges. I may just have to start carrying Yamaha 01 and bite the bullet.

 

[im2fast2furious]

But I'd like to know definitively what to do when I'm just servicing the stock cartridges. I may just have to start carrying Yamaha 01 and bite the bullet.

Here is what silkolene recommend as a direct replacement.

http://www.silkolene.com/index.php?calling=prodsearch

Having said that I had that stuff bought and brought back the 2.5 for 7.5 on the strenght of what Maxton said. Now they said basically to get the forks working right they need to be machined and totally altered as the damping is poor. Which I got done on my 08 forks they are amazing. What they told me to do was "definately use 5wt, 2.5 was way to light and infact you probably need to use 10 wt" Now he nows I push the bike hard and what Irish roads are like so maybe that has some thing to do with it.:dunno
Is a lighter oil beter for track maybe?

 

[DanQ]

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/122/all/1/610/detail.aspx

 

[xdonniedarkox]

Want to say thanks to you Dan. My BST then rotors, then bush kit. It got too light, and the truth made my bike harder and easier to ride. I can muscle it but very unsorted feeling.

I went and did some canyon flowing yesterday and got into the settings.

Dan sent me a choice but sweet PM. Its about !REBOUND! boys.

My bike is riding so much better. Turn is still softbut because I set everything back to as stock settings as I could. Need to drop the triple 2-3 mm.

Thanks Dan your a legend... your contribution is worth many a :beer

 

[joe.blackr1]

as the days and corners go by faster and faster, i noticed that when im off the throttle (while in the power band) the bike is diving alot. more then i want it to... it is also making it hard to do some minor throttle adjustments in mid-corner to adjust my line... it is about time for its service (vavles oil and junk)
i was wondering if i can simply adjust the compression to help?
would i have to adjust the rebound as well?
should i just take it to race tech and let them deal with it for $20 plus gas $

 

[DanQ]

as the days and corners go by faster and faster, i noticed that when im off the throttle (while in the power band) the bike is diving alot. more then i want it to... it is also making it hard to do some minor throttle adjustments in mid-corner to adjust my line... it is about time for its service (vavles oil and junk)
i was wondering if i can simply adjust the compression to help?
would i have to adjust the rebound as well?
should i just take it to race tech and let them deal with it for $20 plus gas $

You can increase the front compression slightly if your front and rear sag is sufficient. Remember, for track purposes you will likely want lower sag numbers (more preload) than normal street conditions.

As far as rebound damping, yes, you will want to double check rebound damping anytime you make other changes.

 

[DanQ]

Want to say thanks to you Dan. My BST then rotors, then bush kit. It got too light, and the truth made my bike harder and easier to ride. I can muscle it but very unsorted feeling.

I went and did some canyon flowing yesterday and got into the settings.

Dan sent me a choice but sweet PM. Its about !REBOUND! boys.

My bike is riding so much better. Turn is still softbut because I set everything back to as stock settings as I could. Need to drop the triple 2-3 mm.

Thanks Dan your a legend... your contribution is worth many a :beer

Good to hear you are getting it sorted. Lighter wheels can be the best modification to make. And also the trickiest to work around. Just be diligent about making small changes, and double check the rebound every step of the way. You'll get the handling better than it's ever been :thumbup

 

[joe.blackr1]

You can increase the front compression slightly if your front and rear sag is sufficient. Remember, for track purposes you will likely want lower sag numbers (more preload) than normal street conditions.

As far as rebound damping, yes, you will want to double check rebound damping anytime you make other changes.

awesome, i will have someone hook it up for me. thanks dan, as usual you rock :epimp

 

[chanmenie]

Tyre wear update

I knew that they looked vaguely familiar. A few of my friends ran them and switched to predominantly slicks (those are a real pain to read for me).

Rebound damping in the front and rear is a little too free (2 clicks maybe). Also, there is an extremely slight weave on the rear, so you may want to increase the compression damping slightly, but double check rebound in the rear if you adjust the compression.

The overall wear seems normal, but the air pressure gain was a bit large. Might want to check your starting pressures. If you are gaining that much your starting pressure may be low.

Thanks again Dan
I actually emailed Dave Moss who suggested 2 clicks off rebound front and rear and lower tyres preasures.

I have just returned from a full track day and the results are bloody amazing the symptoms have gone completely I started with 28F 26.5R which went to 31 / 30 off the wrmers and 33 / 32 off the track the tyres were as clean as a whistle with no adverse wear at all and just a nice matt black weave pattern, and by god were they sticky. I have deffintely doubled the life of my tyres which has more than paid for Dave's DVD's

I have also been watching Dave on OTT TV I had just seen the program on Tyres where he stated that the Supercorsas should be run 29/34 HOT which goes against anything else I'd been told but were obviously sopt on.
He suggests the lower presures for the 600's and the higher for the point and shoot 1000's The guy is a genius.

 

[DanQ]

Thanks again Dan
I actually emailed Dave Moss who suggested 2 clicks off rebound front and rear and lower tyres preasures.

I have just returned from a full track day and the results are bloody amazing the symptoms have gone completely I started with 28F 26.5R which went to 31 / 30 off the wrmers and 33 / 32 off the track the tyres were as clean as a whistle with no adverse wear at all and just a nice matt black weave pattern, and by god were they sticky. I have deffintely doubled the life of my tyres which has more than paid for Dave's DVD's

I have also been watching Dave on OTT TV I had just seen the program on Tyres where he stated that the Supercorsas should be run 29/34 HOT which goes against anything else I'd been told but were obviously sopt on.
He suggests the lower presures for the 600's and the higher for the point and shoot 1000's The guy is a genius.

Sounds good. He's definitely a genius for sure. :fact

 

[im2fast2furious]

Hi Dan, The bike seems to be doing well from the fork overhaul.
I am going to set up a friends suspension on his k7. He is lost with it.
I could really do with some advise on how to set the high and low comp. on the front of them I was told they had this adjustment on the front. Is the high set under max breaking effort if so how do you know where to set the low speed front comp?
Any advise on this would be great thanks.

 

[DanQ]

Hi Dan, The bike seems to be doing well from the fork overhaul.
I am going to set up a friends suspension on his k7. He is lost with it.
I could really do with some advise on how to set the high and low comp. on the front of them I was told they had this adjustment on the front. Is the high set under max breaking effort if so how do you know where to set the low speed front comp?
Any advise on this would be great thanks.

You know, I don't know that we've had a lot of high speed compression damping discussion. So it's a good point to bring up.

The terms high and low speed when discussing damping refers to the valves ability to to control different speed fork or shaft speed movement. Your low speed damping is the primary adjustment, used for balancing the chassis and smooth bumps in the road surface. The high speed damping is used to control the sharp edge bumps, such as paving joints or ripples in the road surface. With that being said, focus on the low speed damping and adjust the high speed damping to about 1/2 it's adjustment. Just like fine tuning the low speed damping, the high speed will be adjusted to taste. Best to find a stretch of road with sharp edge irregularities or ripples to adjust. If it feels like the suspension is moving too far under those conditions, add high speed damping. If it feels like it's too rough and you'll lose your dental work, open up the high speed damping some.

Most folks continue to focus on low speed and rebound as they are tuning this, and I've heard that some ignore the high speed damping on some models altogether.

As always, make small changes, and carefully monitor the tires. Do not sacrifice traction for feel if you can avoid it.

 

[im2fast2furious]

OK Thanks Dan:thumbup

So In setting up this suspension would it be fair to say to do it this way.

1 set the sag front and rear
2 set the rebound on the front
3 set the both comps half way
4 tell the rider to go up the road and break heavy with a cable tie on the fork and adjust from there with the high speed?
5 use the low speed primarely now too adjust for bumps and high speed if now needed only?
6with the rear sag adjusted adjust the rebound
7adjust the low speed rear damping for the road surface??? And then balance the bike by pushing down on the tank and using the high speed comp to do this. ( do I have that part the right way around)?
8Once this is all done fine tune from there.

Thanks for the info as always Dan, all these extra adjustments make things a lot more difficult.:fact

 

[DanQ]

OK Thanks Dan:thumbup

So In setting up this suspension would it be fair to say to do it this way.

1 set the sag front and rear
2 set the rebound on the front
3 set the both comps half way
4 tell the rider to go up the road and break heavy with a cable tie on the fork and adjust from there with the high speed?
5 use the low speed primarely now too adjust for bumps and high speed if now needed only?
6with the rear sag adjusted adjust the rebound
7adjust the low speed rear damping for the road surface??? And then balance the bike by pushing down on the tank and using the high speed comp to do this. ( do I have that part the right way around)?
8Once this is all done fine tune from there.

Thanks for the info as always Dan, all these extra adjustments make things a lot more difficult.:fact

You got most of it right. And if I've said something to mislead you on the high speed compression I apologize. I've seen several posts similar to yours regarding the high speed compression, so I emailed Dave Moss to double check that I wasn't going insane. (I wasn't... he gets the same question regarding brakes and high speed compression).

Try this:

• set the sag front and rear
• set the rebound front and rear
• set the low speed compression to feel, front and rear
• balance the bike making fine adjustments to rebound and compression after pushing down at the gas cap and rear of the rider seat, to ensure the downward and upward movement is similar
• fine tune the high speed compression as needed from rider feedback over rough surfaces to maintain traction

 

[im2fast2furious]

You got most of it right. And if I've said something to mislead you on the high speed compression I apologize. I've seen several posts similar to yours regarding the high speed compression, so I emailed Dave Moss to double check that I wasn't going insane. (I wasn't... he gets the same question regarding brakes and high speed compression).

Try this:

• set the sag front and rear
• set the rebound front and rear
• set the low speed compression to feel, front and rear
• balance the bike making fine adjustments to rebound and compression after pushing down at the gas cap and rear of the rider seat, to ensure the downward and upward movement is similar
• fine tune the high speed compression as needed from rider feedback over rough surfaces to maintain traction

Thanks Dan,
I only just saw your post now. I managed to set it up for him last night. I set it up exactly as you said there but I did the sag first both ends, then finished the front end , set the rear rebound, balanced the bike and then went at the high speed.
Good to know to do both rebounds together now for next time.:thumbup

It turned out well anyway the friend I set it for was grinning from ear to ear, he is off to the Nurrinburg ring this morning on the k7, so I think he will enjoy his bike on a whole other level, thanks again.

One thing I noticed is that stock settings are real good on this suspension, most adjusters were left halfway and some only needed 1 or 2 clicks of fine tuning. Having said that too he is probably the ideal weight for the bike.
Takes a while though to set up a suspension with that much adjustment.

 

[DanQ]

Thanks Dan,
I only just saw your post now. I managed to set it up for him last night. I set it up exactly as you said there but I did the sag first both ends, then finished the front end , set the rear rebound, balanced the bike and then went at the high speed.
Good to know to do both rebounds together now for next time.:thumbup

It turned out well anyway the friend I set it for was grinning from ear to ear, he is off to the Nurrinburg ring this morning on the k7, so I think he will enjoy his bike on a whole other level, thanks again.

One thing I noticed is that stock settings are real good on this suspension, most adjusters were left halfway and some only needed 1 or 2 clicks of fine tuning. Having said that too he is probably the ideal weight for the bike.
Takes a while though to set up a suspension with that much adjustment.

Good to hear. I've actually seen many of the later bikes OEM settings work pretty well when the weight is on or close and the fluids are fresh.

Very glad to hear you were able to help your friend out :thumbup

 

[im2fast2furious]

I thought some of you guys might find it interesting, to know about how the 02/03 forks preformed after the silkolene rst 7.5wt oil change and the 105mm depth oil level.
The front end is absolutely amazing!! It really is I was thinking of sending the forks off before, to get some work done on them but there is no need at all. They are that good. To put it in perspective my 08 bike has maxton uprated front forks, bst, rims, ceramic discs and Ti bolts. And I am begining to think the 03 bike handles better!! Maybe its the full set of pure powers
Two things I have noticed that may make it even better is that, as Dan said the oil gap could even be put to 110mm and 10wt could even be used, I certainly wouldn't dream of putting anything thinner in, as It probably needs a touch thicker oil to improve the damping even further. Having said that the set up at the moment is real nice and I would almost be afraid to alter it.

 

[max the lion]

I'll start at the beginning here, I have been in touch with Dan a fair bit over this but thought I should post up to share and gain from everyone else. Even though some of you know what I'm currently doing some other do not so here it is.

I have an 03 model trackbike that I have acquired a set of PHD triple clamps for which have come off an ex Virgin Yamaha BSB bike, they have an adjustable offset of 30mm and 35mm and adjustable head / rake angle by means of an angled bearing cup.

I am running them at 30mm offset.

pics below:

these are the adjustable angle bearing cups. They are 0.5mm deeper at the larger offset side than the other, this when worked out using trigonometry gives a difference in rake angle of 0.6'. And the way I have them fitted which is the same way they where on the BSB bike is making the rake angle 23.4'.

Actually after a re think at 02:26am :-0 I may of extended the rake angle to 24.6' , instead of decreased it to 23.4' which would extend the trail slightly instead of decrease it. Need help on this bit.

Here's a diagram drawn by kangaroo for me when I was struggling with the concept of how to install them, this shows the standard center line of the headstock and the new center line ( in red ) with these triples fitted.

By installing these I have increased the offset from 25mm to 30mm and reduced the rake to 23.4' which for some reason has made it a bit reluctant to drop in to the turn at first, needs a bit of muscling in. Which I expected the opposite.

According to my calculations I have reduced the rake angle by 0.6' which by my reconning should of also reduced the trail as the angle has become smaller thus bringing the front wheel closer in. Also by increasing the offset I have also reduced the trail. So this in my thinking should make the bike quicker steering in the initial turn in and not more hesitant which is how it seems.

After trying it on the track with the forks at standard height in the triples and rear at standard settings on ride height Dan has advised to drop the forks thro a little to try and gain some of the initial corner entry agility back before altering the rear with the adjustable dog bone linkage.

Have I got my thinking correct on the reduced trail and rake or have I got it all the wrong way round.

 

[xdonniedarkox]

Playing with rake is a black art...:fact

 

[max the lion]

Playing with rake is a black art...:fact

I'm finding that out.