Overall it doesn't look too bad. If it runs and everything seems to work, $2400 sounds ok.

 

Is he going to allow you to test ride it?

 

I hope so, that will be part of checking it out, I hear there can be issues with 2nd gear...I do know that it's going to be loud and I'll get an exhaust for it.

 

With no exhaust it will be obnoxiously loud. You better have some really good ear plugs.

 

How long has it been sitting? If the fuel is old I wouldn't even bother starting it, you'd likely do more harm than good.

 

I've had three 1st gen R1's and never had a problem with 2nd gear. I put 55k miles on my first 99, the same on my second 99 and 26k miles on my 00. I have a hard time when people say it's a "known problem" because it's not a problem with the bike. It's a problem with how the bike is being shifted. If you pre-load the shift lever and then pull the clutch lever, you will never have a problem. With that being said, look for a bad 2nd gear. I know it's old school but the original R1 was way ahead of it's time and you will have a blast owning it! If you buy it, let us know and I'll give you a short list of pretty cheap upgrades that are well worth it. BTW, where are you located?

Mark

 

I'm not sure how long it's been sitting. I think the guy rode it a good bit in the last few years. I'll check the fluids and all that stuff. I appreciate you guys. I'm from central PA, 40y/o have been riding various different bikes througout the years. I used to have one of those old "thundercat" yzf-600's, it was my first ever "sport-style" bike and i fell in love with that era of Yamaha, so I was really excited to see an R1 off that era for pretty cheap and looking in decent shape.

 

Yeah, the bikes from then were pretty cool. There are days when I wish I still had my old 2000 R1. But we can't keep them all, right?

 

Make sure you look inside the tank for rust. Check under the seat for nests. Take your time and look for any snapped tabs or rusted bolts.

Bike looks good, but why did he paint the rearsets


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So, I ended up making a deal for $2100 and I got the bike! 52,000 miles. No rust in the tank, he kept it inside and had a full tank with stabilizer in it. Starts right up. There are a few issues with it that I think are minor, first the ignition switch is hard to find the right spot to turn it on, but it works. The tach keeps doing the thing where it goes to 8K and back when the ignition is on, already saw a video on a fix on this. The fuel cutoff switch does noting, which is odd. The rear lights are always on, they aren't dim and the brakes don't really make them "light up" any brighter. The high beam is really dim, may just be the bulb, and the horn doesn't work properly, you can hear it click when you hit the button but no sound. I didn't get a chance to ride it though, but the owners father/son seem pretty trustworthy and said there is no problems with the gearing. The kid bought it in 2017 and put 3,000 miles on it in the last 4 years. He didn't wheelie or beat it up, he is young and actually afraid of riding after seeing some people wreck so he's getting rid of it. Overall, I'm excited to get this thing and get the bugs worked out. They live about an hour and forty minutes from me and are willing to deliver the bike to me for $100 since it's winter and I needed to find a way to get it to my house. Any ideas on the top of your heads about these issues would be greatly beneficial. I will also comb the forum for any similar issues for fixes. Thanks!

 

If I'm understanding correctly, for your ignition switch it just sounds like its worn out. Be it either the key or the switch it's self. You will have to explain the fuel cutoff a little more, maybe a picture of what your talking about. Brake lights could be a couple of things. Maybe bad bulbs, or the switch is stuck on. For that you would have to check both front and rear switches, just unplug them one at a time and see if anything changes. Horn might be worn out/dead, would have to just check that to see. You can wire a headlight bulb to it and see if the switch makes the light come on, if so then its just your horn. The headlights on these things are not that great to start with, but it could be weak bulbs, not aimed right, or weak voltage getting to them. You can start with bulbs and go from there, if bulbs don't make a difference then check connectors for corrosion or bad wires.

 

congrats!!!

 

Not sure what you mean by fuel cutoff switch? Petcock? Rear lights are supposed to be on when the key is on. Are they on with the key off? Horns are pretty weak when there is nothing wrong with them. They pop up on eBay once in a while or get an aftermarket. My suggestions for upgrades: Replace your thermoswitch with a Wells sw518. Fan will come on at 190F instead of 220. Plug n play except you need to trim the plastic around the connectors to get the wires connected.

Engine Cooling Fan Switch Niehoff TS25821 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Engine Cooling Fan Switch Niehoff TS25821 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Also, I replaced my clutch diaphragm spring with a Barnett clutch conversion. 3 street and 3 race springs. Clutch will last a long long time.

Pardon Our Interruption...

That's about it.

Mark

 

Engine cutoff switch. And the rear lights are correct and on when the ignition is on, but they don't really get any brighter when the brake is applied. Thank you for the advice!

 

Fuel level sensors are weak on the 98-99. I went through about 4 of them in the early days before I gave up. I ended up soldering in a 900 Ohm resistor and just filled the tank after 150 miles.

Mark

 

Not sure about the cutoff switch? I'd have a go at it with a multimeter and see what's up.

Could be bulbs on your brake lights or brake light switch. When you get the bike, see if it doesn't work with both front and rear brakes.

Mark

 

Got it and took it for a spin, she's fast. No second gear issues so far. It's filthy dirty and loud. Gonna clean it up real good check all the wiring/harnesses etc. I figured out the ignition issue, if i just press forward and turn the key, it works fine. Here it is in my driveway!

 

Here's a link to a quick video overview of the bike.

 

Also found this historical document.

 

If you decide to do a slip on, I might have a polished yosh I might get rid of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If you decide to do a slip on, I might have a polished yosh I might get rid of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might huh... after riding it yesterday, i might just be in the market for one...i kinda like the loud, but i can see it getting tiring. And i bet that Yosh sounds great.

 

horn and lights indicate corrosion from age (resistance due to oxidation). thoroughly clean connections, especially at bulb sockets

seat and mileage tell me you paid too much.

rotating petcock won't shut engine off until...

replace front brake hose with new factory brake line (mandatory because i say so), and only use premium gasoline

 

horn and lights indicate corrosion from age (resistance due to oxidation). thoroughly clean connections, especially at bulb sockets

seat and mileage tell me you paid too much.

rotating petcock won't shut engine off until...

replace front brake hose with new factory brake line (mandatory because i say so), and only use premium gasoline

The headlight is a bad bulb on the right, and the horn is just the horn, the wiring is good. If I push in on the horn when I hit the button, it works...lol I did check the connections, very minimal corrosion.

 

mileage?

 

Pretty high mileage, 52,000. No 2nd gear issue, seems like it wasn't beaten too hard.

 

Looks good then except the missing exhaust and seats ripped.