not all of hindles options are steel. the $500 one is. but it's still a lot lighter than the stock converter.

and it was already proven that the R1M isn't any faster than the R1s. it was beat in every category by the R1s.
2016 Yamaha YZF-R1M vs. YZF-R1S Sportbike COMPARISON TEST | Cycle World


all this ti stuff on the r1 and r1m means nothing to regular joes like most of us are.

 

I´m sure there are titanium options from hindle.. but I wasn´t referring to that exhaust alone. Plus IMO.. I´d rather have as much less weight as possible on my bike specially since I´m only riding at the track now.

And about that article... I´m sure statistically speaking one test from one magazine means that it is a fact... :serious:

 

I got my Hindle 3/4 and my Austin Racing belly plate installed, it all turned out great, this really is a nice exhaust for the price.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T52p-51LFbE

Glad you like the pipe...

this bike is all titanium and magnesium.. to put on a steel exhaust is a waste IMO. The benefit from an exhaust power wise is minimal on this bike.. the benefit on weight savings(specially from titanium) are huge... braking, handling, acceleration.. etc.

If I had an R1S.. I´d rapidly go to ebay and buy a used R1 OEM titanium header and then pick up any titanium linkpipe/exhaust of my liking.

I posted weights of my Hindle exhaust online, it was within 0.5lbs of the Graves. Mine weighted in at 4lbs 12oz... Graves is advertised as 4 lbs 6.5oz

Weight info & pictures, just 'cuz I'm too lazy to repost: Band Of Riders - View Single Post - 2015 Yamaha R1 Track Prep (+ Weight info)

not all of hindles options are steel. the $500 one is. but it's still a lot lighter than the stock converter.

and it was already proven that the R1M isn't any faster than the R1s. it was beat in every category by the R1s.
2016 Yamaha YZF-R1M vs. YZF-R1S Sportbike COMPARISON TEST | Cycle World


all this ti stuff on the r1 and r1m means nothing to regular joes like most of us are.

Read the article this morning and disagree with it. I mean, don't get me wrong, the R1S and R1M are meant for different customers entirely, however the shootout was performed on stock bikes with stock maps.

The R1/R1M engine is detuned from the factory due to EPA. So really they're close because the R1 can't use all its power and that extra over-rev is just that...

Uncork the R1 and run the test again.

Will that extra 2k matter to most people in the real world? Meh, probably not... but the shootout was compromised from the beginning and of course, they're comparing to the R1M, not even the R1, which is better priced and doesn't include the things most people don't 'need.'

 

Read the article this morning and disagree with it. I mean, don't get me wrong, the R1S and R1M are meant for different customers entirely, however the shootout was performed on stock bikes with stock maps.

The R1/R1M engine is detuned from the factory due to EPA. So really they're close because the R1 can't use all its power and that extra over-rev is just that...

Uncork the R1 and run the test again.

Will that extra 2k matter to most people in the real world? Meh, probably not... but the shootout was compromised from the beginning and of course, they're comparing to the R1M, not even the R1, which is better priced and doesn't include the things most people don't 'need.'

The bikes suffer from the same ECU restrictions, meaning if they were unrestricted the results would still be identical to what they are now (albeit faster) due to the same ability to tune them.

I don't know the exact gains but let's say the HP gain is +18 and the torque increase is +5, that would add +18 and +5 to both bikes, so the difference between them would be what it is currently, just at a higher HP/torque rating.

In a nutshell, the results on a track between these two bikes are negligible and in reality almost identical, and with an unrestricted ECU this would continue to be the case.

 

4-500 a month? whoah! Why so much? I pay 1300 a year for full coverage on my 2016 R1.

But I also have accident prevention, good rider, Anti Lock Brakes, Theft Recovery device and other discounts applied to my policy.

And I am with Allstate they are notorious for charging more for premiums on a whole.

 

I KNOW!!! Not sure about age differences I'm almost 30, location NYC vs AZ, I've been a bad boy in the past but nothing recent or on record i don't think, maybe 1 speeding ticket, but my 35,000$ car is only like 130$ per month for full coverage. I checked EVERYWHERE about full coverage on a new R1 and yeah it was 4-500$ a month, 1000$ deductible and that is even with comprehensive taken off(low $400's), only collision. I couldn't believe it. But you go a few years older on the bike and it drops drastically. I picked up my currently troublesome 2012 R1 with only 1300 miles for 9k and it's only 160$ a month. Drop it to liability only and they all go to like 35$ a month lol. It could be NYC has a "riding season" in AZ all year is riding season and my bike is going to be my daily.

 

I am still curious how "R1S came close to the performance levels of R1M" was interpreted as "R1S beat R1M in every category" and on top of that "already proven"...

 

Im curious to how you cant read the results properly.
The r1s beat the r1m in basically all the tests they did. The 0-60 time it stomped the r1m. 2.7 vs 3.3. Thats a big margin at those speeds.

The track test was basically a tie. As 1 rider was able to run a faster lap on the s.

 

///3oris is correct.

I am sorry NYA, but without familiarity of how Engines, ESPECIALLY these engines produce power, you wont understand what the extra Top 2K end of the RPM would end result in power. Its not a mere 4-5 HP or 3-4 Torque.

Look, No one is shitting on your R1s. Its a very capable machine.. I cant stress that enough... This is not a pissing contest of who's got the bigger stick here... So please don't take it that way.

When you are looking at a Dyno Sheet, You are seeing how the engine makes power. If the dyno sheets tapered off hugely from left to right on the top end, then this conversation would be null. But Having your Rev range be cut short at 12200 versus 14200 is a BIG deal in terms of power for these bikes specifically. When all the highest power is made on the very top end of any DYNO pull in ANY gear, what that means is that three bikes on a straight away (a 20 mile runway strip for example) one R1s, one R1 and one R1M, with similar riders wearing all the same protective gear, weighing in at 200lb (for example) Launching their bikes off a dead stop, here is the play by play of what is going to occur here.

Off the line, R1S doesn't have launch control... The R1 and R1M take off a second or two ahead of the R1s (even if you are the most skilled rider you may cut that time down without a proper launch control system) Then come the gear shift, both the R1 and R1S are making more top end power in first gear bolting them a second or two ahead, but when the shift comes the fact that the R1S has to shift first, but takes more time to do the shift without the quick shifter, will lag the R1S behind the other two. The R1 and R1M stay close together, but the R1M is slightly lighter, so power to weight will bolster it slightly ahead in each gear change, where as the R1S will bolster slightly behind in each shift due to the lack of the quick shifter and the lower REV limit. The difference in suspension setups on all bikes will help keep the power on the ground in different ways. With the R1M being on the high end. In the end you will see the R1S coming in last, the R1 coming in second, and the R1M coming in first.

Yes these bikes in stock form are meant to make the same amount of power, but HOW they make their power is different... Thats the important part.

If and when you tune all three, the same will still apply... In similar circumstances, they will react the same way...

Now to you, someone that may street their bike 80-90 percent of the time, and take your R1S to the track, that may not matter, and that is okay... Nothing wrong with that, however the people that track their bike more so than the latter, will want every ounce of power and weight savings that they can squeeze out.
tly

One of the most contested oppositions right now to the R1 in the Liter bike category is the BMW S1000rr... That bike is fast, and in the beginning when the R1 was first released, the BMW would always win those side by side shootouts... Recently however, with the tuning coming up to par with what the BMW world has had for years due to having basically the same platform for years, that has changed... Now more and more R1's are shining in every shootout as of recent...

I love healthy competition, and I am a pretty competitive rider when it comes down to it. The first week I got my 2015, I flashed it and threw on an exhaust system. The first DAY I got my 2016, I did the same...

I for one will never judge someone for getting an R1S over an R1, each person has their own motivation for when it comes down to purchases.

But I can guarantee you, once the dyno's start coming out for the R1S's and the R1's for 2016, you will see the before and after effect of having the extra 2K Red Line,

Most of the shelf tunes will taper out at 178 for the R1... But look at this:
This is Superbikes unlimited's Tune of the R1, Its very Linear from left to right, and has a pretty smooth power delivery (almost no curves) Pay special attention to how the last 12,200 t0 14,200 you go from 170 something to 198 in power.
you WOULD NOT be able to do this on an R1S. The valves would start floating and you would be bouncing off the rev limiter. at 170 HP or so...

 

Here is the reality, and it's pixel accurate, you can check the image yourself if you want in photoshop, I got all of the peaks dead on at 1000% zoom.

Also I wouldn't use race fuel as a baseline, it's unrealistic and more of a benchmark than standard operation, regardless with race fuel the climb is even, it's just higher output.

182 HP vs. 192 HP on 92 octane pump gas, so it would be 10 HP different with an identical peak torque range, I'm not going to get into hardware debates that we both know are beyond us or hypothetical situations, the proof is in the pudding that you linked.

 

And for those of you that dont think dyno tuning with a good tuner can get you close to 200 HP WHP on these bikes... Seek to 14 Minutes and 10 seconds in this video below:

[ame]https://youtu.be/ri7NK8PiGOI?t=14m10s[/ame]

 

great post Munkyy.

 

again.. one test from one magazine with a lot of variables. That article is just an "interesting" read at the most.

 

I have to admit that I am an average Joe, non-professional, but spirited rider. And this thread has been quite entertaining to read.

I myself have the 2016 R1S (matte grey) and have been beyond pleased with my purchase. Everyone likes to talk a big game and try to appear more advanced than they really are, but truth be told 90% of us probably cannot tell the difference between the various R1 models. So, unless you're doing track days every weekend and/or participate in a league - does it really matter? Now, if you have the deep pockets then by all means get whatever your heart desires and feel great about it. But for these debates/arguments to go on and on - I just find it mildly entertaining.

I will also say that I have not regretted my decision to go with the R1S at all. I did pay some extra coin to have the OEM quickshifter installed (which for only $200 is well worth the expense), and did a 3/4 Akra exhaust system. The bike has more than enough power for someone like me and sounds tenacious. The bike does come stock with the launch control (contrary to someone's post earlier in the thread) and works so well. So for those of you still riding the fence on which model to go with, if you're like me - save the $1500(+/-) and go with the R1S, you'll be pleased. I will say that budget was not a factor in my decision; I paid cash for my bike and could have done so with any of the three, I just knew that with my experience (5+ years) and riding style, spending the extra coin was not going to improve my experience or make me a better rider.

Feel free to ask any questions if you'd like.

 

I will also say that I have not regretted my decision to go with the R1S at all.

Good, as you should be. The argument (at least for some of us) wasn't which is a better street bike, it was about the obvious flawed conclusions in the Cycle World "comparison test."

I will say that budget was not a factor in my decision; I paid cash for my bike and could have done so with any of the three, I just knew that with my experience (5+ years) and riding style, spending the extra coin was not going to improve my experience or make me a better rider..

Budget is always a factor, otherwise you'd have an R1M and wouldn't be justifying your R1S purchase. Just because you have money, doesn't mean you want to part with it. We all make these economic decisions; nothing wrong with them, but I wouldn't claim budget wasn't a factor when you just finished explaining that it was :fact

 

let me start by saying that the R1 and R1M and a different animal then the R1S and its comparing apples to oranges. you don't see guys buying the R1S with track performance in mind that isn't who it was made for thats not who its marketed to its the Same as the old R6 / R6S idea, slightly less performance at a better price point because it is for the street so think of it like an R1Street. on the street if were not breaking the laws to the extreme that this comparison requires no one will really notice a major difference the bike does 85mph in first gear thats speeding on just about every highway across America and for sure every highway in Canada. most the guys here who say they would never buy one still can't ride one worth sh1t anyways. pretty sure rossi on an S would beat everyone here. most bikes still use steel connecting rods so do cars most connecting rods are steel in some form the last generation was steel rods and still achieved a 14.5k redline. the S still has titanium valves just uses a different valve spring seat. i think someone here said the M has titanium valve springs, it does not titanium fractures no one has perfected those they are just a time bomb waiting to happen and destroy the rest of your motor is has titanium valves and maybe retainers do your homework. so if we get down to it, launch control, the launch control on here isn't great and an experienced rider can do better on his own then the lift control stalling out the engine abruptly. i do better with that stuff off and when i am messing around with buddies and i am side by side i see their wheel come up and then the bike drops back as lift control kicks in so maybe the r1 or m will be faster comparing rookie to rookie. same thing with the quick shifter an experienced rider doesn't need one and can shift within the milliseconds if not just as fast. if you disagree then that doesn't mean its not possible, it means your not capable. the rotating weight added by steel rods in this case is minimal but on the dyno might show up very slightly no one will notice on the street. the thing that will stand out and will put the r1 and the r1m ahead is the redline and ill explain this to the newer riders: lets say when you shift up a gear the rpm drops 5k rpm (just a number i chose don't be a c0ck and argue) using the graph above just to make it easy as an example in 3oris's post, you hold a period of 155+ hp for 2k rpm longer and when you shift you drop 5k and go to 9200 at which point your making 125hp. now on the R1S you shift sooner at 12.2k rpm only having revved enough to make 150hp and then drops 5k to 7200 rpm where the bike is now making 75hp, with the r1 still making 155+ he is accelerating away and by the time he shifts he will drop to 9200 that the S has made it to now. so for that 2k rpm the standard makes almost a hundred more hp then the S. thats where the real performance difference will be and if you can't understand that or want to argue it then your too stupid please don't, pickup a book and learn something before you open your mouth. the other place theres a noticable difference is the magnesium wheels. while the wheels are actually pretty heavy for magnesium and should be upgraded to something better still, for stock....they are great and do provide a noticable difference over aluminummuch easier to go from leaned one way to leaned the other but like i said not like something aftermarket. an S owner will be able to pickup titanium headers off a standard and magnesium wheels and quick shifter from guys who have gone aftermarket and a lot of people will all that will be picked up pretty cheap and then most of these arguments go out the window because even after upgrading all that the S was STILL cheaper and they got an exhaust and some other goodies and are done with their mods and the standard model guys just got the bike. so for anyone who thinks the S is sh1t, its not, its a really similar bike with a great price point especially if you know how to shop that can easily be made even better. to anyone who thinks the S has the same performance as the higher models it doesnt. its just a little bit heavier and a little bit slower with a little less flicability that was a lot cheaper, BUT to go toe to toe and ride it to the limit isn’t what it was bought for so its a useless argument. if you think I’m wrong grab your S and Lets go for a ride

 

Holy paragraphs Batman.

The R1M has ti valve springs? Didn't know that. Factual data please?

 

Someone said it has titanium valve Springs it doesn't. Titanium is brittle it snaps so they don't use it for springs they tried but they snap after a bit and shatter go into the rest of the engine havoc follows. They have titanium intake valves I said the standard the S and the M alike. Might have titanuim retainers but I don't know I just said it as a maybe but part numbers same across the board for those as well

 

Not sure about the valve springs (should be as I have a R1M) but I do know that Ducati Superleggara Ohlins rear shock has a titanium spring. Only reason I know as I said the same thing as you and was later proven wrong..

Ducati's 1299 Superleggera Is The Most Powerful Twin-Cylinder Production Bike It's Ever Produced | Cycle World

"Carbon fiber wheels save another 3.1 lbs. and offer less rolling resistance (26% less up front, and 44% less out back), while the updated Ohlins suspension drops another 4.1 lbs. (3 lbs. from the FL936 fork and 1.1 lbs. from the TTX36 shock with titanium spring). Claimed wet weight is just 368.2 lbs"

 

Damn, the lack of punctuation makes my brain hurt. Cliff notes?

 

this is all just mental masturbation.

the differences between the r1 and r1s are well known and it seems like an increasing amount of ppl are concluding the r1s is by far the best value. the things you give up arent a big deal to anyone except.. someone who wouldnt be buying an r1s no matter what anyway. only someone riding at the top of ama would be hindered by the r1s and such a person has their bikes built, so like.. duhhh.

the r1s is by far the smartest buy especially since the biggest difference between the models, which are the light weight rims on the r1/r1m, frankly arent that great.

you may as well save your money, 1500 plus, since thats alot of mods or alot of track days. yes, no quick shifter sucks, i liked the one on my r1 just fine. on my r1s i'll probly get a translogic and call it a day.

 

on my r1s i'll probly get a translogic and call it a day.

FYI - I purchased the OEM quick shifter and it works just fine, and is about the same price if not cheaper than some of the after market options. I paid only $189 for mine. Definitely worth it.

 

LOL, should this thread still be called "2016 R1 Exhaust?" or "R1 vs R1S" ? Seriously, it escalated quickly lol !

 

R1M>r1s

 

Yeah, the extra $7,000 was really worth it...

2016 Yamaha YZF-R1M vs. YZF-R1S Sportbike COMPARISON TEST | Cycle World

 

Here is an analogy, same but not really.
Kinda depends on your objectives and intentions.

If any doubt, that is the exact same swim-suit model.

For the manufacturer, who you trying to sell to, the person purchasing Jeans or Black silk dress?

 

So would an MT-10 be a nekkid swim-suit model?

 

went from 07 r1 to 16 r1m imo the ohlin shocks are worth the extra money, unbelievable cornering:grin2:

 

the R1M is kind of a bust. the "ohlins" suspension isn't anything on par with their off the shelf stuff you buy from a retailer. if you don't believe it's not just oem crap try to have them rebuilt and you will quickly find that ohlins doesn't sell the parts... and definitely isn't adequate for racing. this has been said so by many race teams including graves. so what's the point?
who the hell keeps stock fairings for racing? no one. so carbon fiber fairings=waste.
so who needs carbon fiber farings and over priced OEM suspension for street riding? no one. it's just bling. period.
the CCU is cool but it's also just $1200. not really worth it since only a hard core race team would be interested but it's not a serious tool and lacks many functions of professional grade systems offer. suce as being able to pull it up on a laptop instead of a pretend computer tablet. so they're not going to be using it. what can it tell an average track rider? not much since the guy on the 250 just went around you in the same corner lol the stock CCU = entertainment.

R1m...kind of a waste of money when you really crunch the numbers. you will appear to be the coolest guy on the block to most people. but to anyone that knows anything...not really

 

I was waiting to read that last line that simply states, "Cue mic drop." lol

 

The most weight savings I could get off my bike is the rider lmao

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

R1S ftw =]

 

all i heard was 'detuned R1'

the fvck..? you guys are overthinking. rewind, back to the facts.

EXACT SAME ENGINE WITH EXCEPTION OF 2016 RELATED UPDATES. SAME CHARACTER AND ELECTRONICS.

the different parts that the r1s gets are responsible for the lower redline. this is due to physics, not something yamaha did on purpose. i bet you my bike no one at yamaha, some engineer/marketing guy sat up in bed one morning and thought hmm lets drop the rev ceiling 2k just so these guys dont overdo it. crazy kids...

the lower redline due to heavier internals and blahblah is responsible for the 5 less horsepower. 5. five.

some of you guys are just inventing things out of thin air, or perhaps out of your ass =] us r1s riders made the smarter buy, no 2 ways about it. the 4 digit chunk of change i saved certainly helped me buy this fine scotch im drinking while i laugh at that dyno graphic that previous dumbass posted. 150hp r1? sure man.

my R1 getting stolen maybe wasnt so bad, my R1S i got for about 14,400 out the door including gap insurance. how much was yer R1M, boys?

..hmmm? sorry, cant hear you over the sound of all this money i saved

 

my R1S i got for about 14,400 out the door including gap insurance. how much was yer R1M, boys?

..hmmm? sorry, cant hear you over the sound of all this money i saved

Sorry if i missed something because i havent read the whole thing but you comparing the S to the M in terms of money saved is pretty ridiculous no? Sure $7-10k saved sounds better than $0-$1500(members have gotten the reg r1 for the same as the S) but the S and the M are very different beasts. I knew when they released the S there would be pissing matches so i went and got the biggest tarp i could afford>

 

Except my R1 was the same price, OTD. You lose.

 

No it wasn't.

 

It's quite salty in here, but that fake dyno graph was good for a laugh. Some kid that thinks mor $= more performance must have made that while he was bored in class and dreaming about new literbikes. We're all very fortunate to be on the latest spec R1 or R1S or R1M.

 

..... fake dyno graph was good for a laugh...

Full article here: http://www.ridersdomain.com/magazine/motorcycles/reviews/tested-2016-yamaha-yzf-r1s-review/

The delta in the chart is the magazine/author not including on the actual image that the R1M -->
2016 Yamaha YZF-R1S rear wheel horsepower and torque dyno comparison chart.
*R1M power numbers are with Yamaha’s track day/kit ECU (not currently available in the U.S.).
<--

Even if the HP levels were identical up to each bikes red-line, you are not gonna get around the fact the r1s engine internals are inferior, resulting in 2K less rpm range. All else equal, 2K rpm is going to win any legitimate track comparison who's objective is to not promote sales for the bike with the inferior engine internals.

 

Looks like a thread from the Suzuki forums.